In Today’s Newsletter:
Wine Spectator’s #1 Wine of 2020
Re-Arrives January
Subscriber Special
Emanuel Darnaud’s Spectacular 2016s
Gulfi: Master of Nero D’Avola
Staff Pick
The Timeless Wines of Casa Castillo
Zorzal’s Navarra Values
Wines of Terroir from Rioja’s Neighbor
Collector’s Corner
Domaine Forey’s Not-Yet-Cult 2017 Burgundies
Wine Spectator’s #1 Wine of 2020
Re-Arrives January
Critics have been gushing over Marqués de Murrieta’s 2010 Castillo de Ygay since its release, omitting few superlatives while praising the wine. So it came as no surprise when it was recently announced as Wine Spectator’s top wine of 2020.
Having already sold the last of our initial allotment, we were able to orchestrate another Vinopolis coup and wrestle another case and half from the local importer. With all the hype surrounding the wine we don’t expect this limited supply to remain available for long however. So if you’re a fan of traditionally made Rioja act quickly, because this is a can’t-miss bottle if there ever was one.
“Maturing well, this round red is a lovely example of the traditional style. Orange peel, dried cherry, forest floor, vanilla and black tea flavors mingle harmoniously over round tannins and citrusy acidity. Generous but gentle, lively, balanced and harmonious. Tempranillo and Mazuelo. Drink now through 2030.” –Wine Spectator
Pre-Arrival ETA January:
Marqués de Murrieta Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial, Rioja DOCa 2010 750ML ($219.95) $199 pre-arrival special
Falstaff Magazine 100 points “[Translated] Dark ruby garnet, violet reflections, subtle brightening of the edges. Fine mint, fine black cherries, fine herbs, fresh heart cherries, mineral and inviting, a multi-faceted, young bouquet. Juicy, complex, elegant, extract-sweet texture, fine round tannins, ripe heart cherries, delicate nougat, sticks for minutes, enormous future potential. Simple calculation: buy what is possible.”
James Suckling 99 points “Marvelous aromas of crushed berries, tobacco, cedar and mushrooms. Some dried cheese. Then turns to flowers. Very complex. Full and intense with fantastic depth and power. It goes on for minutes. It is a wine that exudes tradition but gives a sense of modernity with precise winemaking. Two years in oak, one in concrete and three or four in bottle. Drink on release and age onwards.”
Luis Gutierrez-Wine Advocate 97 points “I had very high expectations for the 2010 Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial, and the wine delivered as expected. 2010 was one of the finest vintages in Rioja in recent years, and this blend of Tempranillo with 15% Mazuelo (Cariñena) has to be one of the finest modern day Castillo de Ygays. The grapes come from a plot planted in 1966 at 485 meters in altitude, the highest in the estate, and the vines yielded 3,500 kilos per hectare. The two varieties fermented separately in stainless steel for 11 days, and the wine spent 26 months in a mixture of American and French oak barrels. I tasted the 2009 next to this 2010, and I had also had a bottle two nights before. So, I was able to compare this with the 2009, which was a very different year, as 2010 was a cooler year and a priori a more adequate year for long-aging wines like this Gran Reserva. The difference was the vegetative cycle, as the vinification and élevage was the same. This is sleeker and sharper, less developed and livelier than the 2009, which already shows some signs of “old wine” with aromas that remind me of the old classical Rioja reds. It has greatness and finesse and is a very attractive wine with all the stuffing and balance that is needed for a long (and positive) aging in bottle. This is one of the finest modern day vintages of Castillo Ygay. This is going to develop in the direction of the classical bottlings from yesteryear. 130,853 bottles produced. It was bottled in March 2015.”
Decanter 97 points “Ygay these days is a blend of Tempranilo and Mazuelo, the later making up 15% in this vintage. 2010 will be remembered in the great vineyards of Europe as a classic year, elegant restraint and wonderful harmonious balance, even in youth, its key characteristics. The Ygay fits this template perfectly; plums and sloes, hints of blueberry and cassis, then figs, cocoa and sousbois, a distinct balsamic note to underline provenance. The Mazuelo etches fresh acidity and a powerful finish, leaving the Tempranillo the opportunity to dance flamboyantly on the mid-palate, the bringer of joy and harmony.”
Wine Spectator 96 points “Maturing well, this round red is a lovely example of the traditional style. Orange peel, dried cherry, forest floor, vanilla and black tea flavors mingle harmoniously over round tannins and citrusy acidity. Generous but gentle, lively, balanced and harmonious. Tempranillo and Mazuelo. Drink now through 2030.”
Having already sold the last of our initial allotment, we were able to orchestrate another Vinopolis coup and wrestle another case and half from the local importer. With all the hype surrounding the wine we don’t expect this limited supply to remain available for long however. So if you’re a fan of traditionally made Rioja act quickly, because this is a can’t-miss bottle if there ever was one.
“Maturing well, this round red is a lovely example of the traditional style. Orange peel, dried cherry, forest floor, vanilla and black tea flavors mingle harmoniously over round tannins and citrusy acidity. Generous but gentle, lively, balanced and harmonious. Tempranillo and Mazuelo. Drink now through 2030.” –Wine Spectator
Pre-Arrival ETA January:
Marqués de Murrieta Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial, Rioja DOCa 2010 750ML ($219.95) $199 pre-arrival special
Falstaff Magazine 100 points “[Translated] Dark ruby garnet, violet reflections, subtle brightening of the edges. Fine mint, fine black cherries, fine herbs, fresh heart cherries, mineral and inviting, a multi-faceted, young bouquet. Juicy, complex, elegant, extract-sweet texture, fine round tannins, ripe heart cherries, delicate nougat, sticks for minutes, enormous future potential. Simple calculation: buy what is possible.”
James Suckling 99 points “Marvelous aromas of crushed berries, tobacco, cedar and mushrooms. Some dried cheese. Then turns to flowers. Very complex. Full and intense with fantastic depth and power. It goes on for minutes. It is a wine that exudes tradition but gives a sense of modernity with precise winemaking. Two years in oak, one in concrete and three or four in bottle. Drink on release and age onwards.”
Luis Gutierrez-Wine Advocate 97 points “I had very high expectations for the 2010 Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial, and the wine delivered as expected. 2010 was one of the finest vintages in Rioja in recent years, and this blend of Tempranillo with 15% Mazuelo (Cariñena) has to be one of the finest modern day Castillo de Ygays. The grapes come from a plot planted in 1966 at 485 meters in altitude, the highest in the estate, and the vines yielded 3,500 kilos per hectare. The two varieties fermented separately in stainless steel for 11 days, and the wine spent 26 months in a mixture of American and French oak barrels. I tasted the 2009 next to this 2010, and I had also had a bottle two nights before. So, I was able to compare this with the 2009, which was a very different year, as 2010 was a cooler year and a priori a more adequate year for long-aging wines like this Gran Reserva. The difference was the vegetative cycle, as the vinification and élevage was the same. This is sleeker and sharper, less developed and livelier than the 2009, which already shows some signs of “old wine” with aromas that remind me of the old classical Rioja reds. It has greatness and finesse and is a very attractive wine with all the stuffing and balance that is needed for a long (and positive) aging in bottle. This is one of the finest modern day vintages of Castillo Ygay. This is going to develop in the direction of the classical bottlings from yesteryear. 130,853 bottles produced. It was bottled in March 2015.”
Decanter 97 points “Ygay these days is a blend of Tempranilo and Mazuelo, the later making up 15% in this vintage. 2010 will be remembered in the great vineyards of Europe as a classic year, elegant restraint and wonderful harmonious balance, even in youth, its key characteristics. The Ygay fits this template perfectly; plums and sloes, hints of blueberry and cassis, then figs, cocoa and sousbois, a distinct balsamic note to underline provenance. The Mazuelo etches fresh acidity and a powerful finish, leaving the Tempranillo the opportunity to dance flamboyantly on the mid-palate, the bringer of joy and harmony.”
Wine Spectator 96 points “Maturing well, this round red is a lovely example of the traditional style. Orange peel, dried cherry, forest floor, vanilla and black tea flavors mingle harmoniously over round tannins and citrusy acidity. Generous but gentle, lively, balanced and harmonious. Tempranillo and Mazuelo. Drink now through 2030.”
This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast today!
Love Rioja? We have over 30 wines from Rioja in stock now. Shop the entire selection, including famous names like López de Heredia, Muga, Remelluri and more, on our web store now!
Subscriber Special
Emanuel Darnaud’s Spectacular 2016s
Emanuel Darnaud has been one of our favorite surprises of the past couple years. Relatively new to Vinopolis, this small producer makes spectacular reds from the Northern Rhône -wines that have become some of our best deals when in stock. From top to bottom, the Darnaud wines over-perform, with density, power and drinkability. They are Syrah with immediate appeal AND soul. We’d like to get them into more glasses and cellars, though, so we’re offering them to you today at Subscriber Special pricing.
Featured below, two of Darnaud’s “high-end” bottles from 2016, wines that are still priced below the mid-tier wines of many of Darnaud’s better-known peers. They offer fantastic value at our normal (great) prices, but at Subscriber Special pricing, they’re steals.
In Stock Now:
Emmanuel Darnaud Saint Joseph La Dardouille, Rhône 2016 750ML ($49.95) Was $39, Now $35.10, 16 bottles in stock now
Jeb Dunnuck 94 points “The 2016 Saint Joseph Lieu Dit La Dardouille comes from a fabulous terroir (Jean-Louis Chave also works with this vineyard) and was brought up a mix of once- and twice-used demi-muids and barrels. It offers ripe, sexy notes of crème de cassis, violets, and graphite, with subtle new oak covered by beautifully pure fruit. With medium to full-bodied richness and depth, sweet tannins, and a great finish, it’s a gem of a Saint Joseph that will be better with 2-3 years of bottle age and cruise for a decade. Hats off to the young Emmanuel Darnaud for another beautiful wine.”
Josh Raynolds-Vinous 93 points “(no stems; raised in a combination of one- to three-year-old barriques and demi-muids) Brilliant violet. Potent, mineral-accented black and blue fruit, spicecake and floral pastille aromas show outstanding clarity and pick up a smoky mineral nuance with air. Juicy and focused on the palate, offering vibrant bitter cherry, blueberry and star anise flavors that deepen and spread out steadily on the back half. Finishes floral, sweet and impressively long, displaying repeating spiciness and well-knit tannins.”
Featured below, two of Darnaud’s “high-end” bottles from 2016, wines that are still priced below the mid-tier wines of many of Darnaud’s better-known peers. They offer fantastic value at our normal (great) prices, but at Subscriber Special pricing, they’re steals.
In Stock Now:
Emmanuel Darnaud Saint Joseph La Dardouille, Rhône 2016 750ML ($49.95) Was $39, Now $35.10, 16 bottles in stock now
Jeb Dunnuck 94 points “The 2016 Saint Joseph Lieu Dit La Dardouille comes from a fabulous terroir (Jean-Louis Chave also works with this vineyard) and was brought up a mix of once- and twice-used demi-muids and barrels. It offers ripe, sexy notes of crème de cassis, violets, and graphite, with subtle new oak covered by beautifully pure fruit. With medium to full-bodied richness and depth, sweet tannins, and a great finish, it’s a gem of a Saint Joseph that will be better with 2-3 years of bottle age and cruise for a decade. Hats off to the young Emmanuel Darnaud for another beautiful wine.”
Josh Raynolds-Vinous 93 points “(no stems; raised in a combination of one- to three-year-old barriques and demi-muids) Brilliant violet. Potent, mineral-accented black and blue fruit, spicecake and floral pastille aromas show outstanding clarity and pick up a smoky mineral nuance with air. Juicy and focused on the palate, offering vibrant bitter cherry, blueberry and star anise flavors that deepen and spread out steadily on the back half. Finishes floral, sweet and impressively long, displaying repeating spiciness and well-knit tannins.”
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Emmanuel Darnaud Crozes-Hermitage Au Fil du Temps, Rhône 2016 750ML ($49.95) Was $39, Now $35.10, 33 bottles in stock now
Emmanuel Darnaud Crozes-Hermitage Au Fil du Temps, Rhône 2016 1.5L ($99.95) Was $89, Now $80.10, 3 magnums in stock now
Jeb Dunnuck 93 points “The 2016 Crozes Hermitage Au Fil Du Temps comes from the alluvial soils in the southern part of the appellation and was brought up in 50% French oak. Sporting a saturated purple color, it offers impressive notes of crème de cassis, black raspberries, crushed pepper, and ample floral and incense notes. With medium to full body, solid elegance and balance, and moderate tannins, you can drink it today or cellar bottles for 7-8 years.”
Wine Spectator 92 points ” A soft, fleshy, generous style, with dark tea, mulled blackberry and plum fruit and warmed anise notes. Offers a velvety feel through the finish. Will have lots of fans. Drink now through 2021. 257 cases made.”
Winery note “Nose: Delicate and subtle. Aromas of blackberry and licorice stick. An impression of wet stones. Mouth: The entry shows a great freshness. The tannins are velvety and offer a voluminous and racy mid-palate. This wine offers great harmony and will need a few years to reveal its full potential.”
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Love Rhône reds? We have over 170 red wines from the Rhône Valley in stock now. Shop the entire selection, including famous names like Chapoutier, Domaine Clape, Jaboulet and more, on our web store now!
Gulfi: Master of Nero D’Avola
Gulfi first came to prominence as a champion of Nero D’Avola—the rich dark grape that they proved could be a transparent expression of terroir. The single vineyards Nero’s that Gulfi made changed perceptions of the grape and has helped lead to the current renaissance of Sicilian viticulture. These are wines that are intense, powerful, yet graceful.
Gulfi’s Nero d’Avola is typically extracted and rich, with subtle nuances reflecting the vineyard locations spread around the southeastern corner of the island. Variations in altitude and proximity to the sea influence the delicate aromatics, as ripeness is certainly not the issue. Salinity and sea breeze influences are present and add nuance to the ripe, roasty, smoky characteristics.
The Neromaccarj (pronounce the “j” as an “i” with the Gulfi names) is a vineyard that sits almost at sea level, and the wines from the vineyard are the biggest, richest and darkest fruited of the lot. By contrast, the Nerosanlore is a higher altitude site with a stronger marine influence and so the wines temper Nero d’Avola’s natural richness with higher acidity, redder fruits and grippier tannins. NeroBaronj is a vineyard that sits in a warm pocket but with almost pure limestone as its soil foundation, giving wines that are brighter, zippier and more delicate than the rest of the set. Finally, NeroBufaleffj’s volcanic origins produces a wine with rich, redder fruits and elegant tannins.
The 2016 vintage was magical throughout the Italian peninsula, and Gulfi’s 2016s arguably their finest yet—a real upgrade in terms of finesse and elegance over previous years. But don’t worry, these are still plenty powerful. If you have yet to acquaint yourself with these distinctive wines, there’s no time but the present.
In Stock Now:
Gulfi Nerobaronj Nero d’Avola Sicilia IGT, Sicily 2016 750ML ($34.95) $28 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Case-6 Gulfi Nerobaronj Sicilia IGT, Sicily 2016 750ML ($199.95) $159 special (that’s only $26.50/bottle!)
Ian D’Agata – Vinous 93+ points “Good full medium red. Riveting high-pitched perfume of raspberry, blood orange and violet, lifted by hints of lemon and talc. Clean, focused, and well delineated, with strong minerality and fresh spices lifting the raspberry fruit and very floral flavors. Easygoing and very drinkable already, this expresses a very silky texture. Finishes vibrant and very long, with subtle perfume of strawberry and violet. A pretty wine.”
Gulfi Nerobufaleffj Nero d’Avola Sicilia IGT, Sicily 2016 750ML ($59.95) $41.90 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Case-6 Gulfi Nerobufaleffj Nero d’Avola Sicilia IGT, Sicily 2016 750ML ($299.95) $237 special (that’s only $39.50/bottle!)
Ian D’Agata – Vinous 96+ points “Luminous deep red. Aromas of red cherry, minerals, Oriental spices and vanilla on the refined nose. Then luscious, rich, deep and multilayered with spices, herbs and aromatic oak notes dominating the underlying red and spicy flavors beneath. Finishes long but with less than the usual nectar-like quality that typifies this cru; undoubtedly, a much more elegant version of Nerobufaleffj, a wine that often reaches Amarone-like levels of richness and lusciousness. This very young wine is a potential knockout; still brooding and folded upon itself; it’s a beauty that requires time in your cellar, and watch it develop into something special.”
Gulfi’s Nero d’Avola is typically extracted and rich, with subtle nuances reflecting the vineyard locations spread around the southeastern corner of the island. Variations in altitude and proximity to the sea influence the delicate aromatics, as ripeness is certainly not the issue. Salinity and sea breeze influences are present and add nuance to the ripe, roasty, smoky characteristics.
The Neromaccarj (pronounce the “j” as an “i” with the Gulfi names) is a vineyard that sits almost at sea level, and the wines from the vineyard are the biggest, richest and darkest fruited of the lot. By contrast, the Nerosanlore is a higher altitude site with a stronger marine influence and so the wines temper Nero d’Avola’s natural richness with higher acidity, redder fruits and grippier tannins. NeroBaronj is a vineyard that sits in a warm pocket but with almost pure limestone as its soil foundation, giving wines that are brighter, zippier and more delicate than the rest of the set. Finally, NeroBufaleffj’s volcanic origins produces a wine with rich, redder fruits and elegant tannins.
The 2016 vintage was magical throughout the Italian peninsula, and Gulfi’s 2016s arguably their finest yet—a real upgrade in terms of finesse and elegance over previous years. But don’t worry, these are still plenty powerful. If you have yet to acquaint yourself with these distinctive wines, there’s no time but the present.
In Stock Now:
Gulfi Nerobaronj Nero d’Avola Sicilia IGT, Sicily 2016 750ML ($34.95) $28 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Case-6 Gulfi Nerobaronj Sicilia IGT, Sicily 2016 750ML ($199.95) $159 special (that’s only $26.50/bottle!)
Ian D’Agata – Vinous 93+ points “Good full medium red. Riveting high-pitched perfume of raspberry, blood orange and violet, lifted by hints of lemon and talc. Clean, focused, and well delineated, with strong minerality and fresh spices lifting the raspberry fruit and very floral flavors. Easygoing and very drinkable already, this expresses a very silky texture. Finishes vibrant and very long, with subtle perfume of strawberry and violet. A pretty wine.”
Gulfi Nerobufaleffj Nero d’Avola Sicilia IGT, Sicily 2016 750ML ($59.95) $41.90 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Case-6 Gulfi Nerobufaleffj Nero d’Avola Sicilia IGT, Sicily 2016 750ML ($299.95) $237 special (that’s only $39.50/bottle!)
Ian D’Agata – Vinous 96+ points “Luminous deep red. Aromas of red cherry, minerals, Oriental spices and vanilla on the refined nose. Then luscious, rich, deep and multilayered with spices, herbs and aromatic oak notes dominating the underlying red and spicy flavors beneath. Finishes long but with less than the usual nectar-like quality that typifies this cru; undoubtedly, a much more elegant version of Nerobufaleffj, a wine that often reaches Amarone-like levels of richness and lusciousness. This very young wine is a potential knockout; still brooding and folded upon itself; it’s a beauty that requires time in your cellar, and watch it develop into something special.”
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
Gulfi Neromaccarj Nero d’Avola Sicilia IGT, Sicily 2016 750ML ($49.95) $33 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Case-6 Gulfi Neromaccarj Nero d’Avola Sicilia IGT, Sicily 2016 750ML ($249.95) $189 special (that’s only $31.50/bottle!)
Ian D’Agata – Vinous 93 points “Deep ruby. Amazing floral and spicy nose of black fruit, herbs and grilled steak. Then rich and tactile, but vibrant and energetic, with well delineated flavors similar to the aromas. Finishes long with mounting but relatively polished tannic bite.”
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
Gulfi Nerosanlore Sicilia IGT, Sicily 2016 750ML ($59.95) $41.90 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Case-6 Gulfi Nerosanlore Sicilia IGT, Sicily 2016 750ML ($299.95) $237 special (that’s only $39.50/bottle!)
Ian D’Agata – Vinous 97 points “Luminous red. Precise, brooding aromas of ripe red cherry, flint, orange rind, cinnamon, lavender and violet, complicated by iodine and earth. Silky and sappy with refined but very concentrated extract, this smothers the taste buds but stays vibrant and not at all heavy, offering lovely definition and lift to the red cherry, raspberry, floral and mineral flavors. Finishes extremely deep and long, with ultra-suave tannins, mesmerizing inner-mouth perfume and extreme refinement; very Barolo-like. A lovely multilayered wine showcasing the elegant side of Nero d’Avola that very few producers ever manage to showcase.”
Love Sicilian wine? We have over 25 wines from Sicily in stock now. Shop the entire selection, including additional options from Gulfi, on our web store now!
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When you’re ready to pick up, just park in our lot,
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(If another adult is picking up for you,
please let us know their name when placing your order.)
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503-223-6002
Staff Pick
The Timeless Wines of Casa Castillo
Andy:
Jumilla is lost in time, and we should all be grateful. Old-vine Monastrell in vineyards that look as though they’ve been neglected even before the French fled to Spanish hills during the Phylloxera outbreak in the 19th century. Vineyards with fewer shovels full of soil than it takes to bury a hamster. Bleak stones everywhere, which sounds charming when it is attached to Châteauneuf du Pape, but looks pretty rough when you’re twisting through these sparsely populated hills under the summer sun.
So why are we grateful? This might be one of the best sources for unadulterated, wild flavor in any of the major wine producing countries in Europe. These head trained monsters offer up nothing but pure fruit that seems drawn from the core of the plateau and mountains that lift the vineyards above the baking heat of the interior. There is no shortage of wine from the area, and while there are both lowball and high-end representations from the DO, finding quality producers that are making affordable, yet well-crafted and delicious, bottles is difficult. This is where Casa Castillo is hitting the mark.
Originally purchased in 1941, the existing winery and cellar were not put into full use until the 1980s when the current owner José Maria Vicente and his father started to revitalize the property and some of the ancient vineyards. The first expansions to the property saw the family experiment with Cabernet Sauvignon (gone now, grafted over to Garnacha) and Syrah (with plant material obtained from JL Chave). But the most important decision was to obtain more high-quality Monastrell. This enabled Casa Castillo to fine tune their style with special blends based upon the different sites and the way the fruit reflected the terroir. These included vineyards with beautiful chalk soils, sites with lovely limestone, and some sites the entirety of which look like someone filled a ball crawl with sunbaked stones. The Vicente family focuses on fermentation and aging in concrete tanks, foudres and large 500L demi-muids, which minimizes the oak influence allowing the surprisingly bright fruit to shine through.
Of the three selections we have, two feature the old-vine Monastrell blended up to 25% Garnacha, and the other is a surprisingly fresh 100% Garnacha from one of the stoniest sites on the mountain overlooking the estate. All three have a brightness and lively feel that feels like a reprieve from some of the overripe examples of the same 2017 vintage. The Las Gravas, probably the most weighty of the three, still comes across as extremely floral and full of life. At $33/bottle or $369/case-12, this could be a fun cellar addition as the initial intensity will temper while the softness comes to the fore. The Vino de Finca could become a nice bottle to throw into the rotation, both to break up your routine and to wake up your palate. All three are available in good quantity now and will drink beautifully over the winter.
In Stock Now:
Casa Castillo Las Gravas, Jumilla 2017 750ML ($37.95) $33 special, 30 bottles in stock now
Luis Gutierrez-Wine Advocate 95 points “The 2017 Las Gravas is surprisingly floral and ethereal, perfumed and elegant. Syrah has disappeared from the blend of this wine—it now has 20% Garnacha to complement the Monastrell—and they think this is going to be the blend that stays in this wine, which has seen more changes in its life than the rest of the portfolio. This is for sure the most elegant vintage for this bottling; the wine matured in 500-liter barrels and then spent four months in 5,000-liter vats after the blend was done. There are no aromas of oak whatsoever, and the wine is surprisingly fresh, as if the Garnacha helps to contain the power of Monastrell on the gravel soils, adding texture and perfume. This is beautiful. 26,500 bottles were filled in March 2019.”
Casa Castillo El Molar Tinto, Jumilla 2017 750ML ($24.95) $19.50 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Luis Gutierrez-Wine Advocate 94 points “There is a high-pitched red fruit note on the nose of the 2017 El Molar, and it’s a wine with a lot of light, something that is quite remarkable for a warm and Mediterranean year like 2017. This is a Garnacha that feels like a wine from a cool year, with plenty bright red fruit. I tasted it two weeks after it was bottled, and it felt completely harmonious and relaxed. As with most of the 2017s, this seems like the finest vintage for this wine. It has a lighter color and a more fragrant nose, and it’s immediately identifiable within the Casa Castillo range. 28,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in February 2019.”
Jumilla is lost in time, and we should all be grateful. Old-vine Monastrell in vineyards that look as though they’ve been neglected even before the French fled to Spanish hills during the Phylloxera outbreak in the 19th century. Vineyards with fewer shovels full of soil than it takes to bury a hamster. Bleak stones everywhere, which sounds charming when it is attached to Châteauneuf du Pape, but looks pretty rough when you’re twisting through these sparsely populated hills under the summer sun.
So why are we grateful? This might be one of the best sources for unadulterated, wild flavor in any of the major wine producing countries in Europe. These head trained monsters offer up nothing but pure fruit that seems drawn from the core of the plateau and mountains that lift the vineyards above the baking heat of the interior. There is no shortage of wine from the area, and while there are both lowball and high-end representations from the DO, finding quality producers that are making affordable, yet well-crafted and delicious, bottles is difficult. This is where Casa Castillo is hitting the mark.
Originally purchased in 1941, the existing winery and cellar were not put into full use until the 1980s when the current owner José Maria Vicente and his father started to revitalize the property and some of the ancient vineyards. The first expansions to the property saw the family experiment with Cabernet Sauvignon (gone now, grafted over to Garnacha) and Syrah (with plant material obtained from JL Chave). But the most important decision was to obtain more high-quality Monastrell. This enabled Casa Castillo to fine tune their style with special blends based upon the different sites and the way the fruit reflected the terroir. These included vineyards with beautiful chalk soils, sites with lovely limestone, and some sites the entirety of which look like someone filled a ball crawl with sunbaked stones. The Vicente family focuses on fermentation and aging in concrete tanks, foudres and large 500L demi-muids, which minimizes the oak influence allowing the surprisingly bright fruit to shine through.
Of the three selections we have, two feature the old-vine Monastrell blended up to 25% Garnacha, and the other is a surprisingly fresh 100% Garnacha from one of the stoniest sites on the mountain overlooking the estate. All three have a brightness and lively feel that feels like a reprieve from some of the overripe examples of the same 2017 vintage. The Las Gravas, probably the most weighty of the three, still comes across as extremely floral and full of life. At $33/bottle or $369/case-12, this could be a fun cellar addition as the initial intensity will temper while the softness comes to the fore. The Vino de Finca could become a nice bottle to throw into the rotation, both to break up your routine and to wake up your palate. All three are available in good quantity now and will drink beautifully over the winter.
In Stock Now:
Casa Castillo Las Gravas, Jumilla 2017 750ML ($37.95) $33 special, 30 bottles in stock now
Luis Gutierrez-Wine Advocate 95 points “The 2017 Las Gravas is surprisingly floral and ethereal, perfumed and elegant. Syrah has disappeared from the blend of this wine—it now has 20% Garnacha to complement the Monastrell—and they think this is going to be the blend that stays in this wine, which has seen more changes in its life than the rest of the portfolio. This is for sure the most elegant vintage for this bottling; the wine matured in 500-liter barrels and then spent four months in 5,000-liter vats after the blend was done. There are no aromas of oak whatsoever, and the wine is surprisingly fresh, as if the Garnacha helps to contain the power of Monastrell on the gravel soils, adding texture and perfume. This is beautiful. 26,500 bottles were filled in March 2019.”
Casa Castillo El Molar Tinto, Jumilla 2017 750ML ($24.95) $19.50 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Luis Gutierrez-Wine Advocate 94 points “There is a high-pitched red fruit note on the nose of the 2017 El Molar, and it’s a wine with a lot of light, something that is quite remarkable for a warm and Mediterranean year like 2017. This is a Garnacha that feels like a wine from a cool year, with plenty bright red fruit. I tasted it two weeks after it was bottled, and it felt completely harmonious and relaxed. As with most of the 2017s, this seems like the finest vintage for this wine. It has a lighter color and a more fragrant nose, and it’s immediately identifiable within the Casa Castillo range. 28,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in February 2019.”
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Casa Castillo Vino de Finca, Jumilla 2017 750ML ($24.95) $21.90 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Luis Gutierrez 93+ points “There is a big jump in depth, complexity and nuance between the Monastrell and the 2017 Vino de Finca, which is a blend of Monastrell with almost 25% Garnacha. This comes from four plots that were selected from what was previously used for the entry-level Monastrell; they aim was to find a wine with more finesse and elegance but with the inherent power of the zone. This is only the third vintage for this cuvée, and it feels quite established and different from the rest of the range; it has less varietal character and is more about the place, getting closer to the single-vineyard bottlings where they do not search for fruit character. The idea here is to ferment at temperatures that are quite so low and to stabilize the wine in oak barrels for a long-ish time (12 months in 500-liter barrels and 5,000-liter oak foudres). They are wines of sun and limestone. This is a good reflection of it with a perfumed and floral note on the finish (elegance!) that is quite remarkable. 31,000 bottles produced in 2017. It was bottled in November 2018.”
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Zorzal’s Navarra Values
Wines of Terroir from Rioja’s Neighbor
Wines of Terroir from Rioja’s Neighbor
Zorzal makes some of the most overlooked wines in Spain, solely because they work in Navarra, not its more famous neighbor, Rioja. Working primarily with Garnacha and Graciano, brothers Xabi, Iñaki and Mikel Sanz have made vintage after vintage of terroir-driven values since the winery’s inception in 2007. This is a producer that over-delivers from the low to the “high” end (still sub $25) with high scoring, delicious wines.
Like many Spanish wines, Zorzal’s have a ton of immediate appeal, with rich textures and juicy fruit flavors. But they’re also loaded with character thanks to a light touch in the cellar (native fermentations, minimal new oak) allowing the grapes and terroirs to shine through. The lineup has been a hit with regulars who gravity towards Spain since the wines arrived over the summer. So if you’re looking for a new value play, look no further.
In Stock Now:
Viña Zorzal Corral De Los Altos, Navarra 2018 750ML ($29.95) $24 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Luis Gutierrez – Wine Advocate 92 points “All the guest winemakers that take part in the Lecciones de Vuelo joint venture with Viña Zorzal are offered to produce their interpretation of the paraje Corral de los Altos in Fitero. The 2018 Corral de los Altos is Zorzal’s own interpretation of a 45-year-old plot of 2.1 hectares of Garnacha planted on a north-facing stony part of the village. The grapes fermented in stainless steel with some 25% full clusters and indigenous yeasts and matured in seven used (second and third use) 500-liter oak barrels. This has contained ripeness and a medium to full-bodied palate with the classical chalky tannins and texture from the limestone-rich soils and the length and tastiness they provide”
Like many Spanish wines, Zorzal’s have a ton of immediate appeal, with rich textures and juicy fruit flavors. But they’re also loaded with character thanks to a light touch in the cellar (native fermentations, minimal new oak) allowing the grapes and terroirs to shine through. The lineup has been a hit with regulars who gravity towards Spain since the wines arrived over the summer. So if you’re looking for a new value play, look no further.
In Stock Now:
Viña Zorzal Corral De Los Altos, Navarra 2018 750ML ($29.95) $24 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Luis Gutierrez – Wine Advocate 92 points “All the guest winemakers that take part in the Lecciones de Vuelo joint venture with Viña Zorzal are offered to produce their interpretation of the paraje Corral de los Altos in Fitero. The 2018 Corral de los Altos is Zorzal’s own interpretation of a 45-year-old plot of 2.1 hectares of Garnacha planted on a north-facing stony part of the village. The grapes fermented in stainless steel with some 25% full clusters and indigenous yeasts and matured in seven used (second and third use) 500-liter oak barrels. This has contained ripeness and a medium to full-bodied palate with the classical chalky tannins and texture from the limestone-rich soils and the length and tastiness they provide”
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Viña Zorzal ‘Cuatro del Cuatro’, Navarra 2018 750ML ($36.95) $29 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Luis Gutierrez – Wine Advocate 94 points “The pure Graciano 2018 Cuatro del Cuatro was first produced in 2015 as an homage to the Sanz brothers’ father, who kept his Graciano vines when the majority ripped them up. They have seen that, with a soft vinification, the variety is not as rustic as most think and, in fact, can be quite elegant. 2018 was a tricky vintage for the variety, and the wine has moderate alcohol (13.3%), a very low pH (3.35) and notable acidity (six grams of tartaric acid per liter). It was produced with grapes grown in the village of Corella (especially from a vineyard planted in 1978), which has more Mediterranean influence that Fitero, the other village where they have the majority of their vineyards. This is a super serious Graciano, fresher than the majority of varietal bottlings out there, as they have lost the fear of harvesting it earlier, and it delivers a very spicy wine, with lots of black and even white peppercorns. I think this is very much in line with the 2016. It matured in used oak barrels of different sizes, and they did a barrel selection to produce 2,900 bottles of it.”
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Viña Zorzal Garnacha, Navarra 2019 750ML ($17.95) $14 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Luis Gutierrez – Wine Advocate 91 points “The entry-level red simply called 2019 Garnacha is what they define as their regional bottling, using grapes from the villages of de Corella, Cintruénigo and Fitero, produced in an approachable and easy-to-understand way. It had a gentle vinification, starting with grapes of moderate ripeness with a good pH, fermented with indigenous yeasts and using 20% full clusters. The difference in vintage is noticeable when tasted with a majority of 2018s; this is a clearly riper and more open vintage, with a more Mediterranean character, with sweet fruit and aromatic herbs. It reminds me of some of my favorite old-time unoaked Garnachas from Navarra. It has a serious palate, with freshness and chalky tannins and a serious finish. Great value!”
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Viña Zorzal Graciano, Navarra 2018 750ml ($19.95) $16 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Luis Gutierrez – Wine Advocate 91 points “The 2018 Graciano, the first wine they produced at the new Viña Zorzal in 2007, was produced with grapes from the village of Corella, and they want to show the expression of the grape in the village, more Mediterranean than Fitero, where they have a significant percentage of their vines. The spicy character of the wine and the lively palate are the expression of the Graciano in their village, what they have been trying to express since 2015. It fermented in stainless steel with moderate extraction and matured in used French oak barrels of different sizes for nine months. This is a very fresh vintage, and the wine is harmonious, spicy, with an herbal hint, with some dusty tannins, chalky and a bitter twist in the finish. I think the earlier harvest of the grape delivers wines that are more transparent, and this is quite stony and tasty. This is a very good value and a great introduction to Graciano”.
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Viña Zorzal Malayeto, Navarra 2018 750ml ($29.95) $26 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Luis Gutierrez – Wine Advocate 94 points “The really impressive and mineral 2018 Malayeto was produced with Garnacha from a single vineyard that produces wine of unusual elegance and minerality. This was the first plot they bottled separately, and this 2018 is the sixth vintage they have produced. It’s a 2.9-hectare plot planted 40 years ago, on the same slope as Corral de los Altos but at a higher altitude and therefore with different soils, surprisingly deep but with lots of calcium carbonate and fine gravel. This fermented in a combination of stainless steel and concrete with indigenous yeasts and matured in a 4,000-liter oak foudre and nine used 500-liter oak barrels for nine months. This wine clearly transcends its price. It’s serious but started quite shy and needed time to open up (it’s extremely young and just bottled), but there is great purity and detail, and it’s elegant and balanced, extremely harmonious. The palate is incredibly elegant, seamless, balanced, with very fine tannins, great integration of the oak and very good freshness, with citrus-like freshness (think blood orange skin). Most of the time, this is my go-to wine in Zorzal’s portfolio, a wine of great finesse in its finest vintage to date.”
This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast today!
Collector’s Corner
Domaine Forey’s Not-Yet-Cult 2017 Burgundies
Domaine Forey’s Not-Yet-Cult 2017 Burgundies
The wines from Domaine Forey exist in a (blessed) middle ground of collectibility—quantities are extremely scarce because of the size of the domaine (and demand on the east coast), but somehow they aren’t quite a “name” in the sense of a Coche or Roumier. The result is that we actually get to offer the wines to you, however briefly.
Burgundy’s 2017 vintage is, of course, a great year and more importantly it’s a year that plays into the style of the house. Forey’s 2017s look to be monumental wines with more freshness and liveliness allied to house’s usual power. We still have a few bottles remaining of Forey’s Premier and Grand Cru bottlings from 2017, wines that are drinking surprisingly well young, but also have all the hallmarks of age-worthy Burgundy.
“the finished 2017s display a gorgeously silken, fresh character, with fine tannins, vibrant red fruit, and a sense of harmonious digestibility which belies their inherent complexity. Régis’s lighter touch suits the vintage particularly well, allowing its innate energy to emerge without obfuscation, and Forey fans both historic and recent will find much to celebrate in this inspired collection of 2017s.” –Neal Rosenthal
“Régis Forey describes the 2017 growing season as ‘easy sailing relative to 2016… Unlike several other recent vintages where it seemed as though the maturities arrived all of sudden, in 2017 they increased progressively so there was no rush to begin picking or to finish.… I used an even higher percentage of whole clusters than the 40% I used in 2016, which is to say between 50 and 70%. As to the style of the 2017s, they’re pretty, fresh and transparent and should drink well on the younger side but there is no reason that those who prefer the aromas and flavors of mature wines couldn’t age them over the medium-term.” –Burghound
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Domaine Forey Père et Fils Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, Côte de Nuits 2017 750ML ($219.95) $179 special, 6 bottles in stock now
Burghound 92 points “An attractively fresh nose is comprised by notes of essence of various red berries, a plethora of splice elements and even a hint of the sauvage. There is fine intensity and a bit more volume if less minerality to the medium weight plus flavors that are more structured still on the serious, austere and even more backward finish. Patience definitely advised.”
Domaine Forey Père et Fils Echezeaux Grand Cru, Côte de Nuits 2017 750ML ($219.95) $189 special, 2 bottles in stock now
Burghound 93 points “An overtly spicy nose is comprised by notes of dark berries, cassis, plum and a whiff of violet. The suave and super-rich larger-scaled flavors retain a lovely sense of energy that can also be found on the sleek, focused and sneaky long finale that isn’t quite as structured as that of the Echézeaux but there is a bit more overall depth.”
Domaine Forey Père et Fils Les Perrières, Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru 2017 750ML ($119.95) $99 special, 6 bottles in stock now
Burghound 89-92 points “Here too there is noticeable but not intrusive wood interwoven into the slightly earthier nose that displays both spice and floral elements on the fruit profile that derives more from the red side of the spectrum. There is excellent punch and delineation to the lightly mineral-inflected medium-bodied flavors that exhibit focused power on the lingering finish. This is an interesting wine in that the mid-palate is an exercise in finesse while the finish is muscular and almost robust.”
Neal Rosenthal “Regis works a 0.42-hectare parcel of 75-to-80-year-old vines in this vaunted cru, and this 2017—vinified with 30% whole clusters—is an immediate leap forward in complexity from the previous wines. All its elements present with greater force: juicier fruit, firmer yet more fully enrobed tannins, and a more intense earth-mineral interplay. 2017’s inherent silkiness emerges in the wine’s caressing and lengthy finish.”
Domaine Forey Père et Fils Forey Les Saint Georges, Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru 2017 750ML ($149.95) $125 special, 3 bottles in stock now
Burghound 91 points – Outstanding “The wood influence is more subtle if not invisible as it easily allows the elegant and airy floral and spice-inflected red pinot, cherry and soft earth-suffused aromas to shine. There is once again good detail to the bigger, richer and more obviously muscular flavors that manage to remain refined on the youthfully austere, refreshing and lightly stony flavors. This is a bit less structured than it usually is though it should still reward extended keeping.”
Love the Côte de Nuits? We have over 250 reds from the Côte de Nuits in stock now. Shop the entire selection, including additional options from Forey, on our web store now!
Burgundy’s 2017 vintage is, of course, a great year and more importantly it’s a year that plays into the style of the house. Forey’s 2017s look to be monumental wines with more freshness and liveliness allied to house’s usual power. We still have a few bottles remaining of Forey’s Premier and Grand Cru bottlings from 2017, wines that are drinking surprisingly well young, but also have all the hallmarks of age-worthy Burgundy.
“the finished 2017s display a gorgeously silken, fresh character, with fine tannins, vibrant red fruit, and a sense of harmonious digestibility which belies their inherent complexity. Régis’s lighter touch suits the vintage particularly well, allowing its innate energy to emerge without obfuscation, and Forey fans both historic and recent will find much to celebrate in this inspired collection of 2017s.” –Neal Rosenthal
“Régis Forey describes the 2017 growing season as ‘easy sailing relative to 2016… Unlike several other recent vintages where it seemed as though the maturities arrived all of sudden, in 2017 they increased progressively so there was no rush to begin picking or to finish.… I used an even higher percentage of whole clusters than the 40% I used in 2016, which is to say between 50 and 70%. As to the style of the 2017s, they’re pretty, fresh and transparent and should drink well on the younger side but there is no reason that those who prefer the aromas and flavors of mature wines couldn’t age them over the medium-term.” –Burghound
In Stock Now:
Domaine Forey Père et Fils Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, Côte de Nuits 2017 750ML ($219.95) $179 special, 6 bottles in stock now
Burghound 92 points “An attractively fresh nose is comprised by notes of essence of various red berries, a plethora of splice elements and even a hint of the sauvage. There is fine intensity and a bit more volume if less minerality to the medium weight plus flavors that are more structured still on the serious, austere and even more backward finish. Patience definitely advised.”
Domaine Forey Père et Fils Echezeaux Grand Cru, Côte de Nuits 2017 750ML ($219.95) $189 special, 2 bottles in stock now
Burghound 93 points “An overtly spicy nose is comprised by notes of dark berries, cassis, plum and a whiff of violet. The suave and super-rich larger-scaled flavors retain a lovely sense of energy that can also be found on the sleek, focused and sneaky long finale that isn’t quite as structured as that of the Echézeaux but there is a bit more overall depth.”
Domaine Forey Père et Fils Les Perrières, Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru 2017 750ML ($119.95) $99 special, 6 bottles in stock now
Burghound 89-92 points “Here too there is noticeable but not intrusive wood interwoven into the slightly earthier nose that displays both spice and floral elements on the fruit profile that derives more from the red side of the spectrum. There is excellent punch and delineation to the lightly mineral-inflected medium-bodied flavors that exhibit focused power on the lingering finish. This is an interesting wine in that the mid-palate is an exercise in finesse while the finish is muscular and almost robust.”
Neal Rosenthal “Regis works a 0.42-hectare parcel of 75-to-80-year-old vines in this vaunted cru, and this 2017—vinified with 30% whole clusters—is an immediate leap forward in complexity from the previous wines. All its elements present with greater force: juicier fruit, firmer yet more fully enrobed tannins, and a more intense earth-mineral interplay. 2017’s inherent silkiness emerges in the wine’s caressing and lengthy finish.”
Domaine Forey Père et Fils Forey Les Saint Georges, Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru 2017 750ML ($149.95) $125 special, 3 bottles in stock now
Burghound 91 points – Outstanding “The wood influence is more subtle if not invisible as it easily allows the elegant and airy floral and spice-inflected red pinot, cherry and soft earth-suffused aromas to shine. There is once again good detail to the bigger, richer and more obviously muscular flavors that manage to remain refined on the youthfully austere, refreshing and lightly stony flavors. This is a bit less structured than it usually is though it should still reward extended keeping.”
Love the Côte de Nuits? We have over 250 reds from the Côte de Nuits in stock now. Shop the entire selection, including additional options from Forey, on our web store now!
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