08/20/21 VinpolPick Newsletter

 

Back in stock and newly arrived:

 

Von Winning Spatburgunder Rose Deidesheim 2020 750ML ($24.95) $18.50 special

Skurnik Wines note “Region: Pfalz. Grape Variety: Spätburgunder. Vineyards: Mix of sites in Diedesheim and Rupertsberg. Soil Types: Red sandstone, limestone, loess and clay. Age of Vines: 25 years. Farming Technique: Sustainable. Fermentation & Elevage: respectful cooperation with nature in the vineyard and minimal interference with the wine’s inner structure in the cellar.”

 

This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast today!

 

 

Domaine Tempier Bandol Rose Provence 2020 750ML ($59.95) $49 special

Josh Raynolds-Vinous 93 points “Light orange-pink. Expressive, mineral-accented orange zest, red currant, nectarine and succulent floral and herb aromas take on a spicy nuance with air. Lively and sharply focused in the mouth, offering concentrated red berry, pit fruit, tangerine and honeysuckle flavors and a hint of tarragon. The mineral and floral notes drive an impressively long, precise finish that leaves white peach and spice notes behind.”

 

Domaine Migot Methode Traditionnelle Rose Brut Moselle NV 750ML ($29.95) $24 special

Importer note “Camille Migot is most certainly serious. He is a young dude; his first vintage was 2013. Migot’s family has been working the vineyards around here for some 13 generations. Thus he has some pretty concrete ideas of what he will and won’t do. The estate, only five hectares in size, is certified organic and the vineyard work is impressive. If these sites aren’t famous, they are loved. You can feel it (and you can see it). Every grape is hand-harvested. In the cellar, Camille is part of the younger generation looking past the “technologies” of the past few decades and returning to something more basic. All fermentations are carried out by natural yeasts. Élevage can be in both stainless steel or neutral oak; bottling is carried out with only the lightest of filtering.”

 

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Wein-Erbhof Stein Secco Sparkling Rose Mosel 2020 750ML ($29.95) $26 special

Importer note “Steep slate soils. Second fermentation in tank. Pinot Noir with approximately 20% Cabernet and Merlot, élevage all stainless.”

Sparkling wine.

 

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A riotously fragrant release, this shows notes of dried lemon zest, sea salt, lime flower, and pear tart. Its creamy mouthfeel balances the bright, palate-cleansing acidity. One of the finest vintages to date.

Crowley Four Winds Vineyard Chardonnay, Willamette Valley 2019 750ML ($59.95) $49

Winery note “Jasmine, lemongrass and salty mist jump out of the glass initially. Striking minerality melts into honeysuckle nectar on the palate. Earthen complexity is backed by apricot and white peach which lead into an incredibly long finish. A touch of wood frames this wine with firm structure. Wente, Dijon & Draper clones.  Native fermentation. 200 cases.”

 

A reserved nose hints at red forest berries, iodine, and loam. There’s layers of flavors on the palate, with tart red berries, rose petals, gentian, tea berries and soy. Its austerity hides a subtle, lingering richness that melts into fine, grippy tannins on the finish. Bravo!

 

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Crowley Four Winds Vineyard Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2019 750ML ($59.95) $49 special

Winery note “Cool aromas of tangerine tea mingled with spicy sativa weave into ripe cherry. This intriguing nose leads into an airy palate layered with pomegranate, mushroom and lean strawberry. Acidity is crisp and determined and framed by a complex and restrained fruit profile. 100% Pommard clone. Native fermentation. 200 cases.”

 

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Ross & Bee Maloof ‘Wax on Wax Soif’ Applegate Valley 2020 750ML ($26.95) $24 special, 12 bottles in stock now

Winery note “This is a very cold, riverside vineyard owned by the farmers Ron and Laurie Burley since 1989, when they retired from their careers in the semiconductor industry. They planted the site in 1993. Herb Quady consults on the farming. Location – Applegate Valley AVA. Vineyard stats – 47 acres, 1250ft elevation. Planted in 1993. Farming – Organically farmed, in transition for certification. Soil types – Granite, river sedimentary. Grapes – 52% Syrah, 18% Grenache Noir, 15% Viognier, 15% Marsanne. Co-fermented on the skins for 7 days with daily punchdowns before being pressed off and moved to stainless steel to finish fermentation. After primary fermentation, the wine is moved to neutral oak barrels. Bottled unfined, unfiltered.”

 

 

Foradori ‘Lezer’ Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT Trentino-Alto Adige2020 750ML ($27.95) $24 special,

 

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Avignonesi ‘Poggetto di Sopra’ Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2016 ($69.95) $59 special,

Decanter 96 points “Virginie Saverys and Max Zarobe reset Montepulciano’s most famous name, Avignonesi, having bought it outright in 2009. This beautifully constructed, site-specific Sangiovese is juicy and smooth, its textural richness showcasing Vino Nobile’s intrinsic generosity without letting it become confused and burdensome as before. Drinking Window 2021 – 2030.”

Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 94+ points “Made with organic fruit, the 2016 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Poggetto di Sopra is a silky and pure Tuscan red, with the natural fruit intensity and the acidity to pair with a hearty baked eggplant dish. The bouquet is fragrant and bright with dried cherry, cassis, smoke, tar and burning ember. This bottle is part of the Alliance Vinum, or the small group of estates dedicated to safeguarding Vino Nobile and the culture surrounding this historic wine appellation. Each producer in the alliance makes a single-vineyard expression of Sangiovese, and this is the contribution from the forward-thinking Avignonesi estate.”

Kerin O’keefe-Wine Enthusiast 94 points “Balsamic whiffs of camphor align with ripe dark-skinned fruit, exotic spice and leather aromas. Vibrant and linear, the elegantly structured palate features dried black cherry, cassis and licorice before a coffee-bean finish. It’s still young so give it time to fully develop. Drink 2023–2036.”

 

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Domaine Olivier Pithon Mon P’tit Pithon IGP Cotes Catalanes2020 750ML ($19.95) $16.60 special,

IGP Cotes Catalanes/ Roussillon. Grenache (34%), Mourvedre (33%), Syrah (33%)

 

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Weingut Donnhoff Riesling Nahe 2020 750ML ($26.95) $20.90 special,

James Suckling 92 points “So effusive thanks to the cornucopia of white peach and yellow apple, but also floral notes. Super fresh and juicy on the medium-bodied palate and the brilliant finish is barely off-dry. From organically grown grapes with Fair’n Green certification. Drink now. Screw cap.”

Importer Note “The idea here is to make a village wine, basically, though it’s sold and marketed as a Gutswein or Estate bottled basic wine. The Estate wine combines the two major soils that dominate the holdings for the estate, giving the drinker a look into what Dönnhoff is all about. The basic wine is a calling card and thus Cornelius wants to make statement.”

 

Weingut Donnhoff Riesling Trocken Nahe 2020 750ML ($26.95) $20.90 special,

James Suckling 92 points “Very fresh, sleek and straight with a slew of summer-fruit and citrus aromas and a super-refreshing, crisp finish. Mostly from little-known vineyard sites in Oberhausen. From organically grown grapes with Fair’n Green certification. Drink now. Screw cap.”

Importer Note “Grape: Riesling. Vineyard: Mostly from Oberhauser Felsenberg (volcanic), Kieselberg (slate).

Soil:The vines grow in stony, weathered volcanic soils of porphyry and melaphyr in particular, with certain amounts of slate and quartzite.

Wine making: Fermentations occur is a combination of stainless & used large oak”

 

Weingut Donnhoff Oberhauser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett Nahe 2020 750ML ($34.95) $26 special,

James Suckling 94 points “Some people think only the Mosel can produce stunning Kabinetts, but this is pristine and pure, so racy and uplifiting. You barely feel the natural grape sweetness, but its a vital element of this wine. Super-clean finish. From organically grown grapes with Fair’n Green certification. Drink or hold. Screw cap.”

Importer Note “Traditional, precise Kabinett with delicate slate aromatics. Nuanced finesse and spicy acidity. The Leistenberg vineyard lies in a small side valley of the Nahe just outside Oberhausen. The name is a double play on words. “Leisten ” means “achieve ” in German, and the Leistenberg perpetually lives up to its name. “Lei ” is also a regional word for slate, and these warm, decomposed clay slate soils and steep terraced hillsides provide ideal conditions for Riesling to thrive. Th e southeast-facing slope basks in the morning sun, which dries out any excess moisture and promotes healthy fruit. Th e afternoon sun is less powerful, nurturing a long ripening period and moderate alcohol levels. An ideal vineyard for Kabinett wines of high minerality and sophisticated elegance.”

 

Weingut Donnhoff Kreuznacher Krotenpfuhl Riesling Kabinett Nahe 2020 750ML ($34.95) $25.50 special,

James Suckling 93 points “Lovely fruit-salad and fresh-mint nose. Juicy and joyful, this has so much freshness, the hint of green apple at the crisp finish accentuating this. Good length. From organically grown grapes with Fair’n Green certification. Drink now. Screw cap.”

Importer Note “The loess loam soil of the Kro¨tenpfuhl vineyard is notable for its high share of gravelly quarzite. Between the stony ground and its southern aspect, this neighbor to the Kahlenberg is known for warm soils and early flowering of the vines year after year. The loess loam substrate retains water well, ensuring the vines have sufficient moisture even in drought years. Vines growing in this type of pebbly soil tend to produce small berries with delicate aromas, a lively acidity and a long hang time.”

 

Peter Lauer Feils Biebelhausem Riesling Fass 13 Grosse Lage GG Mosel 2019 750ML ($79.95) $69 special,

Stuart Pigott-Jamessuckling 97 points “Very seductive, stone-fruit nose with floral overtones, then a very concentrated but perfectly proportioned palate that has so much finesse through the very long, silky finish that sparkles with minerals. Drink or hold.”

 

Peter Lauer Ayler Kupp Fass 18 Grosses Gewächs Mosel 2019 750ML ($79.95) $69 special, 6 bottles in stock now

Stuart Pigott-Jamessuckling 95 points “Peach and creamy, succulent and dreamy, this is a very beautiful Saar wine that wants you to drop everything and sink into its richness and subtlety. Spot-on harmony! Drink or hold.”

Mosel Fine Wines 93 points “The 2019er Kupp Fass 18 GG, as it is referred to on the consumer label, comes from the central part of the original Kupp hill. It offers a beautiful albeit backward nose made of spices, herbs, smoke, and minerals, with a touch of cardamom floating around. The wine is impactful yet precise on the palate and leaves a slightly intense but beautifully defined feel of ripe fruits, spices, and herbs in the finish. The after-taste is juicy, dry, and very persistent. This is a gorgeous expression of dry Saar Riesling in the making! 2024-2031”

 

Cresti Fattoria Carpineta Fontalpino Do ut des Toscana IGT Tuscany 2016 750ML ($54.95) $48 special,

Case-6 Cresti Fattoria Carpineta Fontalpino Do ut des Toscana IGT Tuscany 2016 ($349.95) $269 special, (That’s only $44.83 per bottle!)  

James Suckling 95 points “The fruit here really takes your breath away with its intensity, as well as purity. Blackberry crumble, pressed violets, ink, iodine, charcoal, vanilla and resin. It’s the polish of the tannins that really makes this wine, carrying itself effortlessly over a shimmer of electric acidity to the long finish. Drink in 2023. Made from organically grown grapes.”

Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 94 points “The 2016 Do Ut Des (a blend of Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon) exhibits a generous and expansive personality that hits the palate like a warm embrace from a favorite friend. This is a succulent and smooth red wine with thick layers of bold cherry, dried blackberry, leather, rose hip and scorched earth. In the mouth, the wine proceeds with medium- to full-bodied texture and elegantly contoured fruit flavors.”

Wine Spectator 94 points “Sleek and focused, with black currant, black cherry, plum, iron and tobacco flavors coursing through from start to finish. Tightly wound and vibrant, this lingers with subtle licorice and spice elements. Shows fine harmony and length. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Best from 2023 through 2036. 1,650 cases made, 200 cases imported. — BS”

 

This is the only listing in the USA today!

 

 

Mancino ‘Sakura’ Vermouth Italy 500ML ($49.95) $39 special,

Winery note “The limited edition of Mancino Vermouth with cherry blossoms from Kyoto and Italian Viola flowers, reveals Giancarlo’s culinary infatuation with Japan and Italy. A perfect blend of 20 botanicals based on Italian white wines with a distinct bitter taste on the palate given by the wormwood and a sweetness given by the flowers. This magical harmony with Japan is celebrated with the production of only 4000 bottles per year. 18% Vol.”

 

Yzaguirre Dry Reserva Vermouth Catalonia NV 1L ($27.95) $24 special,

Winery note “With a light straw yellow colour, Yzaguirre Reserva Dry Vermouth initially has a very alcoholic taste in the mouth yet perfectly balanced with its acidity. Highly glyceric, it is velvety and smooth in the mouth with notes of wood, herbs and spices. It is aged for one year in oak barrels which helps to stabilize the aroma and colour of the blend.”

 

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Fresh off the Botti: Two Knockouts just in from Chianti

 

2016 and 2018 are forging a reputation in Tuscany for being vintages that incorporate the best aspects of a ripe vintage while still maintaining structure and elegance. Both vintages are highlighted for their ideal weather during the season that never resulted in heat spikes, with acidity being maintained by cool breezes at night. There is hardly a better producer to exemplify this than Rocca di Montegrossi of Chianti.

 

With a family history in their home village of Monti dating back to the year 700; and being credited with the “Original Chianti” blend they’re a benchmark producer like no other. Half of their estate is still blanketed in the ancestral forest, farmed organically since 2006, and is one of the highest elevation sites in the entire appellation. These factors converge to create Chianti of unmatched refinement; delivering the classic sour cherry, espresso, and leather with a backbone of terra cotta and dusty loam.

 

Never content to sit on their laurels, Montegrossi also produce a super Tuscan inspired blend derived from the small plantings of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon that grow onsite. In comparison to the cask aging seen by the Chianti classico, the Geremia sees a “Modern” vinification with entirely French oak barrels.

 

 

Rocca di Montegrossi Chianti Classico DOCG Tuscany 2018 750ML ($29.95) $21.90 special, 24 bottles in stock now

Antonio Galloni 93 points “The 2018 Chianti Classico opens with a burst of sweet red berry fruit, spice and wild flowers. Exuberant and racy, the 2018 is endowed with tremendous energy and tons of personality. Time in the glass brings out the wine’s inner sweetness and radiance, with a closing flourish of red flowers. This is a fabulous wine for the money. Don’t miss it.”

Wine & Spirits 93 points “Winter rains in 2018 brought welcome relief from the drought of the previous year, according to Rocca di Montegrossi’s proprietor, Marco Ricasoli-Firidolfi, and while many areas of Tuscany suffered from humid conditions during the summer, his estate’s position in the high, well-ventilated hills of Gaiole kept his grapes healthy. The result is a dark and savory wine packed with rich black-cherry flavors and subtle spice notes, all underlined by firm, slatey tannins. It shows formidable substance and ripeness compared to some of the lighter wines coming out of this vintage and will develop well over the next several years.”

 

 

 

Also by Rocca di Montegrossi

Arriving ETA 08/27

 

Rocca di Montegrossi Geremia Toscana IGT Tuscany 2016 750ML ($69.95) $49 special, 24 bottles in stock now

Antonio Galloni 95 points “The 2016 Geremia is a total knock-out. An exotic mélange of sweet dark cherry, plum, chocolate, licorice, spice and menthol races out of the glass. The 2016 is deep, dense and full of character. It is also easy to drink with minimal cellaring. Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon work so well here in the way they express richness and structure, all with a real sense of Tuscan raw power.”

 

 

Arriving ETA 08/24/21

 

Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin La Grande Dame Brut Champagne 2008 750ML ($159.95) $138 special,

Decanter 97 points “Now almost blanc de noirs, boasting 92% Pinot Noir and just 8% Chardonnay from 60%-70% estate vineyards. La Grande Dame is one of the most affordable of Champagne’s elite prestige set, and the stunning 2008 vintage was intricately engineered by the masterful Dominique Demarville for the long haul. It unites all of the enduring potential of its thundering grands crus with the tension and energy of this legendary season, colliding high-tensile acidity with deep, fine, powdery chalk minerality, bringing its finish into stark focus. Drinking Window 2020 – 2048.”

Wine Spectator 95 points “An elegant Champagne, powered by a sculpted frame of acidity and minerality, this wears the refined, lacy mousse and well-meshed flavors of black currant, lemon curd, toast and marzipan like finely tailored clothing. Fresh and lasting, with hints of spice and smoke on the finish. Disgorged August 2016. Drink now through 2033. “

Wine & Spirits 95 points “This is a sunny and delicious 2008, with brightness infusing the wine, from its platinum color to its mineral intensity, transforming its richness and power into cool elegance. Notes of agave and cassia bark add depth, suggesting the complexity this will develop with further bottle age.”

Peter Liem 3*/3* “Starting with this vintage, the proportion of pinot noir in La Grande Dame has been significantly increased, and in fact, the 2008 is almost a blanc de noirs, with 92 percent pinot noir and just 8 percent chardonnay (historically the blend was typically 50 to 60 percent pinot noir). While it displays the deep resonance and dark concentration of fruit that’s characteristic of the vintage, it remains elegant and fine, with a silky texture and a lively, elongated structure. It finishes with terrific length and poise, showing a complex and authoritative depth of flavor, yet it’s also still notably youthful and tightly wound even twelve years after the vintage, and it seems to indicate a long and slow development ahead of it. Patience, though, will undoubtedly be rewarded, and this feels as if it could turn out to be one of the finest examples of this cuvée in a long time.”

 

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Torre Beati : Cult Cerasuolo at a fraction of the cost

Looking for a rose made next door to one of the most sought after cult wines of Italy? Torre Beati is an organic estate located in the foothills of Gran Sasso d’Italia, the highest of the Appenine Mountains. Originally planted in 1972 to the traditional abruzzese style of Pergola and always farmed organically, their only neighbors are the illustrious Valentini estate (whose bottles sell for hundreds a bottle on release). The estate eschews all chemical inputs, including fungicides in order to allow for the purest expression of Abruzzo possible. 

Made in the cerasuolo style of rose from Montepulciano D’Abruzzo grapes that’s traditional to the region; its name is derived from the Italian word for cherry and certainly lives up to that in both color and primary flavors. There’s an entire spectrum of red fruit to be perceived like pomegranate and cherry juice with botanicals like marjoram, hibiscus and basil at play. There’s a savory acid structure knitting everything together beautifully on the finish, making it sturdy enough to pair with anything spicy. Oaxacan mole, Moroccan tagine, or Szechuan chicken would make a symphony of flavor when paired with this wine.     

 

In Stock and Available now: 

 

Torre dei Beati ‘Rosa-ae’ Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo Italy 2019 750ML ($21.95) $16 special, 33 bottles in stock now

Region: Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo, Abruzzo, Italy. 100% Montepulciano.

 

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You would be hard pressed to find a more picturesque growing region than the village of Cassis. Plucked straight out of a Monet painting, it was a fishing village historically before tourism and the wine industry proved more profitable. Domaine Bagnol is a fixture in this scene, making some of the most compelling rose in all of southern France.

Farmed organically and biodynamically since the estate’s inception in the 1980’s; the Bagnol estate is blessed with the Cap Canaille to her back and the Tramontane, Mistral and Gregal winds to the front. These climatic variables create lifted aromatics and acidity, and slow ripening to allow for allow for more varietal character. Direct pressed from 55 year old bushvines of Grenache, Mourvèdre and Cinsault this is a rose that’s packed with flavor in spite of the pale color. Summer peach, watermelon flesh, strawberry, and herbs d’ provence with a refreshing, saline finish that speaks to Bagnol’s proximity to the Mediterranean Sea.

 

In stock and available now:

 

Domaine du Bagnol Cassis Rose Provence 2020 750ML ($37.95) $31.90 special, 7 bottles in stock now

Rosenthal Wine Merchant note “Cassis Rosé: The Rosé is produced from several parcels that comprise slightly less than 7 hectares of vineyards. The vineyards are clay and limestone, situated on a gentle slope with a north – northwest exposure. The blend is Grenache (55%), Mourvedre (31%) and Cinsault (14%). This Rosé is vinified by “pressurage direct, the must is chilled to 12 degrees Celsius, the wine ferments at 18 degrees Celsius until it is completely dry; then, the wine is bottled during the first three months of the following year after a light filtration.

 

 

Caruso E Minini vs Calabretta

 

This match-up pits the Far Western and Eastern portions of the island of Sicly together. Unlike few places in the world, the entire island of Sicily produces wine, including the world famous fortified wine Marsala. In that same vein, Etna is one of the highest growing area in all of Europe with sites as high as 4,300 feet above sea level!                              

 

Representing the Western village of Marsala we have Caruso E Minini, who’s portfolio is entirely comprised of indigenous Sicilian varietals, with reds being Nero D’Avola and the exceedingly rare Perricone. Once widely planted in Sicily like Nero D’Avola, it was particularly susceptible to Phylloxera and saw a massive decline in plantings as a result. Liked to Barbara by wine writer and critic, Jancis Robinson it’s a juicy yet herbaceous red that is spectacular with pizza or anything else based in red sauce.

 

Caruso has been making wine since the late 1800’s. However it wasn’t until the 1990’s did they ever bottle their own wine, previously contracting out to the cooperatives of Marsala. With vineyards located only 12 miles from the ocean; encompassing almost 300 acres at almost 1000 feet above sea level these are some of the best examples of “New Sicily” winemaking and production. Caruso has also been one of the first producers in Marsala to convert to organic farming practices, a practice abandoned in previous decades to maximize yields.

 

Representing Mt. Etna we have Calabretta, one of the most highly regarded grower producers in all of Catania. Their commitment to chemical free farming, stewarding old vines and meticulous winemaking is evident in every bottle of wine they make. The high elevation of Mt.Etna, intense sunshine and marginal soils create an incredible expression of reds, whites and Rosado. In spite of Mt.Etna’s comparisons to Burgundy, the traditional winemaking styles could be mistaken for Barolo with the long macerations and use of botti for élevage. Calabretta is one of the masters of this style and delivers rusticity and elegance with every bottle in a way that only premium Italian wine is.

The traditional red grapes of Mt. Etna include the sibling grapes Nerello Mascalese and Cappuccio, who are usually found planted together in the vineyard and blended in the cellar. Compared to Nebbiolo by wine critics; the best examples are highly perfumed, fruit driven, and feature brusque tannin structure with an earthy/smoky finish.    

 

Both of these producers work with the native varietal Cattaratto, which takes on radically different expressions depending on the growing conditions, as clearly evidenced by the bottlings side-by-side. The Cattaratto from Caruso is richer and more full bodied, with the bottling from Calabretta featuring a more linear and mineral character. For a meal that featured delicate flavors, seafood or greens the Calabretta would be the perfect accompaniment; with something more robust like chicken, stews or curries being a dream with the Caruso E Minini. We carry an assortment of both producers in house, and invite you to compare them for yourself.

 

In Stock and Available now: 

 

Caruso & Minini Naturalmente Bio Catarratto Sicilia Sicily 2020 750ML ($ 21.95) $18 special, 22 bottles in stock now

No reviews available for the 2020 vintage. 2019 review provided for reference.

Wine Enthusiast 90 points “Made entirely with organically framed Catarratto grapes, this zesty white opens with aromas of Spanish broom, chamomile and white stone fruit. The savory, linear palate offers juicy Meyer lemon, honeydew and Bartlett pear alongside bright acidity. It closes on an almond note. -Kerin O’Keefe”

 

This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast today!

 

 

Caruso & Minini ‘Naturalmente Bio’ Perricone Terre Siciliane 2019 750ML ($21.95) $18 special, 31 bottles in stock now

 

Caruso & Minini Naturalmente Bio Nero d’Avola Sicilia 2019 750ML ($21.95) $18 special, 23 bottles in stock now

Wine Enthusiast 88 points “Made with organic grapes, this has aromas of ripe black-skinned berry, new leather and crushed Mediterranean herb. On the medium-bodied palate, polished tannins accompany ripe Marasca cherry, star anise and a hint of carob. Bright acidity keeps it fresh. Drink through 2022. -Kerin O’Keefe”   

 

Caruso & Minini ‘Terre di Giumara’ Frappato – Nerello Mascalese Terre Siciliane 2019 750ML ($17.95) $14.90 special, 8 bottles in stock now

 

 

Red, White, Pink…Orange?

 

Have you ever wondered what wines resembled thousands of years ago before the Industrial Revolution and Phylloxera? What about if you took the process of rose, but substituted white wine grapes instead of using red? Enter one of the oldest forms of winemaking on earth: Orange wine. Native to Eastern Europe and small parts of northeastern Italy, the style dates back over 5,000 years and utilized local grape varietals and ceramic fermentation vessels. The process results in a wine that ranges from deep gold, to various shades of saffron and carrot orange, hence the name. Due to the inclusion of skin and seed tannin, these are wines that are built with aging potential with an evolution in the bottle that’s entirely unique to the style.   

In orange wine’s ancestral home of Georgia, the ceramics are called qvevri and are partially buried underground to act as temperature control during fermentation and the subsequent resting period, with this practice being mimicked around the world. The extended skin contact results in a wine with more rustic flavors like yuzu, quince and bitter orange, in addition to a richer texture and a slightly tannic finish. We carry an entire assortment of Orange wines from around the world, ranging from some of the biggest cult winemakers in the world like Paolo Bea, Daterra Lorenzo, Giusto Occhipinti and Alberto Nanclares to locally made examples from Maloof

 

In Stock and Available now: 

 

Gravner Ribolla Venezia Giulia IGT Friuli-Venezia Giulia 2011 750ML ($99.95) $79 special, 9 bottles in stock now

Decanter 93 points “Glorious vivid amber colour. Elegant and complex with aromas of dried fruits, earth, citrus zest, and honey. Amazing for its age.”

Importer note “Exclusively composed of the local Ribolla grape; fermented in Georgian amphorae buried underground; long maceration with wild yeasts and no temperature control; after fermentation, the wine rests again in amphorae for five more months and then is aged in large oak barrels for an additional six years; bottled without fining or filtering. Certified organic.”

 

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

 

Paolo Bea ‘Lapideus’ Bianco Umbria IGT 2016 750ML ($79.95) $59 special, 6 bottles in stock now

Importer Note “Giampiero acquired a parcel of 80-year-old Trebbiano Spoletino in the town of Pigge di Trevi several years back, and 2016 marks just the third vintage of this exciting new addition to the Bea lineup. Arising from a cooler microclimate than the “Arboreus” above, “Lapideus” spent a month on it skins after pressing, followed by over 200 additional days on the gross lees—a similar vinification to “Arboreus,” yet one that yielded markedly different results. “Lapideus” has a leaner, racier carriage than the broad-shouldered “Arboreus,” with a more precise sense of acidity; it emphasizes drive over density, and its underlying salinity is not a far cry from the spellbinding wines we import from Paolo Vodopivec in the Carso—incidentally, a dear friend of Giampiero and a fellow ViniVeri administrator. A subtle note of honeyed sweetness at the wine’s core speaks of its warm-climate origins, and Bea’s propensity for wildness reveals itself in a fascinating but ephemeral cheese-rind whisper in its aromatics. Only 745 bottles were produced, the vast majority of which are destined for the US market.”

 

This is the only listing in the USA today!

 

 

Paolo Bea Santa Chiara Bianco Umbria IGT 2017 750ML ($59.95) $49 special, 18 bottles in stock now

Importer Note “The second of Bea’s two early and highly influential skin-macerated white wines, “Santa Chiara” hails from the fabled Pagliarocru, and combines roughly equal proportions of five varieties: Garganega, Grechetto, Malvasia, Sauvignon, and Chardonnay. Everything ferments together, without any additions or temperature regulation, in stainless steel, and the wine is given several years of settling before being bottled without fining or filtration. The rich, forward 2017 spent 28 days on its skins, and was bottled in May 2019 after 20 months of aging. Compared to the relatively racy 2013 “Arboreus” and the typically chiseled 2016 “Lapideus,” this vintage of “Santa Chiara” swaggers out of the bottle with macerated peaches, brassy spice notes, a liberal dash of white pepper, and candied citrus. Despite its somewhat explosive and brash personality, it possesses terrific drive and a focused, tannin-derived sense of architecture.”

 

Azienda Agricola Cos Pithos Terre Siciliane Bianco IGT 2019 750ML ($49.95) $39 special, 11 bottles in stock now

Grapelive 93 points “[The] Pithos Bianco is, as the name suggests, a white wine made in the large terra-cotta pots as done in ancient times…. Macerated for close to two weeks with whole berries and aged on the skins this incredible dry wine shows a unique, intensity and powerful structure from the extract and is wonderfully textured on the zesty palate. Made from 100% of the Grecanico grape, a local variety of Garganega (of Soave fame), quite rare, but remarkably well suited to the southern tip of the island, where it gets a cooling ocean influence and breezes that help retain a salty freshness…. Azienda Agricola COS was founded back in 1980 by three friends, Giambattista Cilia, Giusto Occhipinti, and Cirino Strano, but is led by the dynamic personality of Giusto Occhipinti, uncle to superstar Arianna Occhipinti, who was pushed COS towards natural winemaking and all organic with all of their vineyards being… The winery explains that the long skin contact and amphora, which allows movement of the lees, provides an additional level of complexity that can be seen clearly in this exotic white wine”

Eric Guido – Vinous 91 points “The 2019 Bianco Pithos, a varietal Grecanico, is a pale golden color in the glass, presenting a nose of pungent spring flowers, musky notes of apricot, pear and a hint of animal musk. This is soft and pliant in feel, with ripe orchard fruits offset by zesty yellow citrus, as a coating of liquid inner florals saturates deeply. Residual acids maintain balance and a juicy persona, as gobs of minerals and gingery spice linger long. The Bianco Pithos spends a month on the skins post-fermentation, followed by another seven months refining in amphora. While this has the sometimes quirky and nervous personality of an orange wine, it’s also very easy to like.”

 

Vegas Altas Orange Vino de la Tierra de Extremadura 2020 750ML ($21.95) $19 special, 28 bottles in stock now

A blend of Cayetana and Pardina.

Region: Extremadura, Spain. Biodynamic.            

 

Daterra Viticultores ‘Camino de la Frontera’ Blanco Castilla y Leon 2018 ($49.95) $39 special, 7 bottles in stock now

Importer note “Camino de la Frontera Blanco comes from Angel’s ancient, northwest-facing vineyard in the Parque Natural de Los Arribes del Duero, from native Malvasia, Verdejo & Puesta en Cruz varieties. After a cool, wet & humid summer, the grapes were hand-harvested on September 20th, destemmed, crushed and wild yeast fermented in used 250 & 500L chestnut barrels with 10 days of skin maceration, then raised in the same vessels for 11 months. This is a “mountain white” showing bright orchard fruit, savory minerality and refreshing acidity. Pair it with grilled fish and poultry, paella and good friends.”

 

Nanclares y Prieto ‘Crisopa’ Branco Tradicional Galicia 2018 750ML ($69.95) $59 special, 20 bottles in stock now

Luis Gutierrez – Wine Advocate 94 points “The completely unusual “orange” wine is a bright amber Albariño macerated with skins during the fermentation. The 2018 Crisopa, produced with grapes from the same vineyard as Soberrivas, has a completely different nose and a brighter and deeper color than any previous vintage. Perhaps the grapes were smaller and there might be more skins for the juice, and the wine underwent malolactic (at least partially). There are notes of apple liqueur, pollen and beeswax, and the palate is finely tannic. Here, the process overpowers the variety and place. It has lower acidity than most of the wines from the winery, but this is one of the finest examples of the type. It should develop nicely in bottle. 636 bottles were filled in August 2019.”

Importer note “Crisopa Branco Tradicional comes from the same parcel as “Soverribas” (Paraje Manzaniña) but is picked one day earlier to select the best bunches. After a wet and cool spring and summer, it turned dry and hot in August, with hand-harvesting on Sept. 10th through Oct. 6th. The grapes were foot-trodden in open plastic vats with 100% whole-clusters, and then skin-fermented for 20 days in a steel vat. After a vertical press the wine is racked into a used 500L French oak cask, where it rests for 11 months on the lees with battonage for first 3 months, before being bottled on Aug. 21st (fruit day) without clarification, filtration and only modest amounts of SO2. A fascinating and extremely textured Vinho Branco made in the style of the ancients!”

 

Chateau Vieux Moulin Vin Orange ‘Pulp’ 2020 750ML ($26.95) $21.90, 12 bottles in stock now

Importer note “100% skin contact Grenache gris. 100% destemmed. Maceration for one month in tank. Fermnetation under temperature control in steel vats. 100% malo. No filtration. No SO2 added.”

 

Ross & Bee Maloof ‘Beckenridge Vineyard’ Gewurztraminer Willamette Valley 2020 ($34.95) $26 special, 8 bottles in stock now

Winery note “Own rooted, dry farmed, planted in 1976. Organic farming program, in 2nd ‘transition year’ for Organic certification through Oregon TILTH. Fermented until dry on the skins (16 days) in open top fermenters. Pressed off and moved into neutral burgundy barrels for 8 months. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. Black tea, rose petals, and sea salt. Serve chilled or at cellar temp with bitter greens and alpine cheeses. Or with pizza, serve all our wines with pizza.”

 

This is the only listing in the USA today!

 

 

Staff Pick:

 

Cellar Del Roure: Rarity of Valencia

Founded by Pablo Calatayud in 1995, Cellar Del Roure has made a name for itself by bucking tradition. This is no better illustrated than by Safra, made with the indigenous varietal Mando, using traditional lagar and amphorae during fermentation to preserve the natural structure and earthy flavors. Mando is described as being similar to Pinot Noir or Mencia and is largely extinct even within Valencia. This is largely due to Valencia’s history as breadbasket for Spanish agriculture, producing massive quantities of wine, olive oil and most famously oranges. This led to  massive plantings of grapevines meant for bulk wine production, at the cost of historically premium sites and varietals.

 

Celler del Roure ‘Safra’Valencia 2019 750ML ($29.95) $24 special, 36+ bottles in stock now

Luis Gutierrez-Wine Advocate 94 Points “The 2019 Safrà was produced with a base of Mandó, but it’s a different Mandó from Parotet, livelier and more fluid. They say it’s a red with the soul of a white. In any case, both wines change in 2019 with the addition of Arcos. They harvest the grapes early and use some 30% stems for the vinification in stainless steel with indigenous yeasts. This 2019 is a blend with 30% Arcos, an almost forgotten grape they are recovering and to which they are paying very much attention. Like many of the other wines, it matured in ancient buried 2,600-liter tinajas in their impressive 17th-century cellar. I’ve always liked the floral and aromatic expression of this wine, which has nice aromas and complexity, developing beautiful notes of sour cherries; and in the palate, it’s more serious than you expect, longer, deeper and very tasty. This is more ethereal than Vermell and less spicy that Parotet. I think it has gained in freshness and complexity with the addition of Arcos, which is part of the blend for the first time in 2019. In fact, this is better than ever! 20,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in June 2020.”

Decanter 93 Points “Mainly Mandó grapes with Arcos (rather than Garnacha Tintorera as in previous blends) – a change that brings greater finesse to this aromatic wine. Bright, mid-weight, juicy, with sour cherries and cranberries and the faintest rasp of tannin. Fermented in stainless steel and matured in buried clay amphorae in the remarkable cellar. Organic. Drinking Window 2021 – 2024. -Sarah Jane Evans MW.”

 

Celler del Roure ‘Safra’ Valencia 2017 750ML ($24.95) $21.90 special, 36+ bottles in stock now

Case-12 Celler Del Roure Safra 2017 750ML ($379.95) $239 special (That’s only 19.91 per bottle)

Luis Gutierrez-Wine Advocate 93 Points “The third vintage of my favorite red, the 2017 Safrà is from an early and low-yielding year when they got larger grapes that delivered fresher and more fluid wines than a normal warm year. It fermented with 30% full clusters in stainless steel vats, and like all of these wines, it didn’t see any oak; it matured exclusively in 2,600-liter clay “tinaja” for six months. It’s floral and subtle, super elegant, without any excess, expressive and perfumed. The palate is equally elegant, with very fine tannins, good freshness and very tasty, almost salty flavors. This has to be the finest vintage for this wine. Even if 2017 can be similar to 2015, this feels more balanced and complete. Most of the wines are a bargain, and this is a steal.”

This is the only listing in the USA today!

 

Collectors Corner: Boulay

 

“Given the crystalline purity of his Sauvignon Blancs, he has become one of my favorite producers of the central Loire. If you want to know what true Sancerre tastes like, try one of his single-vineyard bottlings. It does not come any better!” – Joel Payne, Vinous

 

You’ve heard of Didier Dagueneau and his $150+ Sancerre’s, but have you heard of Gerard Boulay?

Gerard Boulay is one of the handful of producers in the world that makes exceptionally age worthy, collectible and profound Sauvignon Blanc’s from his family’s estate. This is a cult level producer that’s still at an accessible price point. It’s remarkable that these wines are available on the open market, considering the Boulay family has been known for exceptional quality since the 14th century as the Cathedral of Bourges “Church white”.

 

We were able to secure a complete assortment of their portfolio, ranging from their entry level wines to their rarest and most collectible labels. For the prices that Boulay charges, these are some of the most electric and profound whites in all of France. While low-tier Sancerre always seems overpriced, the top producers in the region make extraordinary wines that seem to be completely undervalued (with the obvious exception of Vatan). 2019 and 2020 were fantastic years in the Loire and Boulay has had some of the best bottles in his career during this unprecedented streak of “Good to Exceptional” vintages.

 

Boulay’s vineyards are based in Chavignol, the true beating heart of Sancerre and the host of all the best names in the region (Vatan, the Cotats, Boulay, Dagueneau, etc.) and Boulay owns some of best located sites in some of the best vineyards in the town.  From his parcel in La Grande Cote to Monts Damnes to the famed Clos Beaujeu, all of his wines ring with terroir and the unique minerality that’s inherent to Chavignol. Gerard Boulay says “Nature makes the wine” and strives for age worthiness above all else, having examples of his work dating back to the 1960’s still drinking beautifully. The estate’s farming is entirely chemical free, and was one of the first producers in the region to convert to organics. If that isn’t enough, he also makes a Rose and Pinot Noir from small plantings on the same vineyards! Expect a completely different expression of Pinot Noir that’s largely unseen in today’s market dominated by powerhouse region’s like Burgundy, Germany and the United States. 

 

Gerard Boulay Sancerre Chavignol 2020 750ML ($39.95) $33 special, 36+ bottles in stock now

Importer note “Blend of young vine parcels on kimmeridgian slopes in the village of Chavignol.”

 

Gerard Boulay Sancerre Rose Chavignol 2020 750ML ($37.95) $29 special, 23 bottles in stock now

Importer note “Practicing organic. From 35-40 year old Pinot Noir vines on the steep hillsides in front of the Boulay home in Chavignol. Soil: Steep clay hillside. Viticulture: Gerard works the soil manually and lets nature make the wine. Vinification: Tank fermented. Boulay adds no yeast and minimal amounts of SO2. Aging: Tank aged. Production: 200 cases annually. Notes: Unlike many Sancerre Roses, Gerard harvests his Pinot specifically to make rose by direct press, then into tank. It is not a selection of young vines as he has no young Pinot vines. What makes the rosé one year could make red another, and vice versa, depending on what the vintage gives.”

 

Gerard Boulay Sancerre Clos De Beaujeu 2019 1.5L ($179.95) $105 special, 3 bottles in stock now

Gerard Boulay Sancerre Clos De Beaujeu 2019 750ML ($79.95) $51.90 special, 14 bottles in stock now

Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 92 Points “The unfiltered 2019 Sancerre Clos de Beaujeu comes from vines averaging 45 years of age in a southeast-facing vineyard on loamy Kimmeridgian chalk and opens with an herbal and brightly fruity bouquet. On the palate, this is a clear, fresh, round, fruity and structured Sancerre with bright fruit, some hazelnut nuances and long grip and salinity. Entirely vinified in used barriques for 12 months. Tasted in February 2021.”

 

Gerard Boulay Sancerre Comtesse 2019 1.5L ($219.95) $128 special, 3 bottles in stock now

Gerard Boulay Sancerre Comtesse 2019 750ML ($99.95) $61.90 special, 11 bottles in stock now

Importer Note “From 50-75 year old vines located in the sweet spot of the Mont Dam­nés vineyard (bottom of the slope, near Clos La Neore of Vatan), this is often the most powerful wine from Boulay’s lineup. Vintage 2005 was the inaugural release.”

 

Gerard Boulay Sancerre Mont Damnes 2019 1.5L ($179.95) $119 special, 3 bottles in stock now

Gerard Boulay Sancerre Mont Damnes 2019 750ML ($79.95) $55 special, 8 bottles in stock now

Importer Note “Boulay began farming the steeply sloped Mont Damnés vineyard in 1982. His plot has an average vine age of 45 years. Mont Damnés’ reflective soils and south-facing exposition make it one of Chavi­gnol’s warmest sites. Overall, Gerard Boulay’s ‘terre blanche’ vineyards produce some of the most distinctive and soil-inflected Sauvignon Blancs in the Loire, with a delineation and minerality often reminiscent of a top Chablis. Boulay is certainly among the top examples of the appellation, including Boulay’s neighbors (Cotat Bros., Vatan). These are gorgeous, highly complex wines that are a clear step above ‘regular’ Sancerre, and can age easily for 10-20 years or more. In fact, we have had them all the way back to the 1959 which was magnificent! They confirm Boulay’s place in the top ranks of Loire Valley vignerons.”

 

Gerard Boulay Sancerre La Cote 2019 1.5L ($189.95) $115 special, 3 bottles in stock now

Gerard Boulay Sancerre La Cote 2019 750ML ($85.95) $55 special, 8 bottles in stock now

Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 93 Points “From a southeast-facing plot, the 2019 Sancerre La Côte is pure, deep and intense yet also fresh on the iodine-scented nose, with grip, lemon and tropical notes. The wine opens bright, clear and almost tropical on the nose and then shows tight, tense and lingering salinity and firm grip. Tasted in February 2021.”

 

Gerard Boulay Sancerre Rouge Oriane 2015 750ML ($59.95) $37 special, 23 bottles in stock now

Importer Note “Boulay makes tiny amounts of still red Pinot Noir from these same vineyards as the rose, which are 35-40 year old Pinot Noir vines located on the steep hillsides in front of the his home in Chavignol. Aged in used 300-liter casks.