Midweek Addition 2-12-20

In Today’s Newsletter:

Beyond “The Barolo of the South”
Taurasi On Its Own Merits


Subscriber Special:
10% Off West Coast Magnums


Frog’s Leap: Ultra-Classic Napa at Fantastic, Old School Prices

Two Vintages of Bethel Heights Justice

The Dujac of Beaujolais

Chandon de Brailles’ Corton

A New Wine Spectator Review for a Vinopolis Favorite

Trending

Collector’s Corner
Older, Top Bottlings from Cappellano and Burlotto

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Beyond “The Barolo of the South”

Taurasi On Its Own Merits


The unfortunate fate of Southern Italy is that all things there will be compared with the North.  Just as Lecce is rarely appreciated on its own merits for its beautiful Baroque architecture (it’s the “Florence of the South”), the noblest wine of Campania (Taurasi) is best known as the “Barolo of the South.”

That’s a shame—Taurasi is one of Italy’s grandest wines and deserves to stand on its own merits.  In full flight, Taurasi does have some of Barolo’s floral and earth tones, but married to a gutsy, mineral and fruit packed style that gives away its high altitude southern origins.  These are thrilling wines, with enough fruit to drink young (ish) but enough structure to age for decades.

Because all things from Southern Italy are undervalued, these wines will cost you way less than they should.  Mastroberardino’s Taurasi “Radici” has been a standard bearer for the region since the 60’s (the ’69 is still a legendary wine) on the level of Conterno or Mascarello but you can take home a six-pack for the cost of a bottle of Barolo Francia (and have enough left over to go to dinner).

Likewise, Cantine Lonardo is one of the most promising producers in the region, making precise wines that show off the unique single-vineyards that he farms.  Were we to transplant these wines to Tuscany or the Piedmont, you’d be looking at a triple-digit bill per bottle, but instead they’re the price of a mid-tier producer’s cru wines.

These are wines to get excited about, and soon.  Once the world starts to realize what’s available from Campania, these prices are going to look laughable.


In Stock Now:

Mastroberardino Radici, Taurasi DOCG 2015 750ML ($49.95) $39 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Case-6 Mastroberardino Radici, Taurasi DOCG 2015 750ML ($299.95) $219 special (that’s only $36.50/bottle!)
James Suckling 96 points
“I love the spicy and lifted notes here of caramelized orange peel, dried meat, blackcurrants, pomegranate, sea urchin and bark. A seamless and wonderfully elegant, medium-bodied palate follows with finely grained tannins and loads of floral undertones. This wine is all about transparency and subtlety. Best Radici in years. Drink now.”
Wine Advocate 93 points “The Mastroberardino 2015 Taurasi Radici is a dark and savory wine with thickly stacked aromas of black fruit, tar, licorice and campfire ash. This is a baritone Taurasi from a warm and sunny vintage that boasts concentrated and rich flavors as a result. Despite the evident power you get here, Taurasi has a beautiful manner of staying focused and sharp nonetheless. This wine demonstrates that quality very nicely.-ML”

Contrade di Taurasi Cantine Lonardo Taurasi DOCG, Campania 2013 750ML ($49.95) $41.90 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Wine Enthusiast 93 points
“Aromas of black cooking spice, dark-skinned berry and blue flower swirl around in the glass. On the palate, firm, fine-grained tannins and fresh acidity balance dried black cherry, clove and freshly ground pepper. Drink 2021–2030.”
Ian D’Agata – Vinous 91+ points “Bright ruby-red. Pure, high-pitched aromas of dark cherry, flinty plum, licorice and violet. Clean, smooth and refined; tangy blueberry and pomegranate notes lift and intensify the midpalate. Finishes with building austerity. Very pure and varietally accurate on aback end that features a tarry nuance and lovely verve.”
Monica Larner – Wine Advocate 91 points “The fruit in the 2013 Taurasi comes from a half-dozen vineyards throughout the Taurasi appellation, providing a very accessible and immediate expression of a red wine that is known for its long aging capacity. This is a balanced and very polished expression of Aglianico with a shiny and glossy quality of purple and black fruit. The wine ages in oak for 18 months, adding dark spice and licorice. Some 8,000 bottles were produced.”

This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast today!

Contrade di Taurasi Cantine Lonardo Coste, Taurasi DOCG 2012 750ML ($69.95) $59 special, 22 bottles in stock now
Wine Enthusiat 94 points
“Cellar Selection. Aromas of spiced plum, truffle, iris, menthol and leather follow through to the juicy, concentrated palate along with fleshy blackberry, clove and licorice. Firm, velvety tannins provide support. Give this a few more years to fully unwind and develop even more complexity. Drink 2022–2035.”
Ian D’Agata – Vinous 93 points “Inky purple-ruby. Blackberry nectar, violet, red rose, lavender and coriander on the complex nose. Then fresh, pure savory, flinty blueberry, dark plum, licorice and tar flavors. More refined and less powerful than some past Taurasi Coste vintages, but very refined and long. Great Taurasi.”
Winery Note “(translated) The grapes come from espalier plants of about 40 years, all grafted onto American cuttings. Presents clusters of medium size and spherical grains of very intense color, pulp rich in minerals and sugars (23-25%), thin peels with high concentration of anthocyanins and tannins. Wine with an intense ruby red color with reflections still young, consistent and not very transparent. The nose is rich and persistent with hints of ripe fruit, with hints of grass that tend to balsamic. Subtle tertiary aromas, with a slight spiciness and toasting. The taste is warm, with quite austere tannins, well balanced with a strong and enveloping taste.  It is definitely a wine with rich and fatty foods based on meat, game, and winter dishes typical of the mountain cuisine, it also goes well with aged cheeses.”

This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast today!

Contrade di Taurasi Cantine Lonardo Vigne d’Alto, Taurasi DOCG 2012 750ML ($69.95) $59 special, 20 bottles in stock now
Wine Enthusiast 95 points
“Perfumed and loaded with finesse, this single-vineyard wine opens with enticing scents of violet, ripe black-skinned fruit, new leather and baking spice. Made with 60- to 100-year-old plants, the smooth, delicious palate delivers succulent Marasca cherry, plum, licorice and nutmeg framed in velvety tannins, making it one of the more elegant expressions of Taurasi out there. A mineral note energizes the lingering finish. Drink through 2032.”
Ian D’Agata – Vinous 92 points “Good full ruby. Underbrush and musky red and dark fruit notes complicated by notes of hoisin sauce and sassafras. Enters fresh and juicy, then turns mountingly tannic. Finishes long and savory, with chewy tannins nicely supporting the ripe dark fruit flavors. Decant this at least an hour ahead and watch it develop in the glass.”
Winery Note “(translated) The grapes come from around 70-100 year old vines. Presents clusters of medium size and spherical grains of very intense color, pulp rich in minerals and sugars (23-25%), thin peels with high concentration of anthocyanins and tannins. Wine with an intense ruby red color with garnet reflections, consistent and not very transparent. The nose is rich and persistent with hints of ripe fruit, aromas of underbrush, balsamic and earthy. The taste is warm, with austere tannins, without excessive drying, fresh and lively wine. It is definitely a wine with rich and fatty foods based on meat, game, and winter dishes typical of the mountain cuisine, it also goes well with aged cheeses.”

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Subscriber Special:

10% Off West Coast Magnums


We love large formats almost as much as we love great wines from the west coast.  When those things collide, though—watch out!  We hope you love magnums as much as we do—and if you do, get very excited.

We’re offering you, our email subscribers, 10% off all in stock magnums from the West Coast through the end of the week.  That’s right! Until 6PM on Friday, any 1.5L from California, Oregon or Washington is 10% less than it normally would be. As with the previous specials, it won’t display online or in your shopping cart, but we’ll make sure we take that discount before we run your card.  Do note, though—most of the gems are only available in ones or twos, so to the quickest go the spoils.


Subscriber Special: 10% Off All In Stock West Coast Magnums
Subscriber Special pricing will not display online or in your cart.
We will manually adjust pricing before finalizing your order.
Subscriber Special valid until Friday, February 14th at 6PM PT

Some Highlights, In Stock Now:

Clos du Val Hirondelle Vineyard Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags Leap District 2014 1.5L ($299.95) $239 Displayed Price, $215.10 Subscriber Special, 1 magnum in stock now
Antonio Galloni 94 points
“Deep, inky and enveloping, the 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Hirondelle Estate Vineyard captures all the elements that make Stags Leaps Cabernets so compelling. A host of lavender, mint, sage, graphite and crème de cassis notes flesh out in an effortless, noble Cabernet Sauvignon endowed with notable depth and intensity.”

This is the lowest listed price for a magnum in the USA today!

Sine Qua Non Into The Dark Grenache, Sta Rita Hills 2004 1.5L ($2,199.95) $1,599 Displayed Price, $1,439.10 Subscriber Special, 1 magnum in stock now
Wine Advocate 99 points
“More up-front and open-knit, the 2004 Into the Dark (Grenache) checks in as a blend of 84% Grenache, 8% Mourvedre, 7% Syrah and 1% Viognier that comes mostly from Manfred’s 11 Confessions Vineyard, yet includes small portions from Alban (10%) and Alta Mesa (9%) Vineyard. Reminding me of Clos Saint-Jean’s Sanctus Sanctorum with its incredible bouquet of sweet kirsch, licorice, dried baking spices, graphite and ground pepper, this beauty flows onto the palate with impeccable purity, perfect integration of its fruit, tannin and acidity, and blockbuster length. As is common with this estate’s wine, it’s the purity paired with serious richness that sets it apart. While still youthful and benefiting from a healthy decadence, I think it’s drinking at point and would aim to drink bottles over the coming 4-5 years. It will evolve gracefully for longer, but I see no reason to hold off.-JD”
Robert Parker 99 points “2004 Into the Dark: This absolutely magnificent wine is a blend of 84% Grenache, 8% Mourvedre, 7% Syrah and 1% Viognier, with most of it emerging from the estate’s 11 Confessions Vineyard. It still has a very opaque ruby/purple color, along with a sweet nose of graphite, wood smoke, spice box, white chocolate, kirsch and creme de cassis. Still quite infantile in terms of its development, the wine is full-bodied, with a 45- to 50-second finish. Another 2-3 years of cellaring will be beneficial, and it is certainly capable of lasting 10 or more years.”

This is the lowest listed price for a magnum in the USA today!

Cameron Winery ‘Abbey Ridge’ Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2016 1.5L ($219.95) $179 Displayed Price, $161.10 Subscriber Special, 4 magnums in stock now
VinopolNote
: Abbey Ridge is one of the most hallowed sites in the Willamette Valley.  Planted in 1975, the Pinot Noir here is own rooted and at one of the highest elevations in the Dundee Hills.  The elevation and classic Jory soils give the wine an intense personality—high toned, elegant and tensile, with good power and a strong voice.  This bottling has been one of the defining Oregon Pinots since John Paul started making it.

This is the lowest listed price for a magnum in the USA today!

Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley 2016 1.5L ($479.95) $449 Displayed Price, $404.10 Subscriber Special, 1 magnum in stock now
Jeb Dunnuck 98+ points
“The 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Colombia Valley is a beautiful wine and has a more classic profile than the more sexy, massive 2015. Beautiful notes of creme de cassis, lead pencil shavings, graphite, dried herbs, and loamy earth all flow to a full-bodied, incredibly pure and perfectly balanced Cabernet Sauvignon that has no hard edges, a deep, concentrated mid-palate, good acidity, and a great, great finish. It reminds me of the 2002 with its uber classic, balanced yet broad and powerful style.”
Wine Advocate 98 points “The 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon has a ripe nose with a precise core of generous, healthy and robust red and black fruits. Bursting from the glass, chocolate-covered black cherries with elegant blackberry tones effortlessly strut their stuff next to seductive tones of French oak spices and subtle savory and floral tones. Full-bodied, the wine turns a touch tart in the mouth, with a focused acid structure balanced by lush tannins. The mid-palate is perfectly balanced, with rich dark cherry notes framing the oak expressions. The ripe core of fruit and oak dance vibrantly on the long, elaborate and generous finish, and the aftertaste lingers on for more than a minute after the wine has left the palate. This is a stunning and impressive wine in this vintage, one for collectors to take note of and seek out. 4,975 cases were produced.-AM”
Stephen Tanzer – Vinous 97 points “Moderately saturated dark red with ruby tones. Classic, complex Cabernet scents of black fruits, cocoa powder and sexy herbs lifted by a strong mineral component; the high-quality Taransaud and Darnajou barrels come through clearly but not loudly. Wonderfully smooth, tight-grained wine with gloriously ripe but not roasted flavors of wild blackberry, cassis, bitter chocolate and minerals. Harmonious ripe acidity gives this wine outstanding finesse and lifts the fruit. I find this wine more relaxed than the superb 2015 version, perhaps because there was little in the way of vine stress in ’16. Perhaps most impressive in the early going on the extremely long, slowly building back end, which features noble tannins, great suavity and outstanding lift. (3.97 pH; made from Palengat, Champoux and Wallula vineyards, all in Horse Heaven Hills, but the label for this wine has said Columbia Valley for a long time; in an earlier era the label used the even more generic Washington State appellation)”

Kapcsandy Family Winery State Lane Vineyard Grand-Vin Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 2009 1.5L ($799.95) $699 Displayed Price, $629.10 Subscriber Special, 2 magnums in stock now
Antonio Galloni 98 points
“The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Grand Vin opens with the most beguiling bouquet imaginable. Freshly cut flowers, mint, cinnamon and licorice all make an appearance as this vivid, beautifully delineated wine opens up in the glass. A model of total finesse and elegance, the 2009 wraps around the palate with what feels like endless layers of aromas and flavors. This totally seamless, polished Cabernet Sauvignon is virtually impossible to resist today, but it will be even better in another few years. The 2009 is 96% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Merlot and 1% Cabernet Franc.”

Subscriber Special: 10% Off All In Stock West Coast Magnums
Subscriber Special pricing will not display online or in your cart.
We will manually adjust pricing before finalizing your order.
Subscriber Special valid until Friday, February 14th at 6PM PT



Don’t forget, we’re also offering 10% off Delas’ standout ’15 St. Joseph “Francois de Tournon” until Friday evening. 

Subscriber Special: 10% Off Delas 2015 St. Joseph “Francois de Tournon”
Subscriber Special pricing will not display online or in your cart.
We will manually adjust pricing before finalizing your order.
Subscriber Special valid until Friday, February 14th at 6PM PT

Delas Freres Saint-Joseph Francois de Tournon, Rhone 2015 750ML ($44.95) $36 Displayed Price, $32.40 Subscriber Special
Case-6 Delas Freres Saint-Joseph Francois de Tournon, Rhone 2015 750ML ($249.95) $199 Displayed Price, $179.10 Subscriber Special (that’s only $29.85/bottle!)
Wine Advocate 93 points
“Inky and concentrated, the 2015 Saint-Joseph Francois de Tournon is no easy-drinking Saint-Joseph. It’s smoky, herbal and ashy all at once, yet it’s buoyed by ample black cherry fruit and vibrant acidity. This medium to full-bodied Syrah has plenty of tannins, but they’re ultimately silky and most apparent on the long, licorice-tinged finish. This is approachable now but should be even better in 3 years and should drink well for at least another 10 after that.”
Jeb Dunnuck 93 points “Both Saint Joseph releases are brilliant in 2015. The 2015 Saint Joseph François De Tournon comes vines around Tournon, Mauves, Saint-Jean-de-Muzols, and Vion, and is always destemmed and aged in 30% new barrels. This full-bodied, rounded, sexy beauty shows the power and fruit of the vintage. With classic notes of black and blue fruits, violets, incense and pepper, drink this textured, expansive, terrific Saint Joseph over the coming 10-15 years.”
Josh Raynolds-Vinous 92 points “Dark ruby. High-pitched red and dark berry and violet aromas show excellent focus and pick up hints of cracked pepper and sandalwood with air. Sappy and seamless in texture, offering fresh black raspberry and bitter cherry flavors and a hint of candied licorice. Turns sweeter on the penetrating, impressively long finish, which features smooth, even tannins and lingering boysenberry and floral qualities.”

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Frog’s Leap:  Ultra-Classic Napa

At Fantastic, Old School Prices
 
Frog’s Leap is one of the last great old-school Napa producers.  Seemingly immune to trends, they’ve made classically proportioned wines since their founding and continue to today.  If you want Cabernet that has fruit but also structure and freshness, Frog’s Leap’s wines are right up your alley.  Ditto their Chard, Merlot and Zinfandel—these are wines that are at home on the table, complementing food and refreshing the palate. 

We’ve got a great assortment of these wines arriving next week at stellar pricing—these are wines that you’re going to want around for your table and your cellar.  


Arriving Friday, February 21st

Frog’s Leap Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford 2016 750ML ($69.95) $45 pre-arrival special
Antonio Galloni 93 points “
The 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Grown from Frog’s Leap is dark, bold and luscious, with generous dark cherry, plum spice, leather. Forward and supple, the 2016 will drink well right out of the gate, and yet it also has enough freshness to age nicely for a number of years. In 2016, the Cabernet has gorgeous depth to play off a classic, mid-weight sense of structure. This is a positively joyous Cabernet Sauvignon from Frog’s Leap.”
Decanter 92 points World Wine Awards ” 91% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Cabernet Franc, 3% Merlot. Powerful and rich with luscious blackcurrant compote, wood smoke, cedar and leather. Grippy tannins and wonderfully balanced toasty oak leads to a delightful finish.”

This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast today!

Frog’s Leap Chardonnay, Napa Valley 2016 750ML ($37.95) $21.90 pre-arrival special
Winery note
“Carneros Chardonnay at its very best: pure, clean, fresh, restrained, drinkable. A unique combination of barrel fermentation followed by extended “sur lie” aging in concrete vats. Balance and restraint in a varietal not always associated with these traits.”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

Frog’s Leap Merlot, Rutherford 2015 750ML ($39.95) $29 pre-arrival special
Winery note
“Extravagant plum fruit aromas enriched by the lush flavors that Merlot is famous for. Grown in cool clay soils, this wine shows why some of the rarest and most expensive wines in the world start with Merlot. Miles was an idiot!”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

Frog’s Leap Zinfandel, Napa Valley 2016 750ML ($37.95) $24 pre-arrival special
Winery note
“Delightful aromas of summer-berry conserve combined with a touch of spice and fresh fruit flavors. A Zinfandel that draws its power from sophistication instead of raw alcohol content. Made in the classic field blend style including significant portions of Petite Sirah and Carignan.”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

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Two Vintages of Bethel Heights Justice

Bethel Heights is one of the legendary names in Oregon wine.  Founder Ted Casteel (literally) wrote the book on farming grapes in the Willamette Valley and the wines are better now than they ever have been.  One of the highlights of their range is the Justice Vineyard Pinot, from a site abutting Bethel Heights Vineyard that the Casteel family owns and farms.

Many insiders think that Justice might be superior to Bethel Heights’ original vineyard, and it’s easy to see why.  At 500′, it’s a touch lower and warmer—perfect for consistent ripening in the Eola-Amity Hills.  The resulting wines are big, bold and powerful, but with beautiful floral tones and snappy acidity that the winds of region bring.  We have secured two great (and very different) vintages of this Willamette Valley masterpiece at great pricing, arriving early next month.


Arriving ETA Early March:

Bethel Heights Vineyard Justice Vineyard Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills 2016 750ML ($59.95) $51.90 pre-arrival special
Wine Advocate 93 points
“From vines planted in 1999, the pale to medium ruby-purple colored 2016 Pinot Noir Justice Vineyard has a lovely nose of lilacs and violets over a core of warm black cherries and berries, blueberry pie and bramble berry preserves notions with touches of sliced prosciutto, black pepper and crushed rock. Medium-bodied, it fills the mouth with perfumed warm earth and black fruits flavors, with beautiful grainy tannins and great freshness lifting the long finish. 450 cases produced.”
Josh Raynolds 93 points “Shimmering ruby. A complex, expressive bouquet evokes fresh dark berries, candied flowers, incense and vanilla. Concentrated yet energetic, offering palate-staining, spice-laced black raspberry, cherry cola and violet pastille flavors that pick up a smoky mineral note on the back half. Displays a suave blend of depth and delicacy and finishes with sharp delineation, harmonious tannins and lingering spiciness. (40% new French oak).”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

Bethel Heights Vineyard Justice Vineyard Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills 2017 750ML ($59.95) $51.90 pre-arrival special
James Suckling 93 points
“This is very fresh and composed with a very smoothly rendered and glossy feel and an inherently complex, spiced-plum edge. The palate has a very approachable, fine-grained core with blueberry and plum flavors that hold fresh and pure. Adjoining vineyard, purchased in 1999. Drink or hold.”

This is the only listing in the USA today!
 
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The Dujac of Beaujolais

Daniel Bouland makes gutsy wines from old vines in the heart of Beaujolais premier appellations.  You often hear that they’re traditionally made and, although that’s true, it doesn’t begin to describe what makes the wines unique.  These are wines that recall what Beaujolais would have been like before industrial farming and certainly before industrial winemaking.  They’re special, powerful and age-worthy.

From a winemaking perspective, the closest comparison to what Daniel Bouland is doing is probably Domaine Dujac.  The cross-regional comparison probably violates some sort of law of wine-writing, but when you look at what Bouland does with his grapes, it makes sense.  There’s almost exclusively whole cluster fermentation at both houses and Bouland’s wine show as muscular and robust—capable of very long aging and transformation into profound wines.

The difference, of course, is that working with Gamay, Bouland’s wines are more immediately drinkable than anything from Dujac (Bouland also doesn’t use new oak on his wines).  And the prices are far below what top Burgundy can command. Young, the Bouland bottles show both intense fruit and structure—you wouldn’t necessarily think to drink Beaujolais with steak, but these are incredible pairings with even very hearty foods (especially since Gamay has a zesty freshness to it that keeps the meals light.


In Stock Now:

Daniel Bouland Chiroubles ‘Chatenay’, Beaujolais 2018 750ML ($29.95) $26 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 92 points
“Bouland’s 2018 Chiroubles bursts with aromas of ripe blackberries, red plums, violets and cracked black pepper. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, ample and layered, with a succulent core of fruit, fine concentration and a long, lip-smacking finish. An especially gourmand rendition of this cuvée, it hails from a steep hillside site and is matured in tank.”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

Daniel Bouland Morgon Bellevue, Beaujolais 2018 750ML ($34.95) $28 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 93+ points
“The 2018 Morgon Bellevue Sable comes from younger vines, planted on Viala rootstock in sandy soils—as the “sable” newly added to its label makes clear. Revealing aromas of blackberries, smoked meats, cracked pepper and violets, it’s medium to full-bodied, ample and muscular, with powdery structuring tannin, juicy acids and a blockier, more reserved profile than the Chiroubles and Brouilly that preceded it. This will demand a couple of years’ patience before it shows all its cards.”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

Daniel Bouland Morgon Corcelette Vieilles Vignes, Beaujolais 2018 750ML ($34.95) $29 special. 36+ bottles in stock now
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 94 points
“From vines planted in sand—which is now indicated on the label—in 1927, Bouland’s 2018 Morgon Corcelette Vieilles Vignes Sable unfurls in the glass with notions of ripe plums, red cherries, smokes meats, violets and black pepper. On the palate, it’s full-bodied, ample and multidimensional, with a broad attack, considerable depth and dimension at the core, juicy acids and a long, intense finish. Powerful and concentrated but framed by velvety tannins, this brilliant Morgon is the antithesis of facile, ephemeral Beaujolais nouveau!”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

Daniel Bouland Morgon Les Delys, Beaujolais 2018 750ML ($47.95) $39 special, 10 bottles in stock now
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 96 points
“There are some 6,600 bottles of Bouland’s 2018 Morgon Les Delys Vieilles Vignes de 1926—a cuvée that readers shouldn’t confuse with Bouland’s new Delys bottling from younger vines that he used to blend into his Corcelette. Revealing a deep and complex bouquet that mingles blackberry and cassis fruit with nuances of smoke, rich soil tones and spice, the wine is deep, full-bodied and enveloping, saturating the palate with layer after layer of sapid fruit and velvety tannin, its imposing structural bones entirely hidden by copious flesh. As is often the case, this is a Morgon with more than a passing resemblance to a young Clape Cornas, and in its muscular stylist register, it’s one of the finest cuvées being produced in the Beaujolais today.”

Daniel Bouland Morgon Bellevue ‘Schiste’, Beaujolais 2017 750ML ($34.95) $27 special, 13 bottles in stock now
Josh Raynolds 93 points
“Brilliant ruby. A powerful, mineral-accented bouquet evokes ripe red/dark berries, incense, violet and exotic spices. Sappy, pliant and gently sweet, offering concentrated black raspberry, mulberry and spicecake flavors that firm up slowly with aeration. Shows impressive depth as well as energy and finishes smooth, sweet and very long, leaving behind violet pastille and bitter cherry notes.”
Jeb Dunnuck 93 points “The 2017 Morgon Schiste Bellevue is a brilliant Beaujolais and certainly worth seeking out. Loads of minerality, as well as ripe dark fruit fruits, give way to a medium-bodied, silky 2017 that has high yet integrated acidity, plenty of tannins, and superb overall balance. There’s no harm in drinking bottles today, but I suspect this cuvée will still be going strong in 10-15 years.”
Wine Advocate 92 points “Rich aromas of raspberries and cherries introduce the 2017 Morgon Bellevue, a full-bodied, velvety but reserved wine with a deep, layered mid-palate, superb concentration and juicy acids. After the expressive Chiroubles and Côte de Brouilly, the Bellevue is a little more closed after its recent bottling, but it will be superb in the fullness of time.”

Daniel Bouland Chiroubles ‘Chatenay’, Beaujolais 2017 750ML ($34.95) $27 special, 7 bottles in stock now
Josh Raynolds 92 points
“Lurid violet. Penetrating red/blue fruit, floral and spice aromas, with a building mineral quality and a hint of earthiness. Intense black raspberry and cherry flavors display excellent clarity, and a deeper licorice quality gains power on the back half. Distinctly lively for the vintage, showing solid dark-fruit thrust on a long, gently tannic finish.”
Wine Advocate 92 points ” The 2017 Chiroubles offers up a pretty bouquet of raspberries, red cherries, plums and dark chocolate, lent lift by pretty floral top notes. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, ample and succulent, with a layered core of fruit, fine tannins and mouthwatering acids. It hails from a steep hillside site and is matured in stainless steel.”
 
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Chandon de Brailles’ Corton

The wines of Chandon de Briailles are old-school Burgundies and brilliant because of it.  Made with lots of whole clusters and an age-worthy approach, they are wines that need time but pay off in a big, big way.  The estate has been a bit of an insider secret for years, as these wines are fantastic for their prices.

Speaking of those prices—the Burgundy market tends to reward wines that drink well on release and/or come from prestige appellations.  These wines are neither (though Corton was quite the glamorous location a few hundred years ago).  They require time to come into their own, putting on weight and texture in bottle until you open them up and they show up every other wine on the table (including many that released at triple the price).


Arriving Friday, February 21st:

Domaine Chandon de Briailles Corton-Bressandes Grand Cru, Cote de Beaune 2016 750ML ($189.95) $119 pre-arrival special
William Kelley – Wine Advocate 94 points
“The 2016 Corton Bressandes Grand Cru is also showing extremely well, unfurling in the glass with aromas of cassis, ripe plums, dark chocolate, dried flowers and spices. On the palate, it’s full-bodied, ample and velvety, with a deep, layered core, succulent balancing acids and a long, intense and beautifully soil-driven finish. Cropped at 22 hectoliters per hectare, this is an exceptional Bressandes that will be well worth seeking out.”
Stephen Tanzer 91-94 points “(a blend of four lots; the vines on the Aloxe side of the cru, on thin soil over mother rock, were seriously affected by frost while those on more clay-rich soil on the Ladoix side produced a normal crop; 80% vendange entier): Bright red-ruby. Distinctly dark aromas of blackberry and cassis lifted by violet and mint nuances and complicated by a saline element. Ripe but classically dry, offering terrific density of texture as well as more thrust than the Maréchaudes. This wine is totally different in shape, finishing with broader, firmer, almost peppery tannins that dust the front teeth. Flavors of dark fruits and spices linger impressively. I suspect that this wine will need considerably longer cellaring than the Maréchaudes.”


This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!


Can’t wait? These are already in stock now:

Domaine Chandon de Briailles Corton-Bressandes Grand Cru, Cote de Beaune 2013 750ML ($149.95) $79 special, 11 bottles in stock now
Burghound 91-93 point
s “This too is quite reduced yet from barely perceptible fruit seems fresh. As is usually the case there is slightly finer mouth feel to the broad-shouldered flavors that also possess fine mid-palate concentration, all wrapped in a firmly structured but not hard finish. This is youthfully austere with just a hint of rusticity and this too will definitely require patience.”
Wine Spectator 91 points “This is spicy, with sandalwood, vanilla, green olive and wild berry flavors building from start to finish. Balanced in a lean, tightly wound style, presenting a lingering, spicy aftertaste. Best from 2018 through 2032. 334 cases made.”


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Domaine Chandon de Briailles Corton-Bressandes Grand Cru, Cote de Beaune 2014 750ML ($149.95) $89 special, 2 bottles in stock now
Wine Spectator 94 points
“This needs air to reveal the deep cherry and raspberry flavors. Pure, with mineral and earth details adding grace notes. Though balanced, this will require time for the structure and flavors to meld. Fine length. Best from 2020 through 2035. 367 cases made.”
Burghound 93 points “Reduction presently dominates the nose and I would again strongly suggest decanting this first if you’re going to sample a bottle before 2 to 3 years of age. On the palate there is a seductive texture to the velvety, complex and attractively mineral-inflected medium weight plus flavors that possess a fine sense of balance and deliver excellent finishing persistence along with impressive depth. This too is textbook.”


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Domaine Chandon de Briailles Corton-Marechaudes Grand Cru, Cote de Beaune 2015 750ML ($199.95) $119 special, 1 bottle in stock now
Wine Spectator 93 points
“Though concentrated, this is also lean and chewy, with big, dusty tannins framing blackberry and blueberry fruit. Good acidity keeps this focused, though this will need some time for the structure to resolve. Fine length. Best from 2022 through 2036. 15 cases imported.”
Burghound 91-94 points “This too manages to be at once very ripe but attractively fresh with its liqueur-like aromas of dark currant, plum, lilac and warm earth. The powerful yet sleek medium weight plus flavors brim with dry extract thanks to the concentrated amount of sappy dry extract that imparts a velvety mouth feel to the hugely long finale. This is less rustic than it usually is though with that said, it’s less refined than its two big boy stablemates.”


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A New Wine Spectator Review for a Vinopolis Favorite

As with many things involving the wines of the Mosel, it’s best to let Terry Theise do the rest of the talking.  He imports the wines from Willi Schaefer, but we don’t find his prose to be hyperbolic in the slightest.  Ok, perhaps a touch, but seriously not by a lot—the wines are that good.  Here’s what he has to say:

“For many tasters, these are the Ne Plus Ultra of Mosel wine, and they have attracted an almost religious following. Thus my most frustrating agency, as there is never enough wine. It is hard to put a finger on exactly what it is that makes these wines so precious. There is a candor about them that is quite disarming. They are polished too, but not brashly so. They are careful to delineate their vineyard characteristics, and they offer fruit of sublime purity. They are utterly soaring in flavor yet not without weight. What many of you seem to have warmed to is their clarity, precision and beauty of fruit, so maybe I’ll leave it at that!” –Terry Theise

The 2018’s arrive this month and the ‘18 Himmelreich Spatlese just got a nice review from Wine Spectator.  You can find the entire selection of Schaefer Rieslings in our web store, including some delicious ’16’s that have somehow hung around.


Arriving ETA February:

Weingut Willi Schaefer Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spatlese, Mosel 2018 750ML ($59.95) $49 pre-arrival special
Wine Spectator 93 points
“A luscious, velvety spätlese, featuring concentrated ripe apricot, orange marmalade and graham cracker notes, balanced by intense acidity, with hints of honey and sage cream on the finish. Very giving right now, and will only get better. Best from 2021 through 2036. —A.Z.”



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Trending

Wine of the gods indeed!
Cavalli Tenuta degli Dei Toscana IGT, Tuscany 2015 750ML ($49.95) $41.90 special
Case-6 Cavalli Tenuta degli Dei Toscana IGT, Tuscany 2015 750ML ($299.95) $238 special (that’s only $39.67/bottle!)
James Suckling 96 points
“Creme de cassis, freshly picked blueberries, crushed violets, hot stones, dried sage and thyme, charcoal and bark. Full body, tightly worked tannins and a long yet tight finish. The palate shows real transparency and a sense of minerality in addition to the stellar depth you would expect. Drink in 2022.”
Antonio Galloni 94 points “The 2015 Tenuta Degli Dei is one of the best editions of this wine I can remember tasting. Bold, racy and exuberant with tremendous depth, the 2015 has a lot to recommend it. The blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc works very well in this ample, large-scaled wine. A generous amount of Petit Verdot (35%) helps keep the flavors fresh and vibrant in this super-expressive red blend from the Cavalli family.”

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From perhaps the oldest Syrah planting in North America, this is stunning and a great value.
Marietta Cellars Gibson Block Syrah, McDowell Valley 2016 750ML ($39.95) $33 special, 20 bottles in stock now
Antonio Galloni 95 points
“The 2016 Syrah Estate Gibson Block is the star of this range from Marietta. From a dry-farmed site planted in the 1880s, the Gibson Block is powerful, sumptuous and racy to the core. A whole range of complementary varieties give the Gibson Block striking inner perfume and lift to play off the intense dark fruit, while silky tannins add to the wine’s racy, inviting personality.”


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Big, structured and impressive, this is a wine to drink in a decade.
Cavallotto Bricco Boschis Vignolo, Barolo Riserva DOCG 2011 750ML ($119.95) $89 special, 14 bottles in stock now
Antonio Galloni 94 points
“A dark, powerful wine, the 2011 Barolo Riserva Vignolo has nevertheless preserved good freshness for the year. The breadth and amplitude of the vintage comes through, and yet all the elements are impeccably balanced. Readers can look forward to another 20 years of fine drinking. This is very nicely done.”
Wine Spectator 94 points “There are plenty of bass notes in this ripe, broad red, from deep plum and black cherry flavors to licorice and tar notes. An undercurrent of freshness propels the underbrush elements on the finish. Complex and long. Best from 2021 through 2035.”
Monica Larner – Wine Advocate 93 points “2011 Barolo Riserva Vignolo is a dark and succulent expression that showcases the characteristics of the warm vintage. The bouquet puts forth a compelling set of dark fruit characteristics with Morello cherry, dried blackberry, mocha and delicate accents of sweet spice. The vineyard team was careful to keep the clusters under the shade of the canopy for as long as possible during the summer months to prevent the grapes from ripening too fast or bleaching their color pigments. The results are very nice indeed.”


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Everything we’re looking for in Chablis.
Chateau de Beru Chablis Terrois de Beru, Burgundy 2017 750ML ($49.95) $41.90 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Antonio Galloni 94 points
“The 2017 Chablis Terroirs de Béru is striking. Wonderfully fresh and delineated, the 2017 possesses striking depth, not to mention tons of sheer character. Dried flowers, orchard fruit and mint all develop in the glass, but it is the wine’s crystalline personality that really stands out. The Terroirs de Béru is conceived as a representation of the entire property, and it is absolutely gorgeous.”


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Bistro wine if we ever saw it. Rich, yet charming and delightful.
Domaine Charles Joguet Chinon Les Petites Roches, Loire 2016 750ML ($29.95) $21.90 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Case-12 Domaine Charles Joguet Chinon Les Petites Roches, Loire 2016 750ML ($359.95) $219 special (that’s only $18.25/bottle —the lowest listed price in the country!)
Domaine Charles Joguet Chinon Les Petites Roches, Loire 2016 1.5L ($59.95) $49 special, 3 magnums in stock now
Importer Note
“When Charles Joguet took over the family vineyards in 1957, he set out to do something that was unheard of in the Loire Valley. Rather than blending all the fruit from his varied parcels, he opted for a more Burgundian approach and began vinifying each individually, highlighting Chinon’s diversity of soils and exposures and playing with the nuances of vine age to propose a gamut of different wines of unique character. It is in this spirit that the domaine’s current vigneron, Kevin Fontaine, crafts the cuvée Les Petites Roches, named for the estate’s gravelly terroirs. Given light treatment in the cellar, this wine shows off Cabernet in its most delicate, charming form, rife with aromas of roses, damp earth, and little red berries, along with a gentle tannin holding it all together. This classic representation of Cabernet Franc from Chinon can be enjoyed over the next five or so years with roast chicken, pork chops, or game.”


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Collector’s Corner

Older, Top Bottlings from Cappellano and Burlotto

Two of the most heralded names in traditional Barolo are Cappellano and Burlotto, both known for old-school, age worthy wines that are some of the most profound bottlings in the region.  Both use long macerations and age their wines only in large botti (casks).  The result are wines that can often be austere in their youth but blossom over the decades into sensual, intellectually and hedonistically satisfying bottles.

We secured a large parcel of back vintage wines from both producers at prices that are excellent given the provenance and market conditions for these wines.  These are very hard to find on the secondary market, as well—unlike some names, collectors of these bottles tend to drink rather than re-sell.  Now is your chance to secure some rare bottlings.

Unfortunately as you’ll see below, the quantities on each individual bottling are small, so you’re going to have to act quickly.  You can view the entire list from each producer below or click here to see all of the wines from Cappellano or here to see the wines from Burlotto that are available for purchase.

Please Note: Cappellano is adamantly opposed to the idea of numeric score being attached to a wine and requests his wines not be reviewed.  As a result, these wines lack the scores and reviews we usually publish.  If you’re unfamiliar with these wines, we encourage you to search the internet for more information about these bottles—we’re sure you’ll only be more excited to drink them.

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Thanks for reading!