Midweek Newsletter (5-12-2021)

After the explosive popularity of our exclusive Evening Land/Brasserie 19 offer last year, we jumped at the chance to offer another exclusive wine from Rajat Parr’s Sta. Rita Hills winery, Sandhi. Oregon wine fans may best know Parr for his Willamette Valley winery Evening Land and their pioneering Seven Springs vineyard. Some years before signing on to Evening Land, Parr’s founded Sandhi, an elite, small production winery that highlights the terroirs of Santa Barbara County. He and co-founder Sashi Moorman eschew extremes of ripeness, oak, or alcohol, instead crafting wines of elegance and restraint. Vineyard sources for the Sandhi lineup include the legendary cool climate Bien Nacido, best known by the single vineyard bottlings produced by the Bien Nacido estate, Au Bon Climat, and Qupe Winery, and the world-classic, historic Sanford & Benedict. 

This Chardonnay is a barrel selection from these illustrious vineyards. It was crafted with the wine director at one of SF’s finest restaurants, Zuni Café. We knew it would be a charming and food-friendly wine, but we were stunned by the quality when we tasted a sample bottle last week. Fans of Evening Land will be dazzled by the beauty and elegance through a Californian lens, fans of Sandhi will be impressed by the price. 

This is an exclusive deal and, like our Brasserie 19 offer folks still ask about, when it’s gone it’s gone for good. 

Newly Arrived:

Sandhi Zuni Cafe Chardonnay, Santa Barbara County 2016 750ML ($34.95) $21.90 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Case-12 Sandhi Zuni Cafe Chardonnay, Santa Barbara County 2016 750ML (399.95) $239 special (that’s only $19.92/bottle!)
From the winery: “If you’ve ever sat at San Francisco’s iconic Zuni Café with a plate of oysters in front of you while you wait for the iconic whole roast chicken, you may have had a glass or two of this collaboration between longtime friends Rajat Parr of Sandhi and Zuni wine director Thierry Lovato.  The wine is a barrel selection from some of Sandhi’s iconic Sta. Rita Hills sites, (think Mt. Carmel, Sanford & Benedict) with enough own-rooted, 1973 Wente selection Bien Nacido Chardonnay blended in to warrant a Santa Barbara County designation. Add to that the favorable 2016 vintage in which a very warm spring and early summer gave way to cool nights and moderate daytime temperatures in July & August.  These conditions allowed the medium-sized crop to mature perfectly with small berries in pristine condition and yield a remarkably balanced wine with fine depth and intensity.”

This is the only listing in the USA today!

Kruger Rumpf is a consistent staff favorite here at Vinopolis, and justifiably so. Sitting at the most northerly point of the Nahe, one of the world’s new favorite German wine regions they have been growing wine grapes since 1708. Much like the rest of the wine industry their grapes were sold to a regional cooperative and vinified on a mass scale, until Stefan Rumpf began their estate program in 1984. Their estate holdings now encompass just under 124 acres in both the Nahe and Reinhessen, the majority planted to Riesling. This embrace of innovation has continued into the next generation, with Georg Rumpf transitioning the estate to organic farming practices and spearheading a reduced spray program. Also members of the VDP, an invite-only consortium of German producers largely considered the best in the country (There are less than 200 nationwide) they have clearly not let their size interfere with the quality of their wines.

At Vinopolis we carry a dizzying array of their wines, the majority of them Riesling’s from their various estate holdings. The top off-dry wine from the estate comes from the awkwardly named “Dautenpflänzer” from near the town of Munster. This means that the label reads “Münsterer Dautenpflänzer”—a stereotype of a German name if we ever saw one. In house, we often call it the “MD” if you aren’t feeling up to testing your pronunciation skills. The Dautenpflänzer is a prime Grand Cru site of the lower Nahe, a place that yields wines of power and resonance, and Kruger-Rumpf is the primary (and best) landholder.Their top dry wine comes from the Abtei , Im Pitterberg, and Burgberg vineyards, which are more suited to the production of bright, dry bottlings than the Dautenpflänzer. Their “1937” is a single-block bottling of the Abtei vineyard’s oldest and steepest section. Despite the vine age and fantastic quality, it’s just half the price of similar unicorn wines (think Carl Loewen’s “1896”). Furthermore, the Burgberg is one of the top GG sites in the upper Nahe, tiny and impossibly steep, and the Kruger-Rumpf version shows off the classicism and elegance of the site. In addition we also carry their Scheurebe, a crossing of Riesling that has declined to less than 840 acres in the entire country (that’s only .8% of total vineyard area)

Highlights In Stock Now from Kruger-Rumpf

Kruger-Rumpf Abtei ‘1937’ Riesling Trocken, Nahe 2018 750ML ($41.95) $36 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Grapelive 94-96 points “The 2018 barrel sample of Kruger-Rumpf’s Abtei 1937 was stunningly gorgeous with brilliant details, ripe extract density, vivid mineral tones and vibrant acidity showing a purity and vitality of youth, but with the complexity and length of its old vine material. Georg Rumpf has crafted a Trocken beauty here with layers of delicacy and substance. This juice is on par with almost any GG, making it an incredible value already. Be sure to book your allocation of this ultra-limited bottling from Terry These and importer Skurnik Wines. You will not be disappointed, I know I will be hustling to get some myself. The regular Abtei offering is one of my new favorite Nahe Rieslings and while I love all the latest Kruger-Rumpf wines, especially from the Grosse Lage: Münsterer Dautenpflänzer, Münsterer im Pitterberg and Dorsheimer Burgberg, as well as exotic Rumpf’s Scheurebe plus their off dry Kabinett, Feinherb and wonderfully balanced Spatlese(s) I have become obsessed with the Bingerbrücker Abtei im Ruppertsberg vineyard and wines. This ’18 starts with subtle aromatic charm with orange blossom, rosewater, flinty stones, salt lick and quinces before thrilling the palate with energy and white peach, tangerine, lime intensity, verbena, mint tea and tart green apple. This light/medium dry Riesling is brisk and racy, at first but gains depth and builds with air in the glass adding some leesy texture, it is totally thrilling and will only get better with bottle age. Terry Theise adds that, Kuger-Rumpf’s vineyards are farmed sustainably; bees are kept nearby to facilitate pollination and aid in overall bio-diversity. Periodically sheep are allowed to roam the vines helping to control underbrush. All vineyards are hand harvested to ensure that only optimally ripe grapes are selected. Stefan believed that “you can’t improve wine in the cellar, only make it worse…” and Georg has continued his cellar work with this philosophy in mind, which to me shows in wines like this fantastic Abtei.”

This is the only listing in the USA today!

Kruger-Rumpf Dorsheimer Burgberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs, Nahe 2018 750ML ($59.95) $49 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Grapelive 94+ points “Coming from a tiny incredibly steep Grand Cru site, the Burgberg Vineyard, that is set on volcanic and quartz soils near Munster in the village of Dorsheim. The Kruger Rumpf Burgberg GG is one of the most exciting wines of vintage at this small winery… It is fantastically mineral-driven dry Riesling. This latest set of wines, especially the Rieslings, from Georg Rumpf and his family are some of the best yet from this estate. The GG’s and the Premier Cru Trockens are gorgeous wines. No one is going to want to miss these 2018 Nahe offerings, especially the Pitterberg GG, the Abtei Erste Lage 1937 old vine, one of my secret favorites and this beautifully detailed Burgberg GG. Rumpf has turned to mostly all organic practices, and the Burgberg parcel is farmed organic. [He] prefers to do natural fermentations, or Sponti, with his Cru wines with the GG’s getting less aging in large cask, Stuckfass, to allow less reduction and enhance generosity, while retraining freshness and vitality in the wines. [It] shows here in this barrel sample of Burgberg… These Kruger-Rumpf GG’s are some of the best values out there, they really deserve much more attention, as do the lesser bottlings and their wildly tasty Scheurebe, which is one of the best examples in Germany. The Kruger-Rumpf winery, which dates back to the 1790’s, is focused on purity and the expression of the distinctive terroirs in the family’s holdings, but only began making estate labeled wines in 1984 when Georg’s dad Stefan began crafting small production bottlings. Now, mostly retired Stefan has turned things over to his sons Georg and Philipp, who are continuing the traditions here with a renewed energy and technical skill. [Their work] impresses Terry Theise, their importer, who considers Kruger-Rumpf one of best under the radar estates in the region. [Theise] notes that Kruger-Rumpf is innovative and is always striving to reach new levels of quality. I visited Kruger-Rumpf in the fall of 2016 at harvest time and was thrilled with the stylish wines I found and was blown away with the individual vineyards they farm and the hard work they have been putting in the restore the Abtei site. The iron rich volcanic and quartz influenced 2018 Burgberg GG starts with white flowers, stone fruits and vibrant citrus before expansion on the medium full palate with layers of lime/tangerine, apricot, green apple, papaya, bitter pit white peach and white cherry fruits along with steely form, spearmint, verbena, mouthwatering saline, exotic spices and subtle leesy elements. This is going to be a legendary wine and is already showing Georg’s signature finesse and vinous personality. It has masses of potential and its delicacy is utterly delicious! There’s a lot to admire at Kruger-Rumpf these days and this crisp 2018 Burgberg is a stunning effort that gains with air in the glass and will more so with a few years in bottle.”

This is the only listing in the USA today!

Kruger-Rumpf Munsterer Pittersberg Riesling Spatlese GK, Nahe 2018 750ML ($49.95) $39 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
David Schildknecht-Vinous 95 points “Picked at the end of October but with minimal botrytis, this certainly stands in magnificent contradiction to my vintage generalization that picking past the middle of that month was not advantageous. Unlike its counterpart form the Dautenpflänzer, this was raised in cask, and was allowed to ferment to a lower level of residual sugar. It comes off as a riper, richer sibling of the corresponding Im Pitterberg Riesling Kabinett, its gloss merging with creaminess, yet with fresh white peach and lime juiciness complementing ripe quince and serving for animation and refreshment. The finish is unexpectedly electrifying in its vibrancy and mouthwateringly saline, and gains stimulating counterpoint from peach kernel piquancy, peach fuzz prickle and a crystalline sense of stone-showering mineral impingement. (If there is a second, “regular” Im Pitterberg Spätlese from this vintage, I am not aware of it.)”

 

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
The next best price is $49.99

Grant:
The McMinville AVA is one of the Willamette Valley’s more ignored growing areas, often passed up in favor of the riper styles seen in her sisters Eola-Amity and Dundee. The proximity to the Coast Range mountains, higher elevation and extensive forest cover make for acid and botanical driven Pinot Noir even in warm vintages like 2016. The Day wines interpretation of Momtazi vineyard is along that vein, but is one of the best examples of the vintage I’ve come across. Highly expressive aromas combine the AVA’s characteristic pine, mossy wood and turned loam with a spectacular black fruited character usually found in Californian style pinot noir. There is a mesmerizing juxtaposition at play between the lighter body and the high acid/tannin balance in a way that’s classic Oregon Pinot Noir. Overall fruit character includes some ripe strawberry, orange peel and bing cherries with aromas of cinnamon, clove and cedar. In line with the natural winemaking style of Day, and the minimal input practiced by Momtazi there is minimal oak influence to allow for pure varietal expression. The use of whole cluster inclusion makes for a tannin profile not unlike a black tea from Assam, also contributing to a long finish of Portobello mushroom and dried raspberries.    

Day Wines Momtazi Vineyard Pinot Noir, McMinnville 2016 750ML ($53.95) Was $33, Now $28 Super Special, 36+ bottles in stock now
John Gilman 93 points “The 2016 Momtazi Vineyard bottling of pinot noir from Day Wines is the ripest of these 2016s, as it comes in at fourteen percent octane. It is beautifully black fruity on the nose (as all the examples from Momtazi have been that I have been fortunate enough to taste), offering up scents of black plum, sweet dark berry, black tea, balsam bough, a beautiful base of soil tones, chicory, gentle spice tones and a bit of cedar. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and beautifully balanced, with a fine core of fruit, great mineral drive and grip, ripe, well-integrated tannins and a long, tangy and promising finish. While this is the ripest of the 2016 pinots from Brianne Day, it is no less pure or precise and is a great bottle in the making. 2024-2055.”
Josh Raynolds – Vinous 92 points “Limpid red. A highly aromatic bouquet evokes fresh dark berries and baking spices, along with smoky mineral and musky earth overtones. Juicy and broad on the palate, offering alluringly sweet black raspberry, cherry, rose pastille and spicecake flavors that deepen steadily with air. Delivers a suave blend of power and energy and finishes with finely woven tannins and strong, floral-driven persistence.”

This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast!
The average price nationally is $38