In Today’s Newsletter:
C.V.N.E. Stands for Excellent Rioja
Staff Pick: Love & Squalor WV Gamay 2017
Two Modern Tuscan Stunners
Pingus – Ribera del Duero’s Finest
Domaine Ott – Pride of Provence
Castello di Ama Gran Selezione
Trending Wines
Collector’s Corner
Clos de la Chapelle’s Monopole
Featured New Arrival
C.V.N.E. Stands for Excellent Rioja
CVNE ‘Imperial’ Reserva, Rioja DOCa 2015 750ML ($49.95) $39 special
James Suckling 95 points “A tight and linear red now with very long and direct palate that is driven and intense. Medium to full body, bright blackberry and mineral character. Just a baby now. Give it three to four years to soften. A beauty. Try in 2021.”
Josh Raynolds-Vinous 94 points “Saturated, brilliant ruby. Explosive, seductively perfumed aromas of dark berry preserves, cherry-cola, incense, floral oils and vanilla, along with suggestions of mocha, licorice and woodsmoke. Sweet and seamless in the mouth, offering intense blackberry, cherry preserve and violet pastille flavors and allspice, coconut and star anise flourishes. Distinctly rich yet energetic as well, finishing with resonating floral and spice character, well-integrated tannins and superb mineral-driven persistence.”
Luis Gutierrez-Wine Advocate 93 points “The analysis of the 2015 Imperial Reserva is almost identical to those of the Viña Real Reserva from the same vintage, but the profile is quite different. This is the more serious Haro-style red, and it has slightly darker fruit and a medium to full-bodied palate with very good grip, powerful but with great balance. The blend is also similar—85% Tempranillo and the rest split between Graciano, Mazuelo and Garnacha—but these are grapes from Rioja Alta fermented with yeasts selected from their own vineyards. The wine matured in French and American oak barrels for two years. The wines are different, but the quality level is similar. 150,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in June 2018.”
Wine Spectator 93 points “This balanced red shows muscle without losing grace. Black cherry, leafy, forest floor and toasty notes mingle over well-integrated tannins in a silky texture, with fresh acidity giving way to a floral, minerally finish. Not showy, but harmonious. Drink now through 2030. 12,500 cases made, 1,500 cases imported.”
CVNE ‘Monopole’ Blanco, Rioja DOCa 2018 750ML ($17.95) $14 special
Luis Gutierrez-Wine Advocate 89 points “There are two versions of the dry white, the young, fresh and fruit-driven 2018 Monopole and another one they call “clásico,” which is released later and has some Manzanilla de Sanlúcar added to it. This fruity white is also floral and light and was produced with Viura (a.k.a. Macabeo) grapes that fermented in stainless steel at low temperature with dry yeasts to keep the primary aromas. It’s from a fresh year with less ripeness and alcohol (perhaps more noticeable in the reds), and this continues with the profile of previous years. The source of the grapes is quite stable, so variations are due to the climate of the year. 400,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in December 2018.”
CVNE ‘Monopole Clasico’ Blanco, Rioja DOCa 2015 750ML ($29.95) $24 special
James Suckling 93 points “This wine is so unique. A rich and vivid white with sliced apple, pear and dried pineapple character. Hints of salt. Full body, very flavorful. Lovely finish. 15% Manzanilla in blend. Drink now.”
Luis Gutierrez-Wine Advocate 92 points “The second vintage of the recovered traditional white, the 2015 Monopole Clásico is Viura with a good dollop of Manzanilla Sherry from Sanlúcar that adds biological notes and hints of nuts and spices. 2015 is the best vintage in recent years, with good quality and quantity, quite homogeneous wines from an early harvest. This wine matured in well-seasoned, neutral 300-, 400- and 500-liter oak barrels for eight months and was then blended with the Manzanilla. This is the way Monopole was always produced decades ago. CVNE’s classical winemaker, Ezequiel García “El Brujo,” died in August 2017, and they added a black band on a corner of the label as an homage to him. It’s quite lean and at first you don’t notice the biological aromas much; in wines like this that character tends to grow with time in bottle, and it does appear with time in the glass as the wine breathes. It’s subtle and with some sharpness and chalky sensations on the palate, very tasty and long. This should develop nicely in bottle. 30,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in July 2017.”
Staff Pick
Staff Pick: Love & Squalor WV Gamay 2017
Two Modern Tuscan Stunners
Gagliole ‘Valletta’ Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT 2015 750ML ($39.95) $24 special
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 93 points “A blend of Sangiovese and Merlot, the 2015 Valletta is a deep and velvety wine with a bright load of dark fruit intensity. The Merlot (from Panzano in Chianti) makes a big contribution to the lasting effects of this wine. That grape—especially in a warm vintage like 2015—adds richness and a velvety nature. The bouquet is redolent of dark fruit that is carefully intermingled with sweet spice. The Sangiovese (from Castellina in Chianti) contributes to the wine’s fresh and bright mouthfeel.”
Pingus – Ribera del Duero’s Finest
Also available—Hacienda Monasterio, Sissek’s original project:
Bodegas Hacienda Monasterio, Ribera del Duero 2015 750ML ($54.95) $45 special
Case-12 Bodegas Hacienda Monasterio, Ribera del Duero 2015 750ML ($599.95) $479 special (that’s only $39.92/bottle—the lowest listed price in the USA today!)
Jeb Dunnuck 95 points “Made with guidance from Peter Sisseck, the 2015 Crianza from Hacienda Monasterio is a blockbuster effort that’s a blend of 75% Tinto Fino, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the balance Merlot, all of which spent 18 months in 30% new French oak. Its deep ruby/purple color is followed by terrific notes of blueberries, violets, graphite, and crushed rocks. Full-bodied, deep, concentrated, and elegant, with a traditional style and building tannin, it’s incredible that they produce upward of 30,000 cases of this beauty. It’s no doubt beautiful today yet will keep for a decade or more. Even at $50, it’s a smoking value!”
Wine Advocate 94 points “The flagship Crianza is now simply referred to as 2015 Hacienda Monasterio. This is their biggest production, with some 181,630 bottles in this classical and powerful vintage where the secret was an early harvest to keep the acidity and freshness in the wine and keep the alcoholic degree under control. It’s mostly Tempranillo, with 10% each Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, fermented with indigenous yeasts and with long and soft macerations. It matured for some 18 months in French oak barrels, 25% of them new (a percentage that has been gradually lowered in the last few years). It has a balanced nose, with nuance and subtleness, with the oak nicely folded into the fruit, incipient perfume, and even if young, you can almost see where it can go in bottle. The foreign varieties are not really noticed; they are very integrated. The palate has terrific balance and refined tannins. There is no heat or excess ripening whatsoever. For a moment, I thought I was tasting the 2014. This is one of the best and most widely available wines from Ribera del Duero. It should evolve nicely in bottle.”
Castello di Ama Gran Selezione
This Janasse and Beaucastel alum is making some stunning wines in Ventoux.
Saint Jean du Barroux L’Argile, Ventoux 2016 750ML ($29.95) $26 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Decanter 94 points “Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, Cinsault. Yields 20hl/ha, hand-harvested and 75% destemmed. Light reduction on the nose calls for a decant. Gently serrated tannic weave, with taut, juicy acidity and a saline dimension that spreads across the palate like an electric current. Real intensity of searching fruit flavour and a textured finish. It’s about texture and feel at this stage – aromatic fireworks to follow in time. drinking Window 2019 – 2026.”
Importer Note “After working at Chateau Beaucastel and Domaine de la Janasse Philippe Gimel purchased 12.5 hectares of vines in the unheralded Ventoux. After years of working in abject penury devoting his energies into organic farming, tending his vines by hand and working (and living!) out of a makeshift cellar Philippe is beginning to get the attention that his talent and hard work deserves. The rocky clay soils of his vineyards are devoted to producing a wine he calls l’Argile which is a blend of Grenache and Syrah with small proportions of Carignan and Cinsault. Thoroughly old school, he ferments and ages his wine in concrete tanks for a very long time before bottling – in the cases of L’Argile, at least two years. Naturally he also waits to release the wines after an additional time in bottle; when he feels they are drinking well.”
#7 Wine Spectator Wine Of The Year 2017
Chateau Canon la Gaffeliere, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 2014 750ML ($119.95) $99 special, 36 bottles in stock now
Antonio Galloni 95+ points “One of the wines of the vintage, the 2014 Canon La Gaffelière is explosive, lifted and aristocratic in its breeding. Bright Cabernet Franc aromatics give the wine its signature lift and precision. Raspberry jam, rose petal, mint, blood orange, tobacco and pomegranate build slowly on the palate, leading to a super-expressive, finely knit finish. Powerful yet also impeccably refined, the 2014 has it all. The 2014 is 55 % Merlot, 37 % Cabernet Franc and 8 % Cabernet Sauvignon. Don’t miss it. Tasted two times.”
Wine Spectator 95 points “This cuts a wide swath, with mouthwatering tobacco and warm ganache notes leading the way, followed by a wave of fig, blackberry and black currant preserves. Shows remarkable definition already, even though the structure is strident. Tempting now, but just put this in the back of the cellar. Best from 2020 through 2035. 4,083 cases made.”
One of the best wines from Ventoux, this is a stunner, especially under $40.
Chateau Pesquie Ventoux Artemia 2016 750ML ($49.95) $39 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Case-6 Chateau Pesquie Ventoux Artemia, Rhone 2016 750ML ($299.95) $219 special (that’s only $36.50/bottle—the lowest listed price in the USA today!)
Decanter-World Wine Awards 97 points “This is stacked with the black fruits of the region, plus violets, thyme, lavender, dried herbs and tannins that are ripe and of the appropriate proportion. Still very youthful and will flourish with time in bottle. Modern and very classy indeed. Genius wine, very long and intense, its purity magnificent.”
Jeb Dunnuck 94 points “Made from equal parts Syrah and Grenache, the 2016 Ventoux Cuvee Artemia is another terrific vintage for this cuvee. Still young, backward and unevolved, it has tons of potential in its blue fruits, graphite, crushed rock and violet-tinged aromas and flavors. Medium to full-bodied, concentrated, with terrific purity of fruit, and fine, building tannin, it needs 2-3 years of bottle age and will keep for a decade or more.”
Wine Advocate 94 points “A 50-50 blend of Grenache and Syrah, aged in 50% new oak, the 2016 Ventoux Artemia is a tremendous effort. It combines blueberries and stone fruit with cedary notes and then underscores those attractive aromas and flavors with a full-bodied, velvety texture and a bright, crisp finish. Lovely stuff.”
Points:Price, this is a stunning deal.
Domaine Petroni Vin de Corse Rouge, Corsica 2016 750ML ($16.95) $14 special
Case-12 Domaine Petroni Vin de Corse Rouge, Corsica 2016 750ML ($179.95) $149 special (that’s only $12.42/bottle—the lowest listed price in the USA today!)
Jeb Dunnuck 94 points “Also a mix of Niellucciu and Syrah, the 2016 Corse Domaine Petroni came from granite soils along the Mediterranean and was raised all in demi-muids. This medium to full-bodied beauty certainly makes an impression. It has sensational minerality as well as notes of black cherries, blackberries, spice, and flowers. Deep, layered, incredibly elegant, and seamless, with the tension and vibrancy common from granite soils, it should evolve for well over a decade.”
C.V.N.E. Stands for Excellent Rioja
Staff Pick: Love & Squalor WV Gamay 2017
Two Modern Tuscan Stunners
Pingus – Ribera del Duero’s Finest
Domaine Ott – Pride of Provence
Castello di Ama Gran Selezione
Trending Wines
Collector’s Corner
Clos de la Chapelle’s Monopole
Featured New Arrival
C.V.N.E. Stands for Excellent Rioja
Looking for absolutely classical Rioja (white and red) at outstanding pricing? Look for four letters: CVNE. CVNE (or Cune) was founded in 1879 by brothers Eusebio and Raimundo Real de Asúa after Raimundo moved to the town of Haro (also of Lopez de Heredia fame) for his health. They set up the winery partially as a negociant, much like Bordeaux. Fast forward to today and the family (down the female line) is on its fifth generation of owning and operating the house—still making excellent, classical wines at more than fair prices.
The ‘Monopole’ blanco was the first registered white wine brand in Spain and though it once was made with the addition of sherry, today it is all stainless steel aged white wine made from the Viura grape. The Monopole “Classico,” recently introduced, is a return to that old-school, mixed white style.
The two reds have quite the following and deliver not only in flavor but also in value. We’re featuring two reds today, the 2013 Reserva and the 2015 Imperial. Both wines are beautiful bottles to drink now, but the Imperial will age gracefully for a decade or so if you have the patience. We’ve got great pricing on these wines and look forward to putting them in your hands and glasses.
Just Arrived, In Stock Now:
CVNE ‘Cune’ Reserva, Rioja DOCa 2013 750ML ($27.95) $21.90 special
Case-12 CVNE ‘Cune’ Reserva, Rioja DOCa 2013 750ML ($279.95) $219 special (that’s only $18.25/bottle—the lowest listed price in the USA today!)
Josh Raynolds-Vinous 90 points “Brilliant ruby. Energetic, mineral-accented raspberry and cherry aromas reveal hints of rose, vanilla and woodsmoke. Silky and expansive on entry, offering nicely concentrated red fruit flavors that gain energy and a smoky mineral quality with air. Floral pastille and cracked pepper notes linger on the juicy, focused finish, which shows very good clarity and sneaky, fine-grained tannins. Much of the juice that would normally go into the high-end Imperial bottlings wound up in here this vintage.”
The ‘Monopole’ blanco was the first registered white wine brand in Spain and though it once was made with the addition of sherry, today it is all stainless steel aged white wine made from the Viura grape. The Monopole “Classico,” recently introduced, is a return to that old-school, mixed white style.
The two reds have quite the following and deliver not only in flavor but also in value. We’re featuring two reds today, the 2013 Reserva and the 2015 Imperial. Both wines are beautiful bottles to drink now, but the Imperial will age gracefully for a decade or so if you have the patience. We’ve got great pricing on these wines and look forward to putting them in your hands and glasses.
Just Arrived, In Stock Now:
CVNE ‘Cune’ Reserva, Rioja DOCa 2013 750ML ($27.95) $21.90 special
Case-12 CVNE ‘Cune’ Reserva, Rioja DOCa 2013 750ML ($279.95) $219 special (that’s only $18.25/bottle—the lowest listed price in the USA today!)
Josh Raynolds-Vinous 90 points “Brilliant ruby. Energetic, mineral-accented raspberry and cherry aromas reveal hints of rose, vanilla and woodsmoke. Silky and expansive on entry, offering nicely concentrated red fruit flavors that gain energy and a smoky mineral quality with air. Floral pastille and cracked pepper notes linger on the juicy, focused finish, which shows very good clarity and sneaky, fine-grained tannins. Much of the juice that would normally go into the high-end Imperial bottlings wound up in here this vintage.”
This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast today!
CVNE ‘Imperial’ Reserva, Rioja DOCa 2015 750ML ($49.95) $39 special
James Suckling 95 points “A tight and linear red now with very long and direct palate that is driven and intense. Medium to full body, bright blackberry and mineral character. Just a baby now. Give it three to four years to soften. A beauty. Try in 2021.”
Josh Raynolds-Vinous 94 points “Saturated, brilliant ruby. Explosive, seductively perfumed aromas of dark berry preserves, cherry-cola, incense, floral oils and vanilla, along with suggestions of mocha, licorice and woodsmoke. Sweet and seamless in the mouth, offering intense blackberry, cherry preserve and violet pastille flavors and allspice, coconut and star anise flourishes. Distinctly rich yet energetic as well, finishing with resonating floral and spice character, well-integrated tannins and superb mineral-driven persistence.”
Luis Gutierrez-Wine Advocate 93 points “The analysis of the 2015 Imperial Reserva is almost identical to those of the Viña Real Reserva from the same vintage, but the profile is quite different. This is the more serious Haro-style red, and it has slightly darker fruit and a medium to full-bodied palate with very good grip, powerful but with great balance. The blend is also similar—85% Tempranillo and the rest split between Graciano, Mazuelo and Garnacha—but these are grapes from Rioja Alta fermented with yeasts selected from their own vineyards. The wine matured in French and American oak barrels for two years. The wines are different, but the quality level is similar. 150,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in June 2018.”
Wine Spectator 93 points “This balanced red shows muscle without losing grace. Black cherry, leafy, forest floor and toasty notes mingle over well-integrated tannins in a silky texture, with fresh acidity giving way to a floral, minerally finish. Not showy, but harmonious. Drink now through 2030. 12,500 cases made, 1,500 cases imported.”
CVNE ‘Monopole’ Blanco, Rioja DOCa 2018 750ML ($17.95) $14 special
Luis Gutierrez-Wine Advocate 89 points “There are two versions of the dry white, the young, fresh and fruit-driven 2018 Monopole and another one they call “clásico,” which is released later and has some Manzanilla de Sanlúcar added to it. This fruity white is also floral and light and was produced with Viura (a.k.a. Macabeo) grapes that fermented in stainless steel at low temperature with dry yeasts to keep the primary aromas. It’s from a fresh year with less ripeness and alcohol (perhaps more noticeable in the reds), and this continues with the profile of previous years. The source of the grapes is quite stable, so variations are due to the climate of the year. 400,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in December 2018.”
This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast today!
CVNE ‘Monopole Clasico’ Blanco, Rioja DOCa 2015 750ML ($29.95) $24 special
James Suckling 93 points “This wine is so unique. A rich and vivid white with sliced apple, pear and dried pineapple character. Hints of salt. Full body, very flavorful. Lovely finish. 15% Manzanilla in blend. Drink now.”
Luis Gutierrez-Wine Advocate 92 points “The second vintage of the recovered traditional white, the 2015 Monopole Clásico is Viura with a good dollop of Manzanilla Sherry from Sanlúcar that adds biological notes and hints of nuts and spices. 2015 is the best vintage in recent years, with good quality and quantity, quite homogeneous wines from an early harvest. This wine matured in well-seasoned, neutral 300-, 400- and 500-liter oak barrels for eight months and was then blended with the Manzanilla. This is the way Monopole was always produced decades ago. CVNE’s classical winemaker, Ezequiel García “El Brujo,” died in August 2017, and they added a black band on a corner of the label as an homage to him. It’s quite lean and at first you don’t notice the biological aromas much; in wines like this that character tends to grow with time in bottle, and it does appear with time in the glass as the wine breathes. It’s subtle and with some sharpness and chalky sensations on the palate, very tasty and long. This should develop nicely in bottle. 30,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in July 2017.”
Staff Pick
Staff Pick: Love & Squalor WV Gamay 2017
Andy:
There are wines that I just don’t want to love; the label on this one is too cutesy, that one is too indulgent, I’m deeply involved in a one-sided grudge against the winemaker… who knows why we have preconceived prejudices? The Love & Squalor WV Gamay is a wine I tasted with heavy skepticism, thinking that it wouldn’t live up to the Cru Beaujolais that I love so much. It definitely exceeded my expectations and had me reconsidering what to look for in Oregon Gamay.
The combination of light floral notes, dusty cocoa, and cherry was reminiscent of both Fleurie and Julienas, but on the palate the spice and backbone was more like a Morgon. Soft but abundant tannins help frame the flavors and hold the wine together giving the impression that the wine will age nicely for the next few years. The winemaker Matt Berson is putting in the hard work and makes a great bottle here.
I love the fact that this wine is raising the bar for Gamay in the Valley. With the warmer vintages and more Gamay popping up across the valley, I think there could be some gems coming through the shop. In the meantime, I will be happy to enjoy the wine I hate to love.
In Stock Now:
Love & Squalor Gamay Noir, Willamette Valley 2017 750ML ($27.95) $24 special
Winery Note “We have long been thinking about adding an additional red varietal to the Love & Squalor lineup, in 2014 we added Gamay noir. While it is not widely planted in the Willamette Valley, Gamay noir seems the perfect candidate. It is a cousin of Pinot noir and is found planted alongside it in Burgundy, our touchstone region. There are older plantings of Gamay in Oregon dating to 1987, and there have been additional plantings in every decade since. It is currently finding wider popularity among growers and winemakers, and we expect there will be a healthy supply of Gamay noir grapes in the near future”
There are wines that I just don’t want to love; the label on this one is too cutesy, that one is too indulgent, I’m deeply involved in a one-sided grudge against the winemaker… who knows why we have preconceived prejudices? The Love & Squalor WV Gamay is a wine I tasted with heavy skepticism, thinking that it wouldn’t live up to the Cru Beaujolais that I love so much. It definitely exceeded my expectations and had me reconsidering what to look for in Oregon Gamay.
The combination of light floral notes, dusty cocoa, and cherry was reminiscent of both Fleurie and Julienas, but on the palate the spice and backbone was more like a Morgon. Soft but abundant tannins help frame the flavors and hold the wine together giving the impression that the wine will age nicely for the next few years. The winemaker Matt Berson is putting in the hard work and makes a great bottle here.
I love the fact that this wine is raising the bar for Gamay in the Valley. With the warmer vintages and more Gamay popping up across the valley, I think there could be some gems coming through the shop. In the meantime, I will be happy to enjoy the wine I hate to love.
In Stock Now:
Love & Squalor Gamay Noir, Willamette Valley 2017 750ML ($27.95) $24 special
Winery Note “We have long been thinking about adding an additional red varietal to the Love & Squalor lineup, in 2014 we added Gamay noir. While it is not widely planted in the Willamette Valley, Gamay noir seems the perfect candidate. It is a cousin of Pinot noir and is found planted alongside it in Burgundy, our touchstone region. There are older plantings of Gamay in Oregon dating to 1987, and there have been additional plantings in every decade since. It is currently finding wider popularity among growers and winemakers, and we expect there will be a healthy supply of Gamay noir grapes in the near future”
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
Two Modern Tuscan Stunners
New this week are two superb Tuscan reds from Gagliole Gallule, their 2016 Chianti Classico Riserva and their 2015 La Valletta.
The Chianti Classico Riserva is archetypal Sangiovese (100% in fact) from a historic estate, with overt floral and herbal notes, and dark fruits complimenting classic red cherry. Deep in color, yet restrained on the palate, this is the rare Tuscan wine that packs enough non-fruit nuance to satisfy traditionalists, while offering enough ripeness for those who are generally drawn to more modern styles.
La Valletta is also black fruit driven, with a mix of spice (licorice and chocolate) complimenting classic herbal aromas. Generous and powerful thanks to a healthy percentage of Merlot, this is the perfect bottle for those who typically stick to the new world to mix things up and tip their toes in Italy.
Both are arriving Friday, and with very limited quantities on the Riserva, and a killer price (best in the country in fact) on La Valletta, we expect these wines to move!
Arriving Friday:
Gagliole Gallule, Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2016 750ML ($99.95) $69 pre-arrival special
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 95+ points “Extremely fine tuned and precise, the 2016 Chianti Classico Riserva Gallule offers depth and a long succession of delicate nuances with dark fruit, balsam herb, licorice and freshly tilled potting soil. This is complete and beautiful wine executed in a very classic style. This wine is all about the smaller details, best accentuated with a Porcini mushroom risotto. The Sangiovese grapes are harvested from an ancient terraced vineyard in Castellina in Chianti. A precious few 2,000 bottles were made.”
James Suckling 95 points “This is a great Chianti Classico with an overload of floral aromas, such as violets and rose petals, in addition to blackcurrants, tar, asphalt and vanilla. Full-bodied but very subtle and restrained on the palate with a finely woven web of tannins and a long, taut finish. Drink from 2023.”
The Chianti Classico Riserva is archetypal Sangiovese (100% in fact) from a historic estate, with overt floral and herbal notes, and dark fruits complimenting classic red cherry. Deep in color, yet restrained on the palate, this is the rare Tuscan wine that packs enough non-fruit nuance to satisfy traditionalists, while offering enough ripeness for those who are generally drawn to more modern styles.
La Valletta is also black fruit driven, with a mix of spice (licorice and chocolate) complimenting classic herbal aromas. Generous and powerful thanks to a healthy percentage of Merlot, this is the perfect bottle for those who typically stick to the new world to mix things up and tip their toes in Italy.
Both are arriving Friday, and with very limited quantities on the Riserva, and a killer price (best in the country in fact) on La Valletta, we expect these wines to move!
Arriving Friday:
Gagliole Gallule, Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2016 750ML ($99.95) $69 pre-arrival special
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 95+ points “Extremely fine tuned and precise, the 2016 Chianti Classico Riserva Gallule offers depth and a long succession of delicate nuances with dark fruit, balsam herb, licorice and freshly tilled potting soil. This is complete and beautiful wine executed in a very classic style. This wine is all about the smaller details, best accentuated with a Porcini mushroom risotto. The Sangiovese grapes are harvested from an ancient terraced vineyard in Castellina in Chianti. A precious few 2,000 bottles were made.”
James Suckling 95 points “This is a great Chianti Classico with an overload of floral aromas, such as violets and rose petals, in addition to blackcurrants, tar, asphalt and vanilla. Full-bodied but very subtle and restrained on the palate with a finely woven web of tannins and a long, taut finish. Drink from 2023.”
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
Gagliole ‘Valletta’ Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT 2015 750ML ($39.95) $24 special
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 93 points “A blend of Sangiovese and Merlot, the 2015 Valletta is a deep and velvety wine with a bright load of dark fruit intensity. The Merlot (from Panzano in Chianti) makes a big contribution to the lasting effects of this wine. That grape—especially in a warm vintage like 2015—adds richness and a velvety nature. The bouquet is redolent of dark fruit that is carefully intermingled with sweet spice. The Sangiovese (from Castellina in Chianti) contributes to the wine’s fresh and bright mouthfeel.”
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
Pingus – Ribera del Duero’s Finest
Peter Sisseck has had a dramatic run during his career in the wine business. In 1993, he arrived in Spain to manage a new project, Hacienda Monasterio. Originally from Denmark, Peter fell in love with Ribera del Duero’s twisted vines and found several ancient vineyards that inspired him to make his own wine. From the beginning, Peter’s vision was to push old-vine Tempranillo to its upper limits, spending the first years pruning the gnarled old vines back to health.
In 1995, he opened Dominio de Pingus, and released the first vintage to rave reviews, making Pingus a true benchmark wine, known and admired wherever great wine is discussed. Peter’s tiny production of fewer than 500 cases of Pingus, which now sells for roughly $700/ bottle, comes from three parcels of ancient, head-pruned Tempranillo vines.
Fortunately for us, he also makes two other wines from these dramatic vineyards. The Flor de Pingus, our focus today, is sourced from a number of small parcels located in the La Horra zone, vines that are all over 35 years of age and have been farmed biodynamically since 2005. These wines are fermented in large wooden vats and, once in cask, mostly left alone until they are bottled without fining or filtration.
Since 2001, he has employed biodynamic viticulture to produce healthier vineyards, balancing decadent richness with a rare sense of elegance. Simple discussion of techniques cannot begin to explain the final product, a wine Robert Parker has called “extraordinary” and “one of the most outstanding wines produced in Spain.”
Flor de Pingus is a stunning wine—not as far off the $500 “main” version as the price tags would have you think. It’s consistently one of the best, most profound bottles of Tempranillo under $100, with a track record for aging and the capability to wow any crowd.
In Stock Now:
Dominio de Pingus ‘Flor de Pingus’, Ribera del Duero 2016 750ML ($99.95) $85 special
James Suckling 96 points “Chalky and intense with so much blackberry character. Some smoke, too. Full body. Firm and chewy with lots of fruit, but a tight and linear finish. Chewy and intense. Needs a year or two to open, but already a joy. Better after 2021.”
Luis Gutierrez 93-95 points “I caught the 2016 Flor de Pingus days before it was due for bottling, so what I tasted was the final blend (done after the time in barrel was over) that was just settling in tank before being bottled. The paradox of 2016 is that it was a warm year, but the resulting wines have great freshness, which also happened in 1996 (one of my favorite old vintages of Pingus). The yields were higher, which brought more freshness to the wines; and the wines are airier and not as compact as, for example, 2015. In fact, what they have been doing for some time now is to work in viticulture—the pruning and what you do with the canopy—to achieve slightly higher yields and get the plants to balance, because as you increase the yields, the ripening takes longer. Even though it’s young, this shows amazing perfume that should bloom with a year in bottle. This has all the signals to become one of the greatest vintages of Flor de Pingus. They expect to fill some 105,000 bottles in June 2018. I already look forward to tasting this in my next round, after it has spent a year or more in bottle.”
In 1995, he opened Dominio de Pingus, and released the first vintage to rave reviews, making Pingus a true benchmark wine, known and admired wherever great wine is discussed. Peter’s tiny production of fewer than 500 cases of Pingus, which now sells for roughly $700/ bottle, comes from three parcels of ancient, head-pruned Tempranillo vines.
Fortunately for us, he also makes two other wines from these dramatic vineyards. The Flor de Pingus, our focus today, is sourced from a number of small parcels located in the La Horra zone, vines that are all over 35 years of age and have been farmed biodynamically since 2005. These wines are fermented in large wooden vats and, once in cask, mostly left alone until they are bottled without fining or filtration.
Since 2001, he has employed biodynamic viticulture to produce healthier vineyards, balancing decadent richness with a rare sense of elegance. Simple discussion of techniques cannot begin to explain the final product, a wine Robert Parker has called “extraordinary” and “one of the most outstanding wines produced in Spain.”
Flor de Pingus is a stunning wine—not as far off the $500 “main” version as the price tags would have you think. It’s consistently one of the best, most profound bottles of Tempranillo under $100, with a track record for aging and the capability to wow any crowd.
In Stock Now:
Dominio de Pingus ‘Flor de Pingus’, Ribera del Duero 2016 750ML ($99.95) $85 special
James Suckling 96 points “Chalky and intense with so much blackberry character. Some smoke, too. Full body. Firm and chewy with lots of fruit, but a tight and linear finish. Chewy and intense. Needs a year or two to open, but already a joy. Better after 2021.”
Luis Gutierrez 93-95 points “I caught the 2016 Flor de Pingus days before it was due for bottling, so what I tasted was the final blend (done after the time in barrel was over) that was just settling in tank before being bottled. The paradox of 2016 is that it was a warm year, but the resulting wines have great freshness, which also happened in 1996 (one of my favorite old vintages of Pingus). The yields were higher, which brought more freshness to the wines; and the wines are airier and not as compact as, for example, 2015. In fact, what they have been doing for some time now is to work in viticulture—the pruning and what you do with the canopy—to achieve slightly higher yields and get the plants to balance, because as you increase the yields, the ripening takes longer. Even though it’s young, this shows amazing perfume that should bloom with a year in bottle. This has all the signals to become one of the greatest vintages of Flor de Pingus. They expect to fill some 105,000 bottles in June 2018. I already look forward to tasting this in my next round, after it has spent a year or more in bottle.”
This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast today!
Also available—Hacienda Monasterio, Sissek’s original project:
Bodegas Hacienda Monasterio, Ribera del Duero 2015 750ML ($54.95) $45 special
Case-12 Bodegas Hacienda Monasterio, Ribera del Duero 2015 750ML ($599.95) $479 special (that’s only $39.92/bottle—the lowest listed price in the USA today!)
Jeb Dunnuck 95 points “Made with guidance from Peter Sisseck, the 2015 Crianza from Hacienda Monasterio is a blockbuster effort that’s a blend of 75% Tinto Fino, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the balance Merlot, all of which spent 18 months in 30% new French oak. Its deep ruby/purple color is followed by terrific notes of blueberries, violets, graphite, and crushed rocks. Full-bodied, deep, concentrated, and elegant, with a traditional style and building tannin, it’s incredible that they produce upward of 30,000 cases of this beauty. It’s no doubt beautiful today yet will keep for a decade or more. Even at $50, it’s a smoking value!”
Wine Advocate 94 points “The flagship Crianza is now simply referred to as 2015 Hacienda Monasterio. This is their biggest production, with some 181,630 bottles in this classical and powerful vintage where the secret was an early harvest to keep the acidity and freshness in the wine and keep the alcoholic degree under control. It’s mostly Tempranillo, with 10% each Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, fermented with indigenous yeasts and with long and soft macerations. It matured for some 18 months in French oak barrels, 25% of them new (a percentage that has been gradually lowered in the last few years). It has a balanced nose, with nuance and subtleness, with the oak nicely folded into the fruit, incipient perfume, and even if young, you can almost see where it can go in bottle. The foreign varieties are not really noticed; they are very integrated. The palate has terrific balance and refined tannins. There is no heat or excess ripening whatsoever. For a moment, I thought I was tasting the 2014. This is one of the best and most widely available wines from Ribera del Duero. It should evolve nicely in bottle.”
Domaine Ott
Pride of Provence
Pride of Provence
Domaines Ott is one of the two flagship producers of rosé in Provence and a true icon for top-tier, luxury rosé. Within European wine circles, they are considered to the finest producers of rosé out there—better even than Tempier. Here in the US, we tend to view things the other way round, but when you taste Ott’s top rosés, you understand the argument.
Ott is an estate that’s focused on excellence above all, with a clarity in their focus that’s unique to only a handful of rosé producers. They own three estates across Provence, all producing unique wines that are top of their class. The wine we’re offering today is from their legendary Chateau Romassan in Bandol—perhaps the pinnacle of rosé wines. As you’d expect with Ott, these are fantastic wines with the high price tags they deserve.
In Stock Now
Domaines Ott Chateau Romassan Bandol Rose, Provence 2018 750ML ($59.95) $54.50 special
Case-6 Domaines Ott Chateau Romassan Bandol Rose, Provence 2018 750ML ($359.95) $299 special (that’s only $49.83/bottle!)
Wine Spectator 90 points “A smoky note is cast through the poached apricot, ripe melon and white cherry notes of this broad, fresh rosé, with anise, wet stone and herb elements detailing the creamy finish. Mourvèdre, Cinsault and Grenache. Drink now. 23,750 cases made, 2,500 cases imported.”
Ott is an estate that’s focused on excellence above all, with a clarity in their focus that’s unique to only a handful of rosé producers. They own three estates across Provence, all producing unique wines that are top of their class. The wine we’re offering today is from their legendary Chateau Romassan in Bandol—perhaps the pinnacle of rosé wines. As you’d expect with Ott, these are fantastic wines with the high price tags they deserve.
In Stock Now
Domaines Ott Chateau Romassan Bandol Rose, Provence 2018 750ML ($59.95) $54.50 special
Case-6 Domaines Ott Chateau Romassan Bandol Rose, Provence 2018 750ML ($359.95) $299 special (that’s only $49.83/bottle!)
Wine Spectator 90 points “A smoky note is cast through the poached apricot, ripe melon and white cherry notes of this broad, fresh rosé, with anise, wet stone and herb elements detailing the creamy finish. Mourvèdre, Cinsault and Grenache. Drink now. 23,750 cases made, 2,500 cases imported.”
Castello di Ama Gran Selezione
Castello di Ama has emerged as a true First Growth of Chianti. Modern and focused on quality in both the vineyard and in the cellar, Castello di Ama makes rich, textural Chiantis that rival the biggest names both in Chianti and more broadly across Tuscany (including Brunello).
One notable signal of Castello di Ama’s commitment to quality has been their championing of the new Chianti Gran Selezione DOCG. A level above Riserva, the designation requires longer aging and is designed to let producers highlight their tip-top wines from Sangiovese. Castello di Ama’s San Lorenzo is the one we’re highlighting today.
The 2011 was a best-seller here at Vinopolis and the 2014 is a follow up that outclasses for drinkability and aromatics. This is a stunning bottle of wine that’s got everything you’d want out of a top Tuscan wine. Full-bodied, rich and surprisingly silky for this stage in its young life, this is really special stuff. Given all that, you might expect it to be $70-95, in line with Brunello of similar quality. Instead, it’s under $40 by the case—a stunning value. Stocking up is a must if you love the wines of Tuscany.
In Stock Now:
Castello di Ama ‘San Lorenzo’, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2014 750ML ($59.95) $44 special
Case-12 Castello di Ama ‘San Lorenzo’, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2014 750ML ($599.95) $469 special (that’s only $39.08/bottle—the lowest listed price in the USA today!)
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 93+ points “The 2014 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione San Lorenzo flaunts its importance. It boasts confidence and an outward-looking personality that comes as a refreshing surprise. Like all Gran Selezione wines, it is released 30 months after January 1st following the harvest. That means it still has a few more months to go before it hits the market. This expression of Sangiovese shows depth and power with ripe fruit tones of cherry and forest berry. Like many of the other high profile wines I preview-tasted from the difficult 2014 vintage, I am delighted and surprised by the elegant and soft nature of the mature tannins. The wine’s finish offers bright freshness with layers of dark fruit, wet earth and forest floor.”
Wine Enthusiast 93 points “Aromas of exotic spice, pipe tobacco, woodland berry and a whiff of French oak take center stage on this fragrant, elegant red. The racy, ethereal palate delivers tart red cherry, tart pomegranate, cinnamon and vanilla framed in taut fine-grained tannins and vibrant acidity. Drink 2019–2026.”
James Suckling 93 points “This is extremely tangy with plenty of chocolate and lemon character and hints of cedar, too. Medium body, bright acidity and chocolatey aftertaste. Very refined and well-crafted for a 2014. Drink now.”
One notable signal of Castello di Ama’s commitment to quality has been their championing of the new Chianti Gran Selezione DOCG. A level above Riserva, the designation requires longer aging and is designed to let producers highlight their tip-top wines from Sangiovese. Castello di Ama’s San Lorenzo is the one we’re highlighting today.
The 2011 was a best-seller here at Vinopolis and the 2014 is a follow up that outclasses for drinkability and aromatics. This is a stunning bottle of wine that’s got everything you’d want out of a top Tuscan wine. Full-bodied, rich and surprisingly silky for this stage in its young life, this is really special stuff. Given all that, you might expect it to be $70-95, in line with Brunello of similar quality. Instead, it’s under $40 by the case—a stunning value. Stocking up is a must if you love the wines of Tuscany.
In Stock Now:
Castello di Ama ‘San Lorenzo’, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2014 750ML ($59.95) $44 special
Case-12 Castello di Ama ‘San Lorenzo’, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2014 750ML ($599.95) $469 special (that’s only $39.08/bottle—the lowest listed price in the USA today!)
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 93+ points “The 2014 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione San Lorenzo flaunts its importance. It boasts confidence and an outward-looking personality that comes as a refreshing surprise. Like all Gran Selezione wines, it is released 30 months after January 1st following the harvest. That means it still has a few more months to go before it hits the market. This expression of Sangiovese shows depth and power with ripe fruit tones of cherry and forest berry. Like many of the other high profile wines I preview-tasted from the difficult 2014 vintage, I am delighted and surprised by the elegant and soft nature of the mature tannins. The wine’s finish offers bright freshness with layers of dark fruit, wet earth and forest floor.”
Wine Enthusiast 93 points “Aromas of exotic spice, pipe tobacco, woodland berry and a whiff of French oak take center stage on this fragrant, elegant red. The racy, ethereal palate delivers tart red cherry, tart pomegranate, cinnamon and vanilla framed in taut fine-grained tannins and vibrant acidity. Drink 2019–2026.”
James Suckling 93 points “This is extremely tangy with plenty of chocolate and lemon character and hints of cedar, too. Medium body, bright acidity and chocolatey aftertaste. Very refined and well-crafted for a 2014. Drink now.”
Trending Wines
This is a beautiful, powerful wine that is everything we love about ’16 in Tuscany.
Piaggia Carmignano Riserva, Tuscany 2016 750ML ($49.95) $39 special, 29 bottles in stock now
Importer Note “The Carmignano Riserva is the flagship wine of Piaggia, first made by Mauro Vannucci in 1991. All of the grapes are from the family’s 50 year old vines in 2.5 hectares in the Piaggia cru near Pogetto, over clay and galestro soils on a south-west facing exposure at 250 meters above sea level. Made from 70% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc (the French varieties were propagated from cuttings made at Chateau Lafite Rothschild in Pauillac). Fermentation on the skins lasts up to 4 weeks with indigenous yeasts. Aging occurs in French oak (no more than 10% new) for 24 months. The wine is racked occasionally during aging but is otherwise unfined and unfiltered prior to bottling. The wine rests six months in bottle before release. Approximately 2500 cases produced annually.”
Winery Note “Carmignano Riserva Piaggia, the winery’s standard-bearer, is the result of rigorous selection in an old vineyard near Poggetto, where the grapes make high quality wines that enhance the characteristics of the appellation to the full. The Riserva Piaggia is our modern interpretation of Carmignano, a wine that is made giving special attention to the finest detail: nothing is left to chance, either in the vineyard or in the cellar, because we believe our grapes deserve particular care and attention and because we want to offer the consumer a thrill that tells of the beauty of our vineyards and the aromas of our land. The Piaggia Riserva is a wine that can be aged for many years while maintaining its organoleptic qualities intact and can liven up the tables of the most demanding consumers all over the world.”
Piaggia Carmignano Riserva, Tuscany 2016 750ML ($49.95) $39 special, 29 bottles in stock now
Importer Note “The Carmignano Riserva is the flagship wine of Piaggia, first made by Mauro Vannucci in 1991. All of the grapes are from the family’s 50 year old vines in 2.5 hectares in the Piaggia cru near Pogetto, over clay and galestro soils on a south-west facing exposure at 250 meters above sea level. Made from 70% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc (the French varieties were propagated from cuttings made at Chateau Lafite Rothschild in Pauillac). Fermentation on the skins lasts up to 4 weeks with indigenous yeasts. Aging occurs in French oak (no more than 10% new) for 24 months. The wine is racked occasionally during aging but is otherwise unfined and unfiltered prior to bottling. The wine rests six months in bottle before release. Approximately 2500 cases produced annually.”
Winery Note “Carmignano Riserva Piaggia, the winery’s standard-bearer, is the result of rigorous selection in an old vineyard near Poggetto, where the grapes make high quality wines that enhance the characteristics of the appellation to the full. The Riserva Piaggia is our modern interpretation of Carmignano, a wine that is made giving special attention to the finest detail: nothing is left to chance, either in the vineyard or in the cellar, because we believe our grapes deserve particular care and attention and because we want to offer the consumer a thrill that tells of the beauty of our vineyards and the aromas of our land. The Piaggia Riserva is a wine that can be aged for many years while maintaining its organoleptic qualities intact and can liven up the tables of the most demanding consumers all over the world.”
This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast today!
This Janasse and Beaucastel alum is making some stunning wines in Ventoux.
Saint Jean du Barroux L’Argile, Ventoux 2016 750ML ($29.95) $26 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Decanter 94 points “Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, Cinsault. Yields 20hl/ha, hand-harvested and 75% destemmed. Light reduction on the nose calls for a decant. Gently serrated tannic weave, with taut, juicy acidity and a saline dimension that spreads across the palate like an electric current. Real intensity of searching fruit flavour and a textured finish. It’s about texture and feel at this stage – aromatic fireworks to follow in time. drinking Window 2019 – 2026.”
Importer Note “After working at Chateau Beaucastel and Domaine de la Janasse Philippe Gimel purchased 12.5 hectares of vines in the unheralded Ventoux. After years of working in abject penury devoting his energies into organic farming, tending his vines by hand and working (and living!) out of a makeshift cellar Philippe is beginning to get the attention that his talent and hard work deserves. The rocky clay soils of his vineyards are devoted to producing a wine he calls l’Argile which is a blend of Grenache and Syrah with small proportions of Carignan and Cinsault. Thoroughly old school, he ferments and ages his wine in concrete tanks for a very long time before bottling – in the cases of L’Argile, at least two years. Naturally he also waits to release the wines after an additional time in bottle; when he feels they are drinking well.”
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
The average price is $29
The average price is $29
#7 Wine Spectator Wine Of The Year 2017
Chateau Canon la Gaffeliere, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 2014 750ML ($119.95) $99 special, 36 bottles in stock now
Antonio Galloni 95+ points “One of the wines of the vintage, the 2014 Canon La Gaffelière is explosive, lifted and aristocratic in its breeding. Bright Cabernet Franc aromatics give the wine its signature lift and precision. Raspberry jam, rose petal, mint, blood orange, tobacco and pomegranate build slowly on the palate, leading to a super-expressive, finely knit finish. Powerful yet also impeccably refined, the 2014 has it all. The 2014 is 55 % Merlot, 37 % Cabernet Franc and 8 % Cabernet Sauvignon. Don’t miss it. Tasted two times.”
Wine Spectator 95 points “This cuts a wide swath, with mouthwatering tobacco and warm ganache notes leading the way, followed by a wave of fig, blackberry and black currant preserves. Shows remarkable definition already, even though the structure is strident. Tempting now, but just put this in the back of the cellar. Best from 2020 through 2035. 4,083 cases made.”
One of the best wines from Ventoux, this is a stunner, especially under $40.
Chateau Pesquie Ventoux Artemia 2016 750ML ($49.95) $39 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Case-6 Chateau Pesquie Ventoux Artemia, Rhone 2016 750ML ($299.95) $219 special (that’s only $36.50/bottle—the lowest listed price in the USA today!)
Decanter-World Wine Awards 97 points “This is stacked with the black fruits of the region, plus violets, thyme, lavender, dried herbs and tannins that are ripe and of the appropriate proportion. Still very youthful and will flourish with time in bottle. Modern and very classy indeed. Genius wine, very long and intense, its purity magnificent.”
Jeb Dunnuck 94 points “Made from equal parts Syrah and Grenache, the 2016 Ventoux Cuvee Artemia is another terrific vintage for this cuvee. Still young, backward and unevolved, it has tons of potential in its blue fruits, graphite, crushed rock and violet-tinged aromas and flavors. Medium to full-bodied, concentrated, with terrific purity of fruit, and fine, building tannin, it needs 2-3 years of bottle age and will keep for a decade or more.”
Wine Advocate 94 points “A 50-50 blend of Grenache and Syrah, aged in 50% new oak, the 2016 Ventoux Artemia is a tremendous effort. It combines blueberries and stone fruit with cedary notes and then underscores those attractive aromas and flavors with a full-bodied, velvety texture and a bright, crisp finish. Lovely stuff.”
Points:Price, this is a stunning deal.
Domaine Petroni Vin de Corse Rouge, Corsica 2016 750ML ($16.95) $14 special
Case-12 Domaine Petroni Vin de Corse Rouge, Corsica 2016 750ML ($179.95) $149 special (that’s only $12.42/bottle—the lowest listed price in the USA today!)
Jeb Dunnuck 94 points “Also a mix of Niellucciu and Syrah, the 2016 Corse Domaine Petroni came from granite soils along the Mediterranean and was raised all in demi-muids. This medium to full-bodied beauty certainly makes an impression. It has sensational minerality as well as notes of black cherries, blackberries, spice, and flowers. Deep, layered, incredibly elegant, and seamless, with the tension and vibrancy common from granite soils, it should evolve for well over a decade.”
Collector’s Corner
Clos de la Chapelle’s Monopole
Clos de la Chapelle’s Monopole
The monopoles of Burgundy are often very exceptional vineyards. Bottlings like Rousseau’s Clos du Ruchottes, Mugnier’s Marechale, DRC’s La Tache are monuments to the power and grandeur of Burgundy. Likewise, when your domaine shares a name with your best vineyard, it bodes well for the quality of wines. From humble estates like Domaine de la Romanée-Conti to Domaine Pousse d’Or and our featured winery, Domaine Clos de la Chapelle, the vineyard that provides the namesake is very special indeeds. IN the case of Clos de la Chapelle, that terroir is very special indeed.
The Clos de la Chapelle monopole was always considered to be one of the premier terroirs in Volnay—in fact, there are records of Mr. Fermentation, Louis Pasteur, buying 50 bottles of the 1858 but for years the potential of the land was buried under a string of less than ideal winemakers. That changed in 2011, when Mark O’Connell bought the domaine and its monopole in Volnay.
He has poured money and time into elevating it from an historic, yet underperforming, producer with excellent holdings to one of the elite domaines in the Cote de Beaune. The winery now owns land in an array of the top vineyard sites in Volnay, Pommard and Corton and makes truly excellent renditions of each—with moderate whole cluster use, small amounts of new oak and brilliantly balanced ripeness.
The crown jewel of their estate is the Clos de la Chapelle, though. It’s a brilliantly situated premier cru in Volnay, right next to the Clos de la Bousse d’Or. In top vintages, it should (and now does) compete with top wines from D’Angerville, Lafon and Lafarge as a top bottling in Volnay. Right now, the pricing doesn’t correspond to the quality of the wine, but it’s only a matter of time before that changes.
Arriving Friday:
Domaine Clos de la Chapelle ‘Clos de la Chapelle’, Volnay Premier Cru 2017 750ML ($149.95) $119 special, 23 bottles in stock now
John Gilman 94+ points “The Clos de la Chapelle monopole has quickly become one of Volnay’s most elegant bottlings and the 2017 vintage is one of my absolute favorite vintages so far from Mark’s flagship terroir. The nose here is beautifully complex and transparent right out of the blocks, offering a very refined blend of plums, red and black cherries, raw cocoa, gamebird, a touch of fresh nutmeg, beautifully complex and understated fresh herb tones, a gorgeous base of chalky minerality, gentle smokiness and a discreet framing of cedary oak. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied, nascently complex and absolutely defined by its soil element, with a lovely core of fruit, ripe, seamless tannins, good acids and outstanding length and grip on the youthful and very, very promising finish. I have adored this bottling since the very first vintage, but it seems to me that the 2017 has taken the level of complexity and transparency here up another level, though the wine is qualitatively still about the same as it has been since its debut vintage of 2010. It is just finer, more transparent and ultimately just a hair more pleasing to an old Burgundy hand like me this year! This will be approachable in another six or seven years, due to its exquisite balance, but I would try to not touch a bottle for at least a decade, as this wine is built a little bit along the lines of one of Frédéric Lafarge’s top Volnays and it is going to be so much better to drink at age twenty or thirty than it will be at age seven or eight! 2030-2085+”
Burghound 92 points “Here the wood treatment is no longer subtle as the toast and menthol characters stop just short of dominating the otherwise fresh and pretty rose petal and lavender-suffused aromas of red cherry and raspberry. The lilting and ultra-refined flavors possess a lovely sense of underlying tension before concluding in a lacy, balanced and sneaky long finish where the tannins are firm but beautifully well-integrated. Note that my rating assumes that the wood will eventually integrate as it’s not a background element at present.”
Other Wines In Stock Now and Arriving Friday:
The Clos de la Chapelle monopole was always considered to be one of the premier terroirs in Volnay—in fact, there are records of Mr. Fermentation, Louis Pasteur, buying 50 bottles of the 1858 but for years the potential of the land was buried under a string of less than ideal winemakers. That changed in 2011, when Mark O’Connell bought the domaine and its monopole in Volnay.
He has poured money and time into elevating it from an historic, yet underperforming, producer with excellent holdings to one of the elite domaines in the Cote de Beaune. The winery now owns land in an array of the top vineyard sites in Volnay, Pommard and Corton and makes truly excellent renditions of each—with moderate whole cluster use, small amounts of new oak and brilliantly balanced ripeness.
The crown jewel of their estate is the Clos de la Chapelle, though. It’s a brilliantly situated premier cru in Volnay, right next to the Clos de la Bousse d’Or. In top vintages, it should (and now does) compete with top wines from D’Angerville, Lafon and Lafarge as a top bottling in Volnay. Right now, the pricing doesn’t correspond to the quality of the wine, but it’s only a matter of time before that changes.
Arriving Friday:
Domaine Clos de la Chapelle ‘Clos de la Chapelle’, Volnay Premier Cru 2017 750ML ($149.95) $119 special, 23 bottles in stock now
John Gilman 94+ points “The Clos de la Chapelle monopole has quickly become one of Volnay’s most elegant bottlings and the 2017 vintage is one of my absolute favorite vintages so far from Mark’s flagship terroir. The nose here is beautifully complex and transparent right out of the blocks, offering a very refined blend of plums, red and black cherries, raw cocoa, gamebird, a touch of fresh nutmeg, beautifully complex and understated fresh herb tones, a gorgeous base of chalky minerality, gentle smokiness and a discreet framing of cedary oak. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied, nascently complex and absolutely defined by its soil element, with a lovely core of fruit, ripe, seamless tannins, good acids and outstanding length and grip on the youthful and very, very promising finish. I have adored this bottling since the very first vintage, but it seems to me that the 2017 has taken the level of complexity and transparency here up another level, though the wine is qualitatively still about the same as it has been since its debut vintage of 2010. It is just finer, more transparent and ultimately just a hair more pleasing to an old Burgundy hand like me this year! This will be approachable in another six or seven years, due to its exquisite balance, but I would try to not touch a bottle for at least a decade, as this wine is built a little bit along the lines of one of Frédéric Lafarge’s top Volnays and it is going to be so much better to drink at age twenty or thirty than it will be at age seven or eight! 2030-2085+”
Burghound 92 points “Here the wood treatment is no longer subtle as the toast and menthol characters stop just short of dominating the otherwise fresh and pretty rose petal and lavender-suffused aromas of red cherry and raspberry. The lilting and ultra-refined flavors possess a lovely sense of underlying tension before concluding in a lacy, balanced and sneaky long finish where the tannins are firm but beautifully well-integrated. Note that my rating assumes that the wood will eventually integrate as it’s not a background element at present.”
Other Wines In Stock Now and Arriving Friday:
Thanks for reading!