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Veyder-Malberg- Fresh, Authentic, Extreme Wachau Wines

With so much of today’s wine coming from mechanically-farmed flat land vineyards, direct human interaction with the vines and fruit is minimal at best.  There are, of course, plenty of hand-farmed vineyards out there, but few are as challenging to work as those in Austria’s Wachau. Like the historic vines of Spain’s Priorat or France’s Norther Rhone, the Wachau’s terraced vineyards are filled with deep-rooted old vines inaccessible by vehicles, so they must be worked by hand – which is highly labor intensive.  And this is why many of the old terraces are in danger of being abandoned – something that would ultimately change the landscape of the Wachau in the future.

So, starting in 2008, Peter Veyder-Malberg made it his goal to acquire exposed cool-site terraces with mainly old vines (30-50 years of age) and protect them from being cleared. Although this means pure handwork, Peter is convinced that the qualities of the wines are so unique, so full of character and spectacular, that this work will be repaid many times over. A dedicated organic farmer who has made wines for two decades, Peter’s desire is to produce exceptional, expressive, and vibrant wines.  Look for the “handarbeit” signature on Peter’s bottles, a stamp that his wines are “handmade.”

These are fine, extremely elegant wines with a filigree minerality.  They are likely to be closed in their youth, but have amazing aging potential. And they are also hard to find in the retail marketplace; we are very pleased to have a few cases each of the three below, arriving this week:

Veyder-Malberg Gruner Veltliner Kreutles 2009 $21.90 Wine Spectator 90 Points

“Pure, racy and refined, with intense mineral notes to the fresh-cut apple and pear flavors. The focused finish of mineral and spice has plenty of cut. Drink now through 2020.”

Veyder-Malberg Gruner Veltliner Hochrain 2009 $29 Wine Spectator 90 Points

“Creamy and rich-tasting, with apple tart, peach, pear and baked pineapple flavors. The focused finish features ripe, spicy notes and plenty of vanilla. Drink now through 2016.”

Veyder-Malberg Riesling Bruck 2009 $33 Wine Spectator 90 Points

“There’s good cut and intensity to the mineral, spiced apple and pear tart flavors in this racy and pure-tasting white, which is rich and expressive on the finish, with plenty of jellied citrus and spice notes. Drink now through 2020.”

 

 
 
 
 

chateauneuf du pape- holiday specials

 

Another Holliday

’tis the season,

to enjoy friends, family, festive food, finest wine,

and to save money…

The wines of the South Rhone fit the Holiday Season very well, and the wines of Chateauneuf du Pape are the undisputed best among them. We were thrilled to have an opportunity to bring some of the best to you at the undisputed best prices in the USA.  Check them out:

Clos des Papes Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc 2006 $39 case of 12- $399 Wine Spectator 95 points “Supertight and pure, with blanched almond, star fruit, acacia and lemon verbena notes all gliding along a bright, minerally frame. Lingering hints of orange blossom, honeysuckle and lime add further complexity. Should age beautifully. Drink now through 2017″

Chateau Fortia Chateauneuf du Pape ‘Tradition’ 2006 $21.90  Case of 12-$239 Wine Spectator 89 points “This offers a beam of plum, red currant, licorice and sweet spice flavors, with slightly firm but rounded tannins. Drink now through 2018″  

Cuvee du Vatican Chateauneuf du Pape ‘Sixtine Reserve’ 2006 $33 Case of 12 : $359 Wine Spectator 93 points “This is dark and reticent for now, but also pure and loaded with a big core of plum and blackberry fruit, mocha, graphite, licorice and fig cake notes. The long, velvety finish just sails along, with latent grip in reserve. Best from 2009 through 2028″

Olivier Hillaire Chateaneuf du Pape Les Petites Pieds d’Armand 2008 $39 Case of 12 : $399 Wine Spectator 93 points “A very stylish, perfumy version, with alluring incense and black tea aromas giving way to a silky palate loaded with kirsch, pepper, shiso leaf and lingering plum skin notes. The long finish lets a hint of anise check in. Best from 2011 through 2022″  

Le Vieux Donjon Chateauneuf du Pape 2006 375ml $19 Wine Spectator 93 points deftly.” This is rock-solid, with crushed raspberry, kirsch, juniper and smoked apple wood notes, backed by a broad, plush, spice- and anise-filled finish. Nicely rounded and integrated for the vintage. Drink now through 2021″

to purchase- select SHOP VINOPOLIS NOW-

search on ” Chateauneuf ” to see fullest selection, or

search on winery name for a more narrow view

 

 

special guest- Josh Bergstrom

One of our best and brightest Oregon winemakers joins us here to talk about the 2011 vintage of Willamette Valley Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.  While Josh is already an accomplished wine-maker and not at all without recognition for his wines, what many may not know is that Josh has never stopped gaining knowledge and appreciation of the best of the wine world at large, and applying his evolving insights to his own craft. So, here is Josh Bergstrom – in his own write….

If you follow West Coast winemaking news, you have probably heard by now that 2011 is the prelude to the Apocalypse……right? Oh, ye of little faith.  In my humble opinion, 2011 could turn out to be one of the more interesting vintages in Oregon’s recent history, and could quite possibly change how we feel about late, cool and wet harvests vis-à-vis Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Or even change your mind about how you feel about cool climate wine regions.  Sure, not every vineyard in the Willamette Valley will ripen its fruit to 23 degrees Brix, and the Pinot Noirs may not be a deep hue of purple when they are released in 18 months to two years, but is that so bad? Remember 2008, 2007, 2005, 2004, 1999 etc….?

On my recent trip to Burgundy, where I worked harvest at some of my favorite Chardonnay producers in Puligny, Chassagne and Meursault, I was eager to find out how excited they all were about their much hyped and warm 2009 vintage that every collector in the world is dying to purchase.  “Sure the wines are impressive” they all agreed, “but they are not as acid-driven, or balanced as the 2008’s.”   WHAT?!?

And then I remembered where I was….. I was in a cool climate, just like back home.   Like all cool climate winemakers, the Burgundians, just like Oregonians, love the ease that comes with selling a warmer vintage, but thrive off of the challenge of a cooler, more challenging vintage.   It is in these cooler years where acids remain energetic, fruit flavors and aromas retain their freshness, alcohol levels stay low and there is the greatest possibility for balanced wines that will drink well young and potentially age for a decade or two.  I also believe that there is a greater possibility for crafting the most memorable wines from these types of vintages.  Especially when you are considering Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

One month ago if you had asked me how Oregon’s 2011 vintage was going to shape up, I would have said something like; “Hey look over there, is that a bear!!!” And I would have run in the other direction, trying to avoid a very difficult question about the threat of a potentially very difficult vintage.  But my how things have changed in one month.  Oregon is now looking a beautiful vintage straight in the eyes.  I’m sticking around for this conversation.

Fruit flavors are lovely and in the red fruit spectrum, with some fruit tasting of dark cherry and black raspberry already.  Acids are high but falling into balance quickly, seeds are browning nicely, stems and stalks are lignified, and believe it or not, we are seeing some vineyards arrive at 22-23+ degrees brix.   Everything I have seen so far from the lower elevation, well farmed sites is very promising.  In fact, everything that I have seen in the past week, I did not predict I would see this year.  I was preparing for the worst.

Now, I won’t completely sugarcoat the 2011 vintage from Oregon either.  There are some vineyards in Oregon which are sitting at high elevations, or with larger than normal yields, which will simply struggle to ripen this year.  They may still ripen, given the very positive long-term weather forecast calling for continued high pressure around the Pacific Northwest, but it will be a challenge for sure.    Also, we are wrestling with the birds whose migratory patterns bring them, and their ravenous hunger, directly over the Willamette Valley on their way south for the winter.  The starlings and the robins love our grapes.  And if we can keep botrytis at bay, frost from freezing, locusts from swarming and frogs from falling from the heavens…… we will be okay…. we may even be great.  Stay tuned for positive results from Oregon in 2011.  

Josh & team at the outset of vintage 2011

 Thank you Josh, and special thanks to photographer Carolyn Wells Kramer

Paolo Bea: where & why

Umbria the heartland of Italy; the only region of Italy that is in fact surrounded by Italy. Its rolling hills and intermittent plains are something of an agricultural paradise. Montefalco is said to be the balcony of Umbria; an ancient hilltop fortess village. And the nearby Montefalco hills are the center of Umbrian wine tradition, with pre-Roman origins. For all of its prized olive oils and sometimes prized wines, the greatest “export” from Umbria may well be the particular theology of the Franciscan Order, founded in 13th Century Assisi, 20 miles to the north from Montefalco.

 

 The Bea Family in Montefalco pre-dates the 16th Century. For all the impact that Paolo Bea has had on the world of wine, the estate is tiny and not specifically devoted to wine. Of total 40 acres only one-third is vineyard. On the rest; olives, fruits, vegetables, and livestock. All undertaken with Paolo’s organicist passion for earth, nature, and sustenance. Today Paolo is looking ahead to his 80th birthday, and guiding his sons Giuseppe (agronomy) and Giampiero (winemaking) in the continuation of their family base and their unique wines. It is not hard to see shades of Saint Francis in Paolo Bea. They both restored respect for all nature and the role of humility within a world that had been institutionalized to consider man separate and supreme. Those institutions being the medieval church in the case of Francis and late 20th century ag science & corporate farming in the case of Paolo. Neither of them invented, rather they each restored a sensibility that had been cast aside.

 

Bea’s wines have been described as intense and idiosyncratic. But they are in fact totally traditional and natural. Only in a world that has gone to far the other way are they idiosyncratic. One otherwise brilliant wine critic, while loving the wines, slighted them as being overly transparent to vintage character. But what else would they be without the use of osmotic transfers and uber-yeasts? The hoe and the hand do not overcome nature, they reveal it. And what a revelation that is. Amazing Grace! Paolo is making a single white wine from the white grapes Garganaga, Malvasia, and Grachetto. And four different red wines from the red grapes Sagrantino, Montepulciano, and Sangiovese. We’ll have a closer look at each of these wines in our next post.

Paolo Bea- the wines

these wines scheduled for arrival here November 1-5 2011,

and listed for pre-arrival purchase now

 

Paolo Bea Santa Chiara Umbria Bianco 2009 ($44.95) $37 net pre-arrival special

Antonio Galloni 90 points “The 2009 Santa Chiara is a totally intriguing wine. A blend of 20% Grechetto, 20% Malvasia and 20% Garganega plus other white grapes, the Santa Chiara spent 17 days on its skins in steel tanks and was fermented with ambient yeasts with no temperature control. It is a striking wine, most notably for the way it completely covers every inch of the palate with fruit. Despite its textural richness, this never comes across as heavy. Sweet peach, almond, spices and a hint of orange peel linger on the multi-dimensional, almost lush finish. Readers who want to explore the whites that are sometimes referred to as ‘orange wines’ without going to the more eccentric styles may want to start here. This is a stunning wine from Giampaolo Bea. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2019.”  AG

 

Paolo Bea Rosso di Veo Umbria  2005 ($59.95) $49 net pre-arrival special

Antonio Galloni 91 points “Bea’s 2005 Rosso de Veo, a Sagrantino made from the estate’s youngest vines, is another of the wines that is showing better today than it did a year ago. Delicate, pure and classy, the Rosso de Veo flows with exotic dark fruit, wild herbs and flowers, all of which are framed by pure, silky tannins. Though not inexpensive, the Rosso de Veo is a great introduction to the very personal style of Giampiero Bea in Sagrantino. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2017” AG

 

 

 

Paolo Bea Montefalco Rosso Riserva Pipparello 2005 ($69.95) $59 net pre-arrival special

Antonio Galloni 94 points “The 2005 Montefalco Rosso Riserva Pipparello is a rock star wine. This powerful, intense red emerges with generous dark cherries, plums, licorice, smoke and leather. The late harvest in 2005 resulted in an extraordinarily complete wine blessed with tons of pedigree. The 2005 Pipparello is 60% Sangiovese, 25% Montepulciano d’Abruzzo and 15% Sagrantino. The wine saw 42 days of contact on the skins and was aged for a year in stainless steel followed by two years in cask. Simply put, it is magnificent! Anticipated maturity: 2013-2025.”  AG

 

 Paolo Bea Sagrantino di Montefalco Secco Vigneto Pagliaro 2005 ($89.95) $69 net pre-arrival special

Antonio Galloni 94 points “The 2005 Montefalco Sagrantino Vigna Pagliaro has put on quite a bit of weight over the last year. Today it is a rich, sumptuous wine that totally covers the palate with dense, dark fruit. In 2005 the Pagliaro is impressive in the way it achieves superb density while retaining the elements of delicate, nuanced subtlety that inform Bea’s finest wines. This is a fabulous effort from Bea. The 2005 Pagliaro saw 46 days on the skins, followed by a year in stainless steel and two years in cask.” AG

 

Paolo Bea Sagrantino di Montefalco Secco Vigneto Pagliaro 2004 ($89.95) $69

Antonio Galloni 94 points The 2004 Sagrantino di Montefalco Pagliaro is more linear than the 2005 and perhaps just a touch more advanced as well. Sweet tobacco, herb and earth aromas waft out of the glass followed by a perfumed core of fruit that emerges over time. A long, refined finish rounds out the wine nicely. The 2004 is more ethereal than the 2005, but it, too, is quite beautiful, not to mention a terrific effort in what was a challenging vintage for this property. Interestingly, what seems to come through most in tasting the 2005 and 2004 side by side are the qualities of this vineyard first, and those of vintage second. The 2004 Pagliaro was macerated on the skins for 48 days and spent 32 months in large, neutral casks. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019. AG

 

Paolo Bea Sagrantino di Montefalco Passito 2001 375ml ($119.95) $89 net pre-arrival special

Sublime. The original nature of Sagrantio wine. The grapes laid out on mats and partially dried pre-pressing, in the fashion of Amarone. The sweetness envelopes the dark and brooding Sagrantino. Cheeses and dried fruits are the classic accompaniment, but I could also enjoy this with North African inspired stews. The production of this wine should be protected by some Heritage Foundation- it is truly one of those things from the past worth preserving.

 

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in the online shop use the search tool- input “Paolo Bea”

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