VinopolPick Weekend Edition – December 7th

December 7, 2013
PommardThe best of Burgundy is two distinct wine regions: the Cote de Beaune and the Cote de Nuit. These  are known collectively as the Cote d’Or. The Cote de Beaune is the southern-most of the two.  In the center of the Cote de Beaune, between the Volnay and Beaune, is the commune of Pommard, named for the Roman goddess of fruit trees, Pomona.  This commune is home to the Pommard AOC.  Here, only red Pinot Noir wines qualify for the AOC.Pommard AOC wines are generally noted for a masculine style, particularly in contrast to the lighter, more feminine style from the neighboring Volnay AOC.  The wines produced in Pommard are typically fuller in body, richer in tannins, have concentrated flavors, and are noted for their dark fruit and ironish minerality.  When young, these wines are generous with blackcurrant, blackberry and cherry notes.  With age, these wines develop secondary notes, inclusive of leather, musk, animal or chocolate.

Pommard vines are grown between the two steep hills of Mont Buisson and Montagne-Saint-Desiree.  The best vineyard land is above the flat, fertile plain between these hills, but below the tops of the hills.  These slopes provide several different soil types depending upon altitude.  The lower portion of the hills has rich alluvial soil, the mid-slope is composed of clay and limestone, and the upper portion is marl.  In general, these soils tend to be rich in iron, thought to give Pommard wines their characteristic masculine style of richness and tannin.

Within the Pommard AOC are 27 Premier Crus sites.  Two groupings of these, Les Epenots (or Epeneaux) and Les Rugiens are the most broadly respected. But do not be deterred by the lack of Grand Crus in Pommard!  Both Les Epenots and the subsection Les Rugiens-Bas were offered Grand Cru status, but the vignerons declined to accept the greater restrictions on production.  Les Epenots is a historic vineyard site, named after the thorny undergrowth that covers the landscape.  It has developed multiple spellings over the centuries.  It is composed now of the three Premier Cru vineyards: Clos des Epeneaux, Grands Epenots and Petits Epenots.  Wines with the full Les Epenots or Epeneaux name are made from grapes sourced from any combination of these three superb vineyards.  Its soil is predominately clay and limestone, resulting in rich wines that reward ample cellaring.

The Premier Cru climat Les Rugiens is composed of Les Rugiens Bas and Les Rugiens Haut.  Climat is a French term referring to a vineyard site and its terroir.  The word Rugiens is a derivative of the French word for red, rouge, and makes reference to the iron-rich soils.  The soil is rich in minerals and has excellent drainage.  These wines are quite rich and masculine in style.  Of the two, Les Rugiens Bas is considered the greater.
Wines from the Pommard AOC are powerfully lush and intense wines that are superb with rich, hearty fare.  Their higher amount of tannin makes them excellent wines to pair with stews and roasts.  Try pairing them with beef, lamb or poultry stews.  Pungent or aged soft cheeses and roasted vegetables make excellent pairings, too.  Wild game and roast meats match well with the more mature wines.  A votre santé!

Here Now – Pommard Wines- Many Reduced PricesComte Armand Pommard 1er Cru 2010 ($109.95) $79 special, 12 bottles remaining

Comte Armand Pommard Clos Epeneaux 2009 ($179.95) $149.00 special, 4 bottles remaining

Comte Armand Pommard Clos Epeneaux 2010 ($179.95) $129.00 special, 22 bottles remaining

Courcel Pommard Grand Clos Des Epenots 2009 ($129.95) $95.00 special, 3+ cases remaining
Stephen Tanzer 92-95 points

Domaine Huber-Verdereau Pommard 2010 ($49.95) $39.00 special, 13 bottles remaining

Domaine Huber-Verdereau Pommard Vaumuriens 2010 ($51.95) $41.90 special, 10 bottles remaining

Dugat-Py Pommard Levriere Vieille Vigne 2009 ($219.95) $149.00 special, 12 bottles remaining

Dugat-Py Pommard Vielles Vignes Levriere 2004 ($159.95) $119.00 special, 1 bottle remaining

Faiveley Pommard Rugiens 2010 ($119.95) $79.00 special, 3+ cases remaining
Stephen Tanzer 93 points
: “Good medium red. Sexy aromas of cherry, redcurrant and minerals complicated by smoky earth tones. Impressively dense, intense red fruit and floral flavors are stubbornly closed but already perfume the mouth. The very long, subtle finish features noble tannins and a firm structural underpinning. After 72 hours in the recorked bottle, this wine showed even more perfumed aromas of iron, flowers and minerals and a wonderfully taut, gripping palate, suggesting that it will evolve slowly and be long-lived.”

Henri Boillot Pommard 2010 ($59.95) $49.00 special, 23 bottles remaining
Stephen Tanzer 88-90 points
: “Saturated dark red. Reticent aromas of mocha, coffee and bitter chocolate, with a black cherry quality emerging with air. Then surprisingly full and broad in the mouth, but with a rather monolithic quality to its cooler black cherry, licorice and menthol flavors. Tannins are fine but a bit dusty following the monumental Volnay Caillerets. Made from vines in a cold combe, picked at the end of the harvest.”

Louis Jadot Pommard Clos Commaraine 2010 ($59.95) $49.00 special, 24 bottles remaining
Wine Advocate 89-91 points
: “The 2010 Pommard Clos de la Commaraine is a little fleshier and deeper than the villages, but it remains relatively airy and delicate. Sweet red berries, flowers, licorice and tobacco are some of the notes that are woven together in this gorgeous Burgundy. The firm tannins will need a few years in bottle to soften. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2030.”

Vincent  Girardin Pommard Les Vignots 2009 ($49.95) $33.00 special, 20 bottles remaining

Louis Jadot Pommard Epenots 2009 ($59.95) $49.00 special, 3 bottles remaining

Louis Jadot Pommard Epenots 2010 ($59.95) $49.00 special, 24 bottles remaining

Louis Jadot Pommard Rugiens 2009 ($89.95) $69.00 special, 1 bottle remaining
Wine Spectator 92 points
: “Though ripe with cherry and plum flavors, this red is also fresh and well-toned, courtesy of its rigid tannins. All the elements are in the right proportions, with a nice marriage of fruit and tannins on the finish. Best from 2015 through 2024. 90 cases imported.”

Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot Pommard Jarollieres 2010 ($89.95) $69.00 special, 12 bottles remaining
Stephen Tanzer 91-93 points
: “Good full red. Ripe aromas of musky dark cherry, dark berries, minerals and bitter chocolate, lifted by a violet topnote; more floral and spicy than the Pitures. Fat, sweet, silky and concentrated, with impressive mouthfilling richness. The long finish features big, rich, supple tannins and a repeating note of bitter chocolate.”

Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot Pommard Jarollieres 2011 ($99.95) $79.00 special, 12 bottles remaining
Stephen Tanzer 89-91 points
: ” Medium red-ruby. Aromas of black cherry and mocha; less floral and complex than the Volnay cuvees. Sweet and chewy on entry, then a bit cool, even austere, in the middle, showing a medicinal cast to the black fruit and chocolate flavors. Holding a lot in reserve but distinctly taut and clenched today. Finishes with tight tannins. Seems less ripe and rich than the Volnay Pitures.”

Montille Pommard Les Grands Epenots 2009 ($129.95) $99.00 special, 1 bottle remaining

Montille Pommard Les Rugiens 2006 ($139.95) $119.00 special, 3 bottles remaining
Wine Spectator 90 points
: “A mix of sweet berry, cherry and spice flavors are integrated with the silky texture in this elegant red. The tannins lend support, in a balanced, harmonious way. Detailed finish. Best from 2011 through 2020. 358 cases made.” WS

Pousse D’Or Pommard Jarollieres 2006 ($119.95) $99.00 special, 1 bottle remaining

Pousse D’Or Pommard Jarollieres 2009 ($149.95) $89.00 special, 3 bottles remaining
Wine Advocate 94 points
: “The 2009 Pommard Les Jarolieres saturates the palate with its round, ripe fruit. This shows lovely depth and richness, then turns quite a bit more powerful and tannic on the finish. Sweet menthol and crushed rocks wrap around the close. Les Jarolieres is on the border with Volnay. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2039.” WA

Rossignol Pommard Chanlins 2009 ($119.95) $89.00 special, 1 bottle remaining

Rossignol Pommard Rugiens 2009 ($139.95) $119.00 special, 2 bottles remaining

Violot Guillemard Pommard Derriere Jean 2008 ($84.95) $69.00 special, 5 bottles remaining

Violot Guillemard Pommard Derriere Jean 2009 ($79.95) $79.00 special, 11 bottles remaining

Violot Guillemard Pommard Epenots 2009 ($119.95) $89.00 special, 18 bottles remaining

Violot Guillemard Pommard Epenots 2010 ($99.95) $79.00 special, 24 bottles remaining

Violot Guillemard Pommard  Platieres 2008 ($74.95) $59.00 special, 1 bottle remaining

Violot Guillemard Pommard  Platieres 2010 ($79.95) $69.00 special, 23 bottles remaining

Violot Guillemard Pommard Rugiens 2009 ($119.95) $89.00 special, 4 bottles remaining

Violot Guillemard Pommard Rugiens 2010 ($109.95) $89.00 special, 9 bottles remaining