2003: A Conterno Odyssey; Rose of the Day; Vincent-New Releases; Isole e Olena’s Classic Chianti; Allora, Fontalloro; Coulée de Serrant; Ride the Trockenwelle!; Agathe Bursin’s Magical 2016’s
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Summer Shipping Special:
Midwest, East, & South
For the summer season we are offering UPS Three Day Select Service for the price of UPS Ground for shipments normally traveling 4 or more business days by ground.
Free service upgrade only applies on single orders purchased and shipped during the promotional period. Additional fees will apply to orders held for any reason until after the promotional period and shipped by Three Day Select. Offer not valid on items purchased before the promotional period or on pre-arrival items that arrive after the promotional period ends.
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Conterno 2003
Barolo in its prime drinking window!
In 2003, Roberto Conterno decided to create just one Barolo from the Francia vineyard, the Cascina Francia, thereby including all of the precious Montfortino grapes in the blend. It was a warm year, so the wine is softer and plusher than most vintages, yet showing “very little signs of the challenging growing season” as Antonio Galloni writes after tasting the wine 10 years in bottle.
Galloni goes on to write of the 2003 release that “over the past few vintages Roberto Conterno has produced the best and most consistently outstanding wines in his venerable firm’s long history. The wines he has in barrel amply confirm this very positive trend.”
In Stock Now: No Further Patience Required:
Giacomo Conterno Cascina Francia Barolo DOCG, Piedmont 2003 750ML ($149.95) $128 special, 25 bottles available
June 2014: Antonio Galloni 94 points “The 2003 Barolo Cascina Francia is soft, silky and very nicely balanced, especially in its tannins, where the wine really stands out next to so many peers. Readers should open the 2003 at least an hour in advance to allow the aromatics to open up. This is a very sexy and open young Barolo from Conterno with very little signs of the challenging growing season. Drinking window: 2014-2028.”
October 2007: Antonio Galloni 94 points “The 2003 Barolo Cascina Francia is a remarkable wine for the vintage. this deep, powerful Barolo reveals awesome richness and an almost liqueur-like quality to its fruit that is balanced by the chalky mineral notes that provide freshness on the fin ish and help convey an impression of notable balance. In 2003 there is no Monfortino, and the Cascina Francia surely benefits from the addition of that juice whichis mostly felt in the wine’s depth. Res isting the temptation to harvest too early, Roberto Conterno waited until October 8 to start picking in his Cascina Francia vineyard, long after most producers had already brought the fruit in. He had the benefit of the late September rains that helped restore at least a little freshness to the fruit, and as a result his 2003 Cascina Francia doesn’t have the aggressive tannins that plague so many wines. Simply put, this is a stunning Barolo made all the more notable by the challenging conditions the vintage presented.”
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Rose! Of! The! Day!
Domaine Saint Damien Gigondas Rose, Rhone 2016 750ML ($24.95) $21.90 special, 36+ bottles available
Josh Raynolds–Vinous 91 points “Bright orange-pink. Ripe red berries and blood orange on the fragrant nose. In a warm, fleshy style, offering juicy, nicely concentrated raspberry and orange zest flavors that turn livelier on the back half. Smooth and seamless on the impressively persistent and penetrating finish, which leaves a sappy red berry note behind.”
80% Cinsault (planted in 1970), 20% Grenache. Soil is red clay and broken stones. Vineyard plot located on the lower terraced lands of the Gigondas appellation, at a spot called la Moutte.
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
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Newly Arrived
Vincent’s Pinot Noir
We’re pleased to highlight some of the wines made by Vincent Fritzsche from an assortment of vineyards in the Willamette Valley. A former home winemaker who “went pro” as one of the inaugural members of the Southeast Wine Collective, he outgrew his old home but continues to make compelling wines from a few special vineyards.
His Pinot Noirs are consistently some of the finest (and finest value) we taste. Classical in style, his wines are fermented natively and see no new oak which highlights the terroir of the vineyard and the purity of the fruit. The whites are also made in the same way, utilizing neutral wood and native yeasts. These are some of the most delicious and terroir driven wines coming out of Oregon today, that they’re exceptionally well-priced just adds to our enjoyment. (For you points lovers out there, the 2014’s were reviewed exceptionally well by Vinous and Burghound.)
Vincent Pinot Blanc, Willamette Valley 2015 750ML ($21.95) $18 special
VinopolNote: “Crisp, fresh and citrusy–in a lemon oil way, but with some stone fruit preventing the wine from becoming too lean. This wine reminds us in many ways of Melon de Bourgogne from the Loire. It’s a great wine as an aperitif or with seafood.”
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Vincent Bjornson Vineyard Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills 2015 750ML ($39.95) $33 special
“Bjornson vineyard is higher in the Eola Hills, where there’s red volcanic soil over basalt and the afternoons see coastal winds come over the hill to keep the daytime high temperatures moderate. This year’s Bjornson is brilliant ruby in color, not as dark as usual but with no less intensity. The aroma is piney with a touch of mint mixed in with bright crystalline red berry fruit notes. The flavors echo all that, with a bright, energetic thrust and a strong mineral quality. Bjornson can show a bit like cru Beaujolais when young, with a brushy Gamay quality that’s hard to describe but so delicious and satisfying. I like wines with a bit of edge and nerve, rather than plush but shapeless flavor of more heavy-handed winemaking technique. This wine has all that, and is poised to age well as usual with this site. Two barrels.” – Winery Notes
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Vincent Silvershot Vineyard Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills 2015 750ML ($39.95) $33 special
“Silvershot is the new name for Crowley Station Vineyard, renamed after a trademark dispute in the past year. New name but it’s another classic savory red fruited wine from this cool, windy site on the far southwest part of the Eola Hills. The grapes here were harvest on September 18 at 22.5 brix from own-rooted vines in the oldest part of the vineyard, planted in 2000. (Grapes from the younger west block, picked earlier in September, all went to the Eola-Amity Hills bottling). As with Zenith and Bjornson, the Silvershot was bottled after 18 months in cask with no filtration. It shows some dense but lively cherry fruit flavors and delicate herb and toast notes, finishing with a fine worsted texture. This vineyard always give a pronounced savory character I love, and it’s here again for sure. Two barrels” – Winery Notes
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Vincent Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills 2015 750ML ($29.95) $24 special
“This year’s Eola-Amity Hills bottling is a blend of Bjornson, Zenith, Silvershot and (new to me) Temperance Hill vineyards. The result is a classic expression of my home AVA, with a softer texture than the vineyard wines blended for earlier consumption. Don’t be afraid to hold on to this bottling though – examples going back to my first vintage 2009 are still drinking wonderfully. Bottled last August to capture its youthful freshness and held for spring release. Ten barrels” – Winery Notes
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Isole e Olena
Classic Chianti Classico
“Proprietor Paolo De Marchi has left an indelible and highly personal stamp on Isole e Olena, and all of Chianti Classico for that matter… De Marchi stands apart from many of his colleagues for his vocal opinions and intense dedication to the vineyard above all else. Since taking over his family’s estate… De Marchi has transformed Isole e Olena into a powerhouse.” – Antonio Galloni (Wine Advocate, June 2012)
Isole e Olena was created in the 1950s when the De Marchi family purchased and joined together two hilltop estates “Isole” and “Olena” in the Chianti region. The original Isole portion of the estate was founded in the 1700s as a farm growing a range of goods including grapes and olives. The 50 hectares of top-quality vineyards are on hillsides in Chianti, about 450 meters above sea level.
Paolo de Marchi took over the estate in 1976 and has been the driving force ever since. The estate manages to do what is usually impossible: balance the use of French grapes in the estate to make wines that are still classically Tuscan and also produce varietal wines of non-Tuscan grapes of the highest class.
Cepparello, a wine made from 100% Sangiovese, has long been the estate’s calling card, but everything from the basic Chianti to the Gran Seleczione is among the best in its class. The Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon are also worth paying attention to if you like Bordeaux or wines of California. In short, it’s hard to find a winery, anywhere in the world, that does as many things well as Isole e Olena and we’re excited to showcase the wines for you today.
Isole e Olena Collezione De Marchi Chardonnay Toscana IGT, Tuscany 2014 750ML ($49.95) $39 special, 8 bottles available
Importer note “After many attempts at a white wine from Trebbiano and Malvasia, Paolo decided to use those grapes solely for Vin Santo and in 1987 made his first 100% Chardonnay. The vineyards are a mix of exposures from West, East and some North. Paolo likes to keep the heat accumulation down in the vineyard and extend hand time as long as possible. Harvest occurs in September. It’s fermented in stainless steel then sur-lie aged in French oak barrique, 1/3 new for 10 to 12 months depending on the vintage. Battonage for the first 6 months.”
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Isole e Olena Cepparello Toscana IGT, Tuscany 2013 750ML ($79.95) $69 special, 8 bottles available
Isole e Olena Cepparello Toscana IGT, Tuscany 2013 1.5L ($179.95) $149 special, 6 magnums available
Isole e Olena Cepparello Toscana IGT, Tuscany 2013 3L ($399.95) $333 special, 2 jeroboams available
Antonio Galloni 96 points “The 2013 Cepparello is superb. Polished, silky nuanced and exceptionally beautiful, the 2013 exudes freshness and energy from start to finish. Succulent red cherry, plum, lavender and rose petal are some of the signatures. Aging in French oak shapes the wine nicely without marking it excessively. The purity of the flavors is striking. This is an especially cool, savory Cepparello built on finesse and persistence rather than power. Rain during harvest robbed the wine of some of its breadth. Otherwise, this is a striking Cepparello. I can’t wait to see how it ages.”
This is the lowest listed price for a magnum in the USA today!
Isole e Olena Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG, Tuscany 2006 750ML ($249.95) $189 special, 9 bottles available
Isole e Olena Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG, Tuscany 2006 1.5L ($499.95) $389 special, 5 magnums available
Wine Advocate 97 points “The 2006 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione is a controversial wine and for good reason. Proprietor Paolo De Marchi was initially opposed to the idea of introducing the Gran Selezione category above the Chianti Classico Riserva. But more than a year ago, the Institute of Masters of Wine held a special dinner in Florence and producers were invited to pour only Gran Selezione wines. Paolo had an amazing barrel of Sangiovese put aside for a commemorative wine to celebrate his 30th anniversary as a winemaker. He hoped to dedicate that wine as a special limited release. Because he also wanted to pour something of his at the Masters of Wine dinner, he declassified the wine and re-registered it as a Gran Selezione. This also explains why it is from an older vintage. Most of his peers inaugurated this new category with the 2010 vintage. Only 1,800 bottles were made (of which 500 are put aside for the family’s personal use) and the blend consists of Sangiovese with 12% Cabernet Franc and 8% Syrah. “I love Chianti Classico and I love super Tuscans,” says Paolo De Marchi. “This wine is a crossover of the two.” The wine shows gorgeous ripeness with brooding dark fruit, depth and extreme balance. This is a wine that makes a statement upfront both in terms of the quality of the aromas and its overall integrity and persistency.”
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Isole e Olena Syrah Collezione de Marchi Toscana IGT, Tuscany 2008 750ML ($59.95) $49 special, 36+ bottles available
Antonio Galloni 94 points “The 2008 Syrah Collezione Privata jumps from the glass with expressive, pungent aromatics and waves of super-expressive dark red/black stone fruits. Mint, sage, tobacco, rosemary and plums all develop in the glass, adding further dimensions of complexity. An intensely floral, savory finish laced with lavender, violets, rose petals and spices rounds things out. At six years of age, the 2008 Syrah remains fresh, vibrant and impeccable in its purity. In particular, the interplay of dense fruit and cooler, varietal Syrah notes is compelling.” AG
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Isole e Olena Vin Santo del Chianti Classico, Tuscany 2004 375ML ($59.95) $49 special, 36+ bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 94 points “Deep amber-yellow. Sexy, kaleidoscopic nose combines exotic tropical fruits, chestnut honey, raisin, dried fig, caramel and a musky iodine note. Then sharply delineated and penetrating on the palate in spite of its honeyed sweetness, with superb acidity giving spine to the dried fruit and ripe citrus flavors. This wonderfully vibrant yet thick and rich Vin Santo coats the mouth on the long, smooth finish. Great stuff.” ST
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Felsina Fontalloro
It is almost silly to forget how well Felsina’s wines are made. Every time I open one I am reminded about the quality that keeps people coming back for these wines. The 2012 Felsina Fontalloro is a prime example of a Sangiovese that is built for pure pleasure. I grabbed this for a Sunday dinner with friends who tend to drink new world fruit bombs. I knew this wouldn’t match up to their usual lineup but figured the Fontalloro would be a good pair for braised lamb shank with fresh pasta. The wine spoke of the earth before it spoke of the barrels, which is gratifying, considering the amount of new French oak Felsina buys every year. Currants, dark cherry, crushed herbs and flowers, and a touch of earth came across to me; to my friends, “What did you bring?! This smells amazing!” There was a great balance between the fruit and fresh acidity as well, which really brought the dinner to life. The 2012 is definitely approachable, for most every wine lover. This still has a long life ahead, but is drinking with an exclamation point right now. – Andy
Felsina Berardenga Fontalloro Toscana IGT, Tuscany 2009 750ML ($69.95) $49 special, 18 bottles available
Case-12 Felsina Berardenga Fontalloro Toscana IGT, Tuscany 2009 750ML ($579.95) $519 special, 1 case available
Antonio Galloni 94 points “There is a lot to like in the 2009 Fontalloro (Sangiovese). For starters, the wine is rich, broad and ample on the palate. Hints of tobacco, savory herbs, licorice and menthol all add complexity over time. The over juiciness of the fruit is nicely balanced by clean veins of underlying acidity that give the 2009 much of its freshness. This is another wine endowed with superb balance and class.” AG
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Felsina Berardenga Fontalloro Toscana IGT, Tuscany 2012 750ML ($59.95) $46 special, 21 bottles available
Wine Advocate 94 points “The 2012 Fontalloro (100% Sangiovese) is a stunning expression and delivers the high quality we have come to expect of this celebrated IGT Toscana wine in a less important vintage. Careful work has been done here to ensure the high quality of fruit. The Fontalloro vineyard is located on the border of the Chianti Classico and the Chianti Colli Senesi appellations. Many have called upon Fèlsina to change the wine’s status to Chianti Classico Gran Selezione, but technically it can’t be because of much of the vineyard is located outside the denomination limits. The bouquet is soft and rich with dark fruit and spice. In the mouth, Fontalloro reveals integrated tannins and acidity.”
Antonio Galloni 94 points “Dark red cherry, plum, cinnamon and crushed rock nuances flesh out in the 2012 Fontalloro. Next to most of the other wines in the lineup, the 2012 Fontalloro is floral, perfumed, fresh and vibrant, with gorgeous aromatic lift, silky tannins and lovely overall balance. Fontalloro often opens up before Rancia, as is the case today, but the 2012 also possesses more than enough depth to drink well for a number of years. Still, the sexy, radiant finish makes me think most bottles won’t be around to make old bones. Put simply, the 2012 Fontalloro is an arrestingly beautiful, showy wine built to please. And please it does.”
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
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Coulée de Serrant:
White of Kings and King of White Wines
Both Louis XI and XIV recognized the sublimity of La Coulée de Serrant, as did the monks who first planted the vineyard almost a millennium ago. The wines from this 17-acre plot display an individuality that long ago warranted a 17-acre appellation controlée, like Burgundy in the Loire. Put this property, and the other Savennières vineyards Les Vieux Clos and Clos de la Bergerie, into the care of the Joly family and you have fabulous wine like no other.
Nicolas Joly is considered the high priest of biodynamic winegrowing and winemaking in France, and he has managed his estate according to this uber-organic system since 1984. His are happy, healthy vines. Tasting a Clos de la Coulée de Serrant wine remains a priviledge: history combines with progressive farming in a most beautiful expression of the Chenin Blanc grape, just as nature and mankind intended. The wines are rich and powerful but not too much so—the apotheosis of dry Chenin Blanc. Drink them now with a decant or age them for a few decades, it’s your choice.
Nicolas Joly Vignobles de la Coulee de Serrant ‘Clos de la Coulee de Serrant’ Savennieres, Loire 2014 750ML ($149.95) $119 special, 22 bottles available
Wine Advocate 95+ points “The yellow-golden 2014 Clos de la Coulée de Serrant, a world famous and iconic Chenin with its own appellation (Savennières – Coulée de Serrant AC), opens with a beautifully clear, precise and aromatic bouquet of ripe and dried, lovely concentrated stone and grapefruit, as well as some honey aromas intermixed with crushed crystalline stones and herbal flavors. Highly elegant, clear and vital on the palate, this full-bodied wine is immensely intense but also silky, transparent and finesse-full. The long and stimulating finish is enormously piquant and salty, very compact but in perfect balance. There are dried Mediterranean herbs like thyme along with concentrated apricot and quince flavors in the persistent aftertaste. A great, elegant and very refined Coulée.”
Nicolas Joly Vignobles de la Coulee de Serrant Savennieres La Roche aux Moines ‘Clos de la Bergerie’, Loire 2014 750ML ($79.95) $69 special, 12 bottles available
Wine & Spirits 93 points “Perhaps the least challenging of Joly’s three cuvees from his biodynamic estate, this grows on schist soils with an eastern exposure. It’s also the most synesthetic, presenting its tastes in a sunrise of color, from golden quince to red-hued tannins. It’s pure and honeyed without any sense of sweetness or any notes of oxidation. Bursting with freshness, this is powerful, grand Savennieres.”
Wine Advocate 92+ points “Intensely yellow in color, the 2014 Roche-aux-Moines Clos de la Bergerie has a deep and concentrated bouquet of ripe and stewed stone fruits along with herbal seeds. This wine needs a lot of time to open up and should be decanted for hours. Round, rich and elegant on the palate, with a racy acidity attack, great density and a lively mineral purity and backbone, this is a powerful, firmly structured Chenin; it has a good tannin grip and a long and intense finish. Still somewhat closed and bitter, but the concentration and rich fruit is obvious. Although I didn’t have the chance to follow this bottle over days, I am pretty sure it will become an even more exciting wine with (much) more aeration.”
Nicolas Joly Vignobles de la Coulee de Serrant Savennieres Les Vieux Clos, Loire 2014 750ML ($59.95) $49 special, 6 bottles available
Wine Advocate 93 points “Joly’s golden-yellow 2014 Savennières Les Vieux Clos is pure and elegant on the herbal and flinty nose, where spicy lemon/lemon grass and ripe, concentrated fruit aromas are displayed. Very well defined! On the palate, the 14.5% alcohol comes along in perfect balance: very elegant and finesse-full. since the powerful body is lifted by a piquant acidity, a lovely transparency and finesse, and finally escorted by a dense and lush fruit texture. The finish is very precise, fresh and aromatic, but also full of elegance, salt and stimulation.”
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Dry German Riesling
Ride The Trocken-Wave!
Anyone who’s been following German wine for a while knows about the Trockenwelle, or “dry wave” that’s swept through Germany and brought with it a host of producers focusing on dry wines. The overwhelming demand inside of Germany is for dry Riesling and producers have responded by focusing more and more of their production on wines that are dry.
It’s also important to note that when we say dry, we’re talking about wines which are trocken (dry)—a legal standard that producers have to abide by. If you’re looking for a wine that tastes dry, but with a little more fruit, try a feinherb Riesling—typically these wines are just outside the legal boundary but taste dry.
We wanted to highlight a range of dry German Riesling today, from a variety of regions and pricepoints. Riesling is an incredibly terroir-expressive grape and so wines from the Mosel can be very different (ie: leaner) than wines from the Pfalz or the Rheinhessen. We’re also featuring wines from the excellent value entry-level wines to the GG, or Grosses Gewächs (Grand Cru)—the pinnacle of German dry Riesling. But don’t worry—what you see here is just the tip of the iceberg. Visit our website, www.vinopoliswineshop.com, to see all 267 German Rieslings in stock now—many of them dry!
Mosel:
Peter Lauer Ayler Kupp Fass 2 Riesling, Mosel (Extra Trocken)2015 750ML ($31.95) $27 special, 36+ bottles available
Mosel Fine Wines 89-91 points “This cask sample hints at a rich and round feel of greengage, mirabelle, quince and pear on the nose. The wine is gorgeously elegant and precise on the palate, with a ripe and round feel (the wine has actually gone through some malolactic fermentation). The finish is fully dry and outstandingly long and refined. This is a gorgeous wine in the making if it keeps its promises in the bottle.”
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Selbach-Oster Riesling Trocken, Mosel 2015 750ML ($24.95) $18 special, 36+ bottles available
“This bottling offers a gorgeous nose of pear, melon and white minerals. The wine is nicely fresh and easy on the palate. Bright fruits and herbs bring some pep to the finish of this nice and easy-drinking wine. Now-2018”–Mosel Fine Wines
Winery note “Selbach-Oster Rieslings are not “zeitgeisty” wines that change according to the whims of fashion. Nor are they “made” according to recipe. Though they are deeply delicious, they do not seek to “seduce” with short-term exotic aromas from specially cultured yeasts, aromatic enzymes or ice-cold fermentations. They are true characters, wines with structure, wines that display their heritage, rooted deep into the slate rock like our old vines – many of which are still on their own vinifera roots.”
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Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese Trocken “R”, Mosel 2014 750ML ($34.95) $28 special, 32 bottles available
Wine Advocate 92 points “The 12.5% alcohol 2014 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr R Riesling Spätlese trocken was picked on October 20 — so almost one month later than the regular Spätlese — from 80+ year-old, ungrafted vines in and next to the Rotlay plot, with a higher percentage of well selected botrytis. The wine displays a ripe and intense fruit aroma intermixed with coolish stony and flinty, as well as herbal flavors on the nose. Full-bodied, rich and elegant, with a mouthful of concentrated Riesling fruit, a piquant acidity and minerality, this is an expressive and “big,” ripe yet pure and very terroir-driven Riesling of remarkable complexity and length that can go for up to 15 years.”
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Nahe:
Schlossgut Diel Eierfels Riesling Trocken, Nahe 2015 750ML ($44.95) $33 special, 11 bottles available
Wine Advocate 91+ points “The 2015 Dorsheim Riesling Trocken Eierfels is the negative selection of the Dorsheim grands crus Burgberg and Goldloch. It comes along as a pretty rich and intensely flavored Riesling with spicy/stony notes and ripe fruit aromas. Full-bodied and complex, this is a piquant and salty Riesling with impressive intensity and length. It is pretty accessible already.”
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Weingut Donnhoff Norheimer Dellchen Riesling Grosses Gewachs, Nahe 2014 750ML ($79.95) $69 special, 13 bottles available
Wine Advocate 95 points “Coolish, very clear, subtle but multi-layered on the highly elegant, finesse-full and flinty nose starts the 2014 Riesling Dellchen GG. This is a full-bodied, pure, very elegant, highly complex and frisky Riesling of great finesse and lots of salt. The wine is bone dry, but so intense, pure and mineral… so fine and so intense. This is probably the finest Dellchen I have tasted. Extraordinary! “We have picked the Dellchen earlier than we used to do in former years, when we tended to wait and to wait…” says Helmut Dönnhoff. “In 2014, botrytis forced us to pick earlier and now we are very happy with the result because we aim for clarity and precision.”
John Gilman 94+ points “The 2014 Dellchen GG is another really stunningly focused young wine, with superb aromatic and flavor precision to go along with excellent structural elements and impeccable balance. The bouquet is a mix of grapefruit, tart orange, wild yeasts, plenty of smokiness, a fine base of slate and again, a distinct topnote of lemongrass. On the palate the wine is pure, fullbodied and rock solid at the core, with lovely focus and balance, racy acids and a long, refined and utterly seamless finish. Outstanding juice this year. 2022-2060+.” JG
Weingut Donnhoff Roxheimer Hollenpfad Riesling Trocken, Nahe 2015 750ML ($39.95) $33 special, 9 bottles available
Wine Advocate 93 points “From a steep, south-facing vineyard on red sandstone soils, the 2015 (Roxheimer) Höllenpfad Riesling Trocken opens with warm and generous yellow apple fruit, but also a coolish and piquant sand stone expression with spicy and even peppery lemon flavors. “The grapes are always smaller here than in the Kahlenberg and the berries [are] very intense in their fine fruit aromas,” says Helmut Dönnhoff. The roots can go through the sandstone, which is not the case in the volcanic soils of Niederhausen and Oberhausen. As a result, drought stress is very rare and that makes the Höllenpfad a perfect origin for dry Rieslings. On the palate, this is a generously fruity, but also pure, piquant and finely racy Riesling with lingering salinity and lemony freshness. The wine is dense and generous, but precise, fresh and rather cool instead of warm. It is a gorgeous Riesling that combines the warmth of the northern Nahe, closer to the Rhine river, with the purity and salinity of the Niederhausen/Oberhausen. The finish is pretty, long and aromatic, and the ripe apples remain on the palate as do the stony flavors.”
Rheinhessen:
Weingut Keller Westhofener Kirchspiel RR Riesling, Rheinhessen 2015 750ML ($59.95) $49 special, 36+ bottles available
John Gilman 94 points “There was no 2014 RR bottling from Weingut Keller, but happily, the 2015 vintage allowed for this cuvée and what an amazingly fine wine it is! The bouquet is very pure, very precise and nascently complex, as it soars from the glass in a stunning blend of tart orange, very complex, crystalline minerality, blood orange, petrol, gentle notes of wild yeasts and a topnote of citrus zest. On the palate the wine is fullish, complex and electric in its vibrancy, with a superb core of fruit, great mineral lift on the backend and laser-like focus on the very, very long and utterly refined finish. The best RR vintage I have yet tasted from KP! 2016-2040.” (Mar/Apr 2016)
Weingut Keller Riesling Trocken, Rheinhessen 2016 750ML ($24.95) $21.90 special, 36 bottles available
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Pfalz:
Von Winning Deidesheimer Kalkofen Riesling Grosses Gewachs, Pfalz 2014 750ML ($79.95) $59 special, 6 bottles available
David Schildknecht—Vinous 93 points “Surprisingly floral for a Kalkofen Riesling, this leads with head-turning freesia and lavender perfume, behind which are intimations of white peach and passion fruit that then saturate a polished, almost plush palate. Sweet suggestions of almond paste enhance the mid-palate sense of richness, but brightly juicy white peach and grapefruit serve for consummate refreshment and floral-herbal impingements for invigoration in a seductively sustained finish. The chalk that is part of this site’s namesake may be implicated in its energetic finish, but there is no overt impression of chalkiness let alone austerity to be found here; on the contrary, this is the richest and most winsome of the youthful Von Winning single-vineyard 2014s.”
Wine Advocate 92+ points “The 2014 Deidesheim Kalkofen Riesling trocken GG comes from a plateau above the Grainhübel where the grapes ripen a few days later. The soil is chalky and marly, and delivers a rather discreet but very potent wine that needs more time to develop its talents. The 2014 shows a chalky, powdered nose with fresh lemon flavors and rather white fruit aromas. Full-bodied, very round and elegant on the palate, this is a well balanced Riesling with a Burgundian touch thanks to the stimulating, finesse-full salinity and the okay kiss that also gives this Riesling a very delicate tannin structure. I recommend to store this well structured and juicy wine for another three years.” SR
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Von Winning Kirchenstuck Riesling Grosses Gewachs, Pfalz 2014 750ML ($149.95) $106 special, 12 bottles available
Wine Advocate 96 points “Crushed stones with a dash of lemon juice on the clear, precise, fresh and concentrated nose of the 2014 Forster Kirchenstück Riesling trocken GG lead to a full-bodied, intense, pure, very clear and salty wine with discreet power but great length and finesse. This is purity in its most complex and elegant expression. There is no richness of fruit and no alcohol that tries to impress you; everything here is terroir and subtle winemaking. The wine is cool and almost delicate, and much fresher and stimulating than a Kirchenstück used to be. This von Winning was bottled with less than 12% alcohol and one can surely discuss if a great Kirchenstück needs to have 13% or more of alcohol. The proud price of 140 United States dollars is even more than you have to pay for the prestigious Kirchenstück from Bürklin-Wolf.” SR
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Agathe Bursin’s Newest Wines
Arriving this Fall
Secret Superstar of Alsace
Agathe Bursin is really wonderful producer of Alsatian wines, with a strong following in France, but somehow remains slightly unknown in the US. Her production sells out before it’s even bottled—mostly to private clients in Europe, but a little makes its way over to our shores. Yet when it gets here, sometimes it gets overlooked, because she makes wines that are useful at the table (and are priced as such) instead of being ‘trophy’ wines for collectors to fight over. Part of the reason for her lack of fame might be that she lacks a national importer, though her wines are brokered by Thomas Calder (who also sells Prevost/Bouchard/Pattes Loup/Boulay, etc) which speaks to the quality of the wines.
The Bursin family has been making wines in Alsace for several generations and Agathe has taken the family domaine to new levels. Educated in Burgundy, she worked in Chablis before returning home to the family winery and there is a marked Chablisienne influence on her wines in terms of their clarity of flavor and brightness. All the wines she makes are delicious, and she’s known in Alsace as something of a Sylvaner whisperer, but we’d urge you to check out the entire range!
These wines arrive in the fall and feature a few special 2015’s (her VT and SGN wines, some Pinot Noir) and the range of 2016 whites. 2016 looks to be a really good Alsatian vintage, with wines showing good ripeness but less than some of the extremes that 2015 displayed. Acids are good and the wines will show great freshness (which is also a hallmark of the Bursin style). The 2015 late harvest wines look to be stunners—the vintage allowed for very ripe wines that are stunners now and will age for a long time. It also looks to be the best vintage for Pinot Noir in Alsace since 2009 and potentially better than that.
These are great wines that are starting to get widely recognized for their quality, so if you want to lock down some, this is your chanced.
Arriving in October:
Agathe Bursin L’As de B, Alsace 2016 750ML ($21.95) $17 pre-arrival special
VinopolNote: “This wine comes from the lieu-dit Bollenberg and is made from an assortment of grapes that are interplanted and harvested at the same time. Made from a mix of Riesling, Sylvaner, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, though the exact blend changes depending on the yields in the vintage. This wine is a delightlful representation of all of the things we love about Bursin, at a crazy price for its quality.”
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Domaine Agathe Bursin Pinot Blanc Parad’Aux, Alsace 2016 750ML ($24.95) $20.90 pre-arrival special
VinopolNote: “Classic Alsace Pinot Blanc. Clean, crisp with nice minerality and a touch of nuttiness. This would make an excellent aperitif or a smashing pairing with fish.”
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Domaine Agathe Bursin Pinot Gris Dirstelberg, Alsace 2016 750ML ($27.95) $24 pre-arrival special
VinopolNote: “The Disrstelberg vineyard is mostly composed of pink sandstone and is known as a high quality vineyard for a variety of grapes. The wines from the site tend to be linear and crisp, with good varietal character. Unlike many Alsatian producers, Bursin errs on the side of delicacy and raciness rather than pick too late and allow the wines to become rich and flabby for the sake of “power.”
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Domaine Agathe Bursin Pinot Gris Zinnkoepfle Vendanges Tardives, Alsace Grand Cru 2015 ($69.95) $59 pre-arrival special
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Domaine Agathe Bursin Pinot Gris Zinnkoepfle, Alsace Grand Cru 2016 750ML ($44.95) $36 pre-arrival special
VinopolNote: “The Zinnkoepflé vineyard has been recognized as a top site since the beginning of vine cultivation in Alsace. The road in leading to the vineyard is known as “The Street of Gold” so famed were the wines. The shelly-limestone soils provide for great acidity, so wines from here are always both rich and racy—a rare and impressive combination.”
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Domaine Agathe Bursin Pinot Noir Strangenberg, Alsace 2015 750ML ($44.95) $36 pre-arrival special
Wine Advocate 90-91 points “Picked on September 7/8, macerated for six to eight days and currently ageing in one- to three-year-old pièces from Jean-Claude Ramonet’s Domaine Ramonet in Chassagne-Montachet (Burgundy), the sample of the 2015 Pinot Noir Strangenberg blends the total of all eight barrels that are still unsulfured. (SO2 will be added only two days before the bottling that is scheduled for May 2017.) Tasted at the Domaine in Westhalten in September 2016, the Strangenberg 2015 opens with a deep, fiery and concentrated bouquet of dark ripe fruits along with beautiful spicy aromas. This wine is powerful, warm and concentrated, but also silky, typically fresh and elegant on the palate. This 2015 reveals a lot of power, but also concentration and a very promising structure, and represents an excellent Pinot Noir from one of Alsace’s potential 1ers crus.”
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Domaine Agathe Bursin Riesling Dirstelberg, Alsace 2016 750ML ($26.95) $21.90 pre-arrival special
VinopolNote: “The Disrstelberg vineyard is mostly composed of pink sandstone and is known as a high quality vineyard for a variety of grapes. The wines from the site tend to be linear and crisp, with good varietal character. Unlike many Alsatian producers, Bursin errs on the side of delicacy and raciness rather than pick too late and allow the wines to become rich and flabby for the sake of “power.”
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Domaine Agathe Bursin Riesling Zinnkoepfle Vendanges Tardives, Alsace Grand Cru 2015 750ML ($79.95) $69 pre-arrival special
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Agathe Bursin Riesling Zinnkoepfle, Alsace Grand Cru, 2016 750ML ($44.95) $36 pre-arrival special
VinopolNote: “The Zinnkoepflé vineyard has been recognized as a top site since the beginning of vine cultivation in Alsace. The vineyard sits in a protected area that allows for exceptional sun exposure while limiting risk of botrytis and other problems. As a result, we always see very pure-fruited wines with a lot of finess coming from this site, owing in part to the shelly-limestone soils which provide for great acidity and nerve.”
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Agathe Bursin Sylvaner Eminence Zinnkoepfle, Alsace Grand Cru 2016 750ML ($39.95) $30.90 pre-arrival special
VinopolNote: “Agathe Bursin is known in Alsace as one of the top producers of Sylvaner. This is one of her top wines and provides a compelling reason to pay attention to the grape. Aromatically really interesting with a bright, mineral palate and great texture. This is a wine worth paying attention to.”
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Agathe Bursin Sylvaner Lutzeltal, Alsace 2016 750ML ($24.95) $20.90 pre-arrival special
VinopolNote: “Bursin is known for Sylvaner and this is her entry-level bottling. While it lacks the complexity and intensity of the higher-end wines, it offers great value and is wonderful insight into the house style.”
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Agathe Bursin Gewurztraminer Dirstelberg, Alsace 2016 750ML ($27.95) $24 pre-arrival special
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Agathe Bursin Gewurztraminer Zinnkoepfle Selection de Grains Nobles, Alsace Grand Cru 2015 750ML ($89.95) $79 pre-arrival special
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Agathe Bursin Gewurztraminer Zinnkoepfle Vendanges Tardives, Alsace Grand Cru 2015 750ML ($69.95) $59 pre-arrival special
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Agathe Bursin Gewurztraminer Zinnkoepfle, Alsace Grand Cru 2016 705ML ($44.95) $36 pre-arrival special
VinopolNote: “The Zinnkoepflé vineyard has been recognized as a top site since the beginning of vine cultivation in Alsace. Known especially for Gewürztraminer and Riesling, the vineyard sits in a protected area that allows for exceptional sun exposure while limiting risk of botrytis and other problems. The shelly-limestone soils provide for great acidity, so wines from here are always both rich and racy—a rare and impressive combination.”
Agathe Bursin Muscat Bollenberg, Alsace 2016 750ML 750ML ($29.95) $26 pre-arrival special
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Thanks for reading!