June 5, 2014
Jean-Francois Ganevat
Between Burgundy and the border of Switzerland in eastern France is the obscure and intriguing wine producing region of the Jura. Vineyards are mostly planted along the lower-lying western section of the Jura Mountains facing south to maximize sun exposure. The soil throughout the Jura is composed of Jurassic limestone and marlstone, similar to Chablis and the upper Loire, and was named for the Jura Mountains. The summers in the region are warm and dry and the winters are cold. Due to the region’s isolation, traditional winemaking techniques are still in common practice and its unique regional grape varieties still dominate the landscape.
Since 1650, Jean-Francois Ganevat’s family has grown wine grapes and produced wine in the hamlet of La Combe in the Jura. Jean-Francois Ganevat, after working for his father and Domain Jean-Marc Morey in Burgundy, took over the domaine in 1998 as the fourteenth generation of the family. From his small 21 acres of land, he produces up to forty different wines each year; a potpourri of small quantities. Some of these varieties are ancient native varieties not allowed under the AOC, such as Petit Béclan, Portugais Bleu, Enfariné, Argant, Poulsard Blanc. These are inter-planted in his vineyards, and he is in the process of declassifying his wines to allow for their legal inclusion.
Ganevat’s vineyards are grown along slopes in this cool climate. His vineyard practices are exacting and biodynamic. He is known for hand trimming individual grapes from the stems directly into old barrels and are fermented whole-berry. This preserves a small section of the stem and keeps the berries completely intact. In the winery, Ganevat ages his whites for extended periods on the lees, so he only needs minute amounts of sulfur, if any, during bottling. His whites undergo malolactic fermentation and are aged for at least two years before bottling. His reds are aged in barrel at least one year. His wines are light and elegant in style.
Savagnin, also referred to as Nature, is the traditional white variety used for oxidized and non-oxidized still wines and for sparkling wines. Poulsard, or Ploussard, is used to make dry red wines and sparkling roses. It is very light and thin skinned, and is often blended in still or sparkling wines as a blanc de noir. Trousseau is grown in more limited production due to its slower ripening. It produces a slightly more full-bodied and more deeply colored wine. Both red grapes express berry and earthy aromas. Single-varietal wines from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are fresher and fruitier in style than traditional Savagnin or blended wines.
We are excited to feature our allocation of these special wines from Jean-Francois arriving June 6th:
Jean-François Ganevat Grusses en Billat Côtes du Jura Chardonnay 2011 ($69.95) $59 special, 3 bottles available
Distributor note “From 1.8ha of vines planted in 1960 on schist and marl. The most mineral and direct of Ganevat’s Chardonnays.”
Jean-François Ganevat Les Chalasses Vieilles Vignes Côtes du Jura Chardonnay 2011 ($69.95) $59 special, 6 bottles available
Distributor note “From vines planted in 1902 on gray marl. Les Chalasses is a specific vineyard site from which this old-vines cuvee derives. Yields are a miniscule 15HL/HA. This is Ganevat’s most powerful and longest aged white, and the last to be bottled. Ganevat first made this cuvée in 1999.”
Jean-François Ganevat Chamois du Paradis Chardonnay 2011 ($59.95) $49 special, 3 bottles available
Red marl, gravel and limestone vineyard, vineyard planted in 1949.
Jean-François Ganevat Cuvée Florine Côtes du Jura Chardonnay 2011 ($59.95) $49 special, 6 bottles available
Distributor note “Named after his daughter, this cuvée is made from the “youngest” vines on the estate (planted in 1986 on limestone soil). Impressive, with deep fruits flavors, very expressive, fresh and rich with great acidity.”
Jean-François Ganevat Les Grands Teppes Vieilles Vignes Côtes du Jura Chardonnay 2011 ($79.95) $69 special, 9 bottles available
Jean-François Ganevat Les Grands Teppes Vieilles Vignes Côtes du Jura Chardonnay 2011 1.5L ($179.95) $149 special, 1 magnum available
Distributor note “From vines planted in 1919 on red marl and gravel. The Grand Teppes VV is a close second to the Chalasses VV, tending to be bigger, richer and more muscular than its sibling.”
Jean-François Ganevat J’en Veux NV ($79.95) $69 special, 3 bottles available
Importer note “Blend of 18 different red and white native varieties to the Jura : l’Enfariné, Corbeau, Gueuche, Portugais Bleu, Gouais, Beclan, Petit Beclan, Argant, Seyve-Villard. Vineyard planted in 1900.”
Distributor note “Vin de France. A blend of 18 ancient red and white non-AOC-approved indigenous varieties, such as Petit Beclan, Beclan, Gueuche, Enfariné, Corbeau, Portugais Bleu, Gouais, Argant, Seyve-Villard. All the vines are franc de pied. Delightful earth and fruit notes, all varieties co-fermented. Each grape is cut off the stem by hand with a small stem attached to keep the berries intact. Just 80 cases produced. First made in 2004.”
Jean-François Ganevat Cuvée Oregane Côtes du Jura Chardonnay-Savignin 2011 ($89.95) $69 special, 3 bottles available
Blue and white marl soil, vineyard planted in 1973 and 1977.
Jean-François Ganevat En Billat Côtes du Jura Pinot Noir 2012 ($89.95) $69 special, 3 bottles available
Distributor note “This particular parcel was planted by Ganevat at a high altitude on schist soils. The very low-yield grapes are destemmed by hand (a very tedious process) and allowed to macerate for a long time. The wine is well-structured with fine tannins.”
Jean-François Ganevat Cuvée de l’Enfant Terrible Côtes du Jura Poulsard 2012 ($79.95) $59 special, 6 bottles available
Distributor note “From vines planted in 1959 and grown on white and gray marl. Tiny yields, as low as 10 hl/ha. Less than 200 cases produced.”
Jean-François Ganevat Marnes Bleues Côtes du Jura Savignin 2011 ($89.95) $79 special, 3 bottles available
Jean-François Ganevat Marnes Bleues Côtes du Jura Savignin 2011 1.5L ($199.95) $169 special, 1 bottle available
Distributor note “From vines planted in 1933 on clay soils which favor Savagnin (in this case the type known as Savagnin Vert). A very impressive wine made in a non-oxidative style (the wine is “ouillé”, meaning the foudres or tanks are regularly “topped up” to prevent oxidation), this cuvee combines richness of fruit, minerality and clear varietal identity.”
Jean-François Ganevat Cuvée Prestige Savignin 2010 ($89.95) $79 special, 3 bottles available
Importer note “Made in an oxidative style, wine remains sous voile for 48 months in demi-muid. Vineyard planted in 1977.”
Jean-François Ganevat Les Vignes de Mon Père Savignin Côtes du Jura 2003 ($179.95) $149 special, 6 bottles available
Distributor note “From Savagnin Vert vines, planted in 1930 on the blue marl of the Chalasses site. Aged 8 to 11 years (there are three releases of the wine during the process) in cask and topped up regularly. A very big, deep wine with slight oxidative notes, even though it is ouillé (meaning the foudres or tanks are regularly “topped up” to prevent oxidation).”
Jean-François Ganevat SUL Q NV 375ML ($99.95) $89 special, 6 half-bottles available
Importer note “A ‘sélections des grains nobles’ of Savagnin though SGN is not officially recognized in the Jura. 250 grams RS.”
Jean-François Ganevat Plein Sud Côtes du Jura Trousseau 2012 ($89.95) $69 special, 3 bottles available
Distributor note “This is Ganevat’s most important red wine, producing about 2500 cases. From vines planted in 1949 and in 2000 on gray marl and pebbles.”
Other Jura and Arbois wines here now
Berthet-Bondet Côtes du Jura Chardonnay 2011 ($24.95) $21.90 special, 26 bottles available
Importer Note “100% Chardonnay, 17 year old vines. Gravel and marl soil. A pure Chardonnay that speaks clearly of the Jura region. It is barrel-aged for 12 months in principally neutral barrels (the % of new oak varies from 8 to 16%), according to classic methods with topping up to avoid oxidation. The wine is fresh, pure Chardonnay with the distinct notes of the Jura terroir or earth and hay. Serve it with poultry or veal associated with mushrooms, and cheese. “
Berthet-Bondet Côtes du Jura Nature 2011 ($26.95) $21.90 special, 14 bottles available
Wine Spectator 90 points “Apple, fennel seed and creamed melon notes glide along, woven with a waxy hint and followed by an echo of salted butter on the finish. Nice persistence and range. Naturé is a synonym for Savagnin.” Non-Oxidized, 100% Savagnin
Berthet-Bondet Côtes du Jura Rubis 2012 ($23.95) $19 special, 37 bottles available
From The Winery “Made with 45% Trousseau, 45% Poulsard and 10% Pinot Noir this wine is characterized by it’s lightness and the complex bouquet of red fruits and earthy character. It can be kept for up to 5 years and is best served at 14ºC with charcuterie, smoked meats, grills and meat with fruit dishes such as pork with roasted apple.”
Philippe Bornard Arbois Pupillin Chardonnay Le Blanc de la Rouge 2008 ($29.95) $24 special, 5 bottles available
Julien Labet En Billat Vieilles Vignes Cotes du Jura Poulsard 2009 ($27.95) $24 special, 4 bottles available
Michel Gahier Arbois Trousseau Le Clousot 2012 ($29.95) $26 special, 3 bottles available
Jacques Puffeney Arbois Cuvee Sacha 2011 ($37.95) $33 special, 10 bottles available
Jacques Puffeney Arbois Poulsard M 2011 ($31.95) $28 special, 4 bottles available
Jacques Puffeney Arbois Trousseau Les Berangeres 2011 ($41.95) $37 special, 2 bottles available
Benedicte & Stephane Tissot Cotes du Jura En Barberon Chardonnay 2010 ($39.95) $33 special, 15 bottles available
Wine Advocate 91-92 points “Tasted assembled in tank, whence it was not due to have been bottled any sooner than this spring, the Tissot 2010 Cotes du Jura Chardonnay En Barberon delivers a fascinating and head-turning amalgam of citrus, apple, and resinous herbs, with saliva-inducing, sweet and saline savor that seems to marry elements of oyster liquor and fresh scallop. Grown in the commune of Brery on chalky soils reminiscent of those in Chateau Chalon, this Chardonnay of refined texture, subtly complex, and combining richness with lift, is likely to merit a decade if not longer attention span.”
Benedicte & Stephane Tissot Cotes du Jura En Barberon Chardonnay 2011 ($39.95) $33 special, 10 bottles available
Wine Spectator 90 points “Well- focused, with a light hazelnut frame that lends a firm edge to the core of melon, apple, pear and ginger. A hint of bitter almond extends the finish. Chardonnay. Drink now through 2014”