Friday Newsletter 12-24-21

Champagne Ulysse Collin

Perhaps no vigneron exemplifies the New Champagne like Ulysse Collin. Born to a family of grape-growers, he worked tirelessly to free the family land from contracts selling fruit to negociants and now vinifies all of his wines as single-vineyard bottlings. His wines are profoundly introspective and challenge preconceived notions about what Champagne should be. At the forefront of the new wave of ultra-terroir-driven Champagnes, Olivier produces deeply vinous, mineral and hyper-concentrated wines. True to their terroir, these are reflections of the individual parcels.

“… Collin is doing everything he can to retain all his wines on the lees for longer. Yet to have constituted such extensive stocks of reserve wines from scratch, and to hold back the fruits of his labor for so long before putting them on the market, represents an immense financial investment. Happily, it is an investment that is being repaid with the most gratifying of dividends, as any readers who are able to secure a few bottles of these remarkable wines will be able to experience for themselves.” –William Kelley, Wine Advocate

“Winemaking as a rule here is as natural and non-interventionist as possible. All fermentation is carried out with indigenous yeasts, which can take a remarkably long time to complete: six to eight months is not at all unusual for Collin, and even when tasting vins clairs in June or July, they are typically still in the middle of their alcoholic fermentations. Both the fermentation and malolactic are carried out in three- to six-year old barriques, and the wine is neither fined nor filtered before bottling, which takes place in the fall after the harvest.” – Peter Liem, Champagneguide.net 

Newly Arrived from Ulysse Collin:

Ulysse Collin ‘Les Maillons’ Blanc de Noirs Extra Brut, Champagne NV ($149.95) $133 special, only 6 bottles available
2017-base. Disgorged 03/2021.
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 97 points “Disgorged in March 2021, the NV Extra-Brut Blanc de Noirs Les Maillons (2017) is based on the 2017 vintage and complemented by fully 70% reserve wines from the 2016 vintage. Bursting with aromas of mirabelle plum, crisp orchard fruit, fresh bread, vanilla pod and clear honey, it’s full-bodied, vinous and enveloping, with a lavish core of fruit, bright acids and an enlivening pinpoint mousse. Concentrated and precise, Collin notes that he disgorges this cuvée with slightly higher levels of sulfites than its blanc de blancs counterparts to compensate for the inherent fragility of Pinot Noir.”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
The next best price is $152

Ulysse Collin ‘Les Maillons’ Rose de Saignee Extra Brut, Champagne NV ($199.95) $188 special, only 3 bottles available
2017-base. Disgorged 03/2021
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 94 points “Given the challenges 2017 presented—in particular the presence of the Suzuki fruit fly, which produces volatile acidity when it attacks fruit—Collin opted for a shorter-than-usual maceration for his NV Extra-Brut Rosé de Saignée Les Maillons (2017), and the result is an unusually elegant, fine-boned rendition of this frequently powerful cuvée. Offering up aromas of white cherries, blood orange, rose petals and spices, it’s full-bodied, ample and fleshy, with a layered core of fruit and a pretty pinpoint mousse.”

This is the only listing in the USA today!

Ulysse Collin ‘Les Pierrieres’ Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut, Champagne NV ($179.95) $155 special, only 3 bottles available
2016-base. Disgorged 03/2021.
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 97+ points “Disgorged with 1.7 grams per liter dosage after 48 months sur lattes, Collin’s NV Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Les Pierrières (2016) 48 months bursts with aromas of green apple, blanched almonds, confit citrus and pastry cream. Full-bodied, layered and muscular, it’s deep and concentrated, with racy acids and this site’s telltale chiseled, incisive profile; it’s long and penetrating, concluding with chalky grip. With this late-disgorged version, Les Pierrières takes another step.”
Antonio Galloni 95 points “The NV Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Les Pierrières (2016 base) is the wine that, to me, really shows Olivier Collin’s style off to its greatest effect. Finely cut and chiseled, with striking energy, the Pierrières offers a taut expression of Chardonnay that provides a lovely contrast to the more supple Les Roises. Crushed rocks, lemon confit, almond, dried flowers. The purity and saline-infused energy of the flavors is just brilliant. [Review for prior disgorgement]”

This is the only listing in the USA today!

Ulysse Collin ‘Les Roises’ Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut, Champagne NV ($219.95) $199 special, only 3 bottles available
2016-base. Disgorged 03/2021.
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 97 points “Disgorged in March after 48 months sur lattes, Collin’s NV Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Les Roises (2016) is one of the high points of a brilliant portfolio. Delivering aromas of orange oil, peach, warm spices, beeswax and white flowers, it’s full-bodied, layered and muscular, with all the depth and concentration that these old, virused vines overlooking the village of Congy routinely deliver. Seamless and multidimensional, it’s worth a special effort to seek out.”

This is the only listing in the USA today!

Additional Champagne Arrivals

“Few growers can match Raphaël Bérêche’s enthusiasm. That energy comes through in wines that faithfully capture the purest essence of vintage, variety and site…” Antonio Galloni, Vinous

Bereche et Fils Brut Reserve, Champagne NV 750ML ($69.95) $59 special
Bereche et Fils Brut Reserve, Champagne NV 1.5L ($149.95) $138 special
Disgorged June 2021. L18
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 92 points “Disgorged in July 2020 with seven grams per liter dosage, the NV Brut Réserve (2018 base) is the latest rendition of this wine. Bursting with aromas of orange oil, crisp orchard fruit and fresh bread, it’s medium to full-bodied, fleshy and gourmand, with tangy acids and an enveloping, pillowy profile. [Review is for prior disgorgement of the same base year.]”

With family holdings in Cumieres and Ay, Rene Geoffroy delivers some of the richest and mineral driven grower champagnes on the market. Geoffroy farms mostly Pinot Noir with a smattering of Chardonnay, Arbanne and Petit Mesler also under their spade with field blending being the end goal and result. The house style can be defined by its rich fruit expression tempered by saline minerality and long finish.

Rene Geoffroy Expression Premier Cru Brut NV 750ML ($59.95) $49 special
Wine & Spirits 93 points “Designed as a blend of two vintages, in this case near-equal amounts of 2014 and ’15, Expression is focused on red grapes (35 percent each pinot noir and meunier). Jean-Baptiste Geoffroy enriches the wine’s freshness with reserves that he stores in oak foudres. The combination is smooth and sophisticated, with ripe flavors of crisp apples over a supple texture. The finish is pale and chalky, leaving a clean, fresh feel.” 
Antonio Galloni 92 points “The NV Brut Expression is a beautiful wine. A fine line of acidity runs through the Expression, lending notable brightness and cut throughout. Orchard fruit, spice, mint and dried flowers are all beautifully delineated in a Champagne that impresses for its transparency and cut. I loved it. This release is a blend of 2015 and 2014. Dosage is 5 grams per liter.”

Rene Geoffroy Empreinte Premier Cru Vintage Brut 2014 750ML ($69.95) $59 special
Antonio Galloni 93+ points “The 2014 Brut Cuvée Empreinte, 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay from Cumières, is fabulous. Bright and beautifully sculpted, with soaring aromatics, the 2014 Empreinte is immediately captivating. Bright, saline notes give the 2014 striking energy that cuts straight through the wine. The 2014 was just disgorged, so it needs time to recover, but it is so impressive in the early going. Empreinte is such a great example of what Cumières is all about.”
Wine Spectator 93 points “Fine and chalky, this minerally Champagne weaves a firm backbone with notes of fresh-cut apple, chopped almond, fleur de sel and dried cherry in a tight mesh. Lightly honeyed on the finish. Disgorged September 2020. Best from 2023 through 2029. — AN”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
The average price is $70

Suzanne: Gimonnet is my desert island Champagne producer. Why? The reasons are as numerous as the bottlings. What stands out is the breadth of style with an underlying trademark character, beauty and value at all price points, and the heights achieved with the top releases, which rarely breach $100/bottle. Of course, I have a soft spot for Cote des Blancs Champagne (don’t we all?) and even CdB-based rosés.  

Didier Gimonnet’s wines are pure, classical Blanc de Blancs Champagne.  Gimonnet’s devotion to cool, minerally Champagne made from Chardonnay borders on monastic. At their best, Gimonnet seems to have a quiet resonance, like a beautiful bell struck in a quiet stone hallway. The wines draw you in, not with bombast or noise, but with a clear directness and purity of tone, a personality just as much reflected in the man himself. That pursuit of beauty and elegance, from the entry-level to the top of the line, makes Gimonnet a perpetually top grower in Champagne.

The estate has been on a real roll over the last few years, keeping overall production unchanged but bottling a greater number of wines.  The fractalization of the lineup has seemed to give each individual wine a greater identity and stronger personality, resulting in one of the most compelling sets of Blanc de Blancs in Champagne.  Even the basic NV bottling has greater purity and poise than it used to—and it’s always been one of the best values in Champagne. It’s a can’t miss producer.

“Emphasizing old vines, low yields and ripe grapes, these Champagnes [from Pierre Gimonnet] are site-driven wines…” -William Kelley, Wine Advocate

Pierre Gimonnet et Fils Rose de Blancs Premier Cru Brut NV 750ML ($79.95) $59 special
Skurnik Imports note “Cépage: 95% Chardonnay, 5% Pinot Noir vin rouge. Assemblage: Mostly 2018. Village/vyd Chardonnay from 26% Cramant Grand Cru, (Buissons and Bateau), 10% Chouilly Grand Cru (Ronds Buissons), 9% Oger Grand Cru (Champ Nérons, Terres de Noël, Brulis), 41% Cuis 1er Cru (Croix-Blanche), 9% Vertus 1er Cru (Justices), Pinot Noir from Cumières 1er Cru Rouge. Elevage: Stainless steel. Sur latte 22+ months”

Pierre Gimonnet et Fils Blanc de Blancs ‘Millesime de Collection Vieilles Vignes de Chardonnay’, Champagne 2008 1.5L ($349.95) $289 special
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 95+ points “Released only in magnum, the 2008 Brut Millésime de Collection Vieilles Vignes is the same wine as Gimonnet’s Special Club, bit it sees more than 10 years sur lattes before disgorgement. Unwinding in the glass with a deep and complex bouquet of pear, green apple, citrus zest, oyster shell, smoke and pastry cream, it’s full-bodied, chalky and incisive, with terrific depth at the core, promising reserve and a long, resonant finish.”

Pierre Gimonnet et Fils Blanc de Blancs Cuis Premier Cru Brut NV 1.5L ($159.95) $125 special
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 91 points “Disgorged in July 2019 with six grams per liter dosage, the latest rendition of Gimonnet’s NV Brut Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru Cuis is based on the 2016 vintage, complemented by some 30% reserve wines matured in magnum. Offering up aromas of citrus oil, fresh peach, clear honey, white flowers and oyster shell, it’s medium to full-bodied, pillowy and elegantly fleshy, with crisp acids, elegant mousse and chalky back-end grip. Amounting to some 130,000 bottles per annum, this is Gimonnet’s largest cuvée by some margin.”
Antonio Galloni 91 points “The NV Blanc de Blancs Cuis 1er Cru is such a classic Gimonnet wine. Light on its feet and gracious, with soaring aromatics and tons of nuance, the 1er Cru is a winner. Bright floral overtones, citrus, brioche and apple are some of the many notes that are delineated in the glass. Among the entry-level wines in this range, the Cuis 1er Cru offers the best expression of the Gimonnet style at an affordable price. I loved it. Disgorged: March 16, 2019.”
Skurnik Imports note “Cépage: 100% Chardonnay. Assemblage: 70% 2016, 30% 2012-2015.”

Pierre Gimonnet et Fils Cuvee Fleuron Premier Cru Brut 2014 750ML ($79.95) $66 special
Antonio Galloni 94 points “The 2014 Brut Blanc de Blancs Fleuron is rich and effusive in the glass. Freshly cut flowers, mint, citrus confit and white pepper soar with notable intensity as the Fleuron shows off its alluring, inviting personality. The Fleuron is one of the most elegant and refined wines I have ever tasted from Gimonnet. Cut like a diamond, the Fleuron dazzles from start to finish.”
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 93 points “To be released this year, Gimonnet’s 2014 Brut Blanc de Blancs Cuvée Fleuron derives from lieux-dits in Cramant and Chouilly that produce more reserved wines, and there are no vins clairs from Oger in the blend. It’s showing brilliantly, unwinding in the glass with aromas of crisp green orchard fruit, lemon oil, freshly baked sourdough and pastry cream, followed by a medium to full-bodied, layered and textural but tensile palate, built around an incisive spine of acidity and concluding with a long, mineral finish.”

Pierre Gimonnet et Fils Blanc de Blancs Cuvee Oenophile Premier Cru 2014 750ML ($89.95) $79 special
Antonio Galloni 94 points “The 2014 Extra-Brut Cuvée Oenophile stands out in this flight of three releases of the Oenophile for its density and sheer power. It’s a Champagne for the dinner table, that much is evident. Pear, dried flowers, mint and lemon confit all flesh out in this decidedly ample, resonant edition.”

Pierre Gimonnet et Fils Cuvee Special Club Brut 2014 750ML ($119.95) $95 special
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 94+ points “Disgorged in May 2019 with four grams per liter dosage, Gimonnet’s 2014 Brut Special Club Grands Terroirs de Chardonnay has turned out beautifully, wafting from the glass with aromas of citrus oil, crisp orchard fruit, white flowers and fresh yogurt that are still quite youthfully reserved. Medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated, with racy acids and an elegant pinpoint mousse, it’s seamless and complete. Still tightly wound after its recent disgorgement, it will reward patience.” 
Antonio Galloni 94 points “The 2014 Brut Spécial Club is a blend of fruit taken mostly from Cramant, with Chouilly and Cuis in supporting roles. The breadth and power of Cramant comes through loud and clear. Readers will find a potent, at times austere, Champagne that needs a bit of time in the cellar to soften. The Special Club does not offer the immediacy of the Chouilly or Cramant Special Clubs, but it has plenty of its own allure. Dried pear, spice, crushed flowers and chamomile are some of the aromas and flavors that linger on the imposing finish. Dosage is 4 grams per liter.”

This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast!
The average price is $105

Suzanne: While Gimonnet offers up the purity and elegance Cote des Blancs, Doyard offers some of the most precise and refined examples. These are tense, mineral wines yet without the screeching acidity found in less complete Champagnes. With production methods evocative of Vilmart (barrel maturation and mostly non-malo), this is a thrilling winery to explore deeply before the pricing catches up with the quality.

Doyard is a Cotes de Blancs producer, through and through. Based in Vertus, they specialize in Chardonnay based Champagne from their villages and a few neighboring towns—all of which are some of the best places to grow the grape in the world. With holdings in Avize, Mesnil and Cramant, as well as Vertus, their wines have the chalkiness and precision that we always look for in Cotes de Blancs Champagne.

Doyard puts a bit of a twist on the stereotype, though, and uses a combination of extended lees aging plus barrels for fermentation to add richness and texture to their steely base material (that rarely undergoes malo). The results are captivating and this collection is some of the most exciting in Champagne.  

Doyard Cuvee Vendemiaire Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru Brut NV 750ML ($69.95) $54.50 special
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 92 points “The NV Brut Blanc de Blancs Cuvée Vendémiaire (2014 base) Doyard’s latest release. It was disgorged in February 2020 with four grams per liter dosage after 89 months on the lees. Wafting from the glass with aromas of honeycomb, yellow orchard fruit, dried citrus peel, warm bread and toasted almonds. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy but incisive, it’s elegantly layered and racy, with a pinpoint mousse and a long, sapid finish.”

Doyard ‘Revolution’ Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Non-Dosé NV 750ML ($89.95) $71.90 special
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 94 points “Based on the 2014 vintage and disgorged in March 2020 without dosage, the latest rendition of Doyard’s NV Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Non Dosé Révolution offers up aromas of lemon oil, white flowers, mandarin, golden orchard fruit and buttered toast. Full-bodied, layered and muscular, it’s tangy and incisive, with a satiny attack that segues into a generous core of fruit, concluding with a long, mouthwatering finish.”